IMG Pacific Northwest Update

July 9, 2021

Descending the Emmons Route (Nickel Wood)

The 2021 season has been full of surprises for us up here in the Pacific Northwest. From a snowy May, to a hot June, we have encountered it all. Teams have been maintaining our routes throughout blizzards and melts, and we are in the swing of things. This morning we had a successful summit from the Emmons route (pictured here), and the Disappointment Cleaver!

Sulphide Glacier

We are sending folks out the door to Baker, Shuksan, and Olympus in the next couple of days, and our team can hardly wait to keep exploring the wonderland that is Washington.

Spots are open on Baker and Shuksan for summer 2021, we would love to get you outside!

https://www.mountainguides.com/baker.shtml

Rainier Climbing Team On Top

Climbers depart the Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt Rainier (Photo by Justin Merle.)

Our Rainier climbing teams were able to summit over the weekend with one team lead by Timm Phillips summiting on Thursday and one team led by Kevin Kayl on summiting Saturday. Congratulations to all climbers on putting in the hard effort required to reach the top!

Denali Teams 6 & 7 on top!

June 30, 2021

L-R Foraker, Hunter, and Denali view from Talkeetna June 30 (TAT webcam)

We are happy to report that our last two IMG Denali teams for 2021 reached the summit yesterday and are now back to 17 Camp. Â Congrats to Andy Polloczek and Nicole Sims and their respective climbers and guides, they did a nice job with the Denali weather chess match.Â Â Today they will be descending back down the West Buttress to 14,000 Camp (and maybe further), and then on down the Kahlitna Glacer.Â Weâ€™ll keep you posted!

Eric Simonson

Denali Teams moving into position

June 28, 2021

Climbing on the West Buttress with Mt Foraker behind (Eric Simonson)

Nicole and her Team 6 moved up to 17 Camp yesterday, and are taking an active rest day today while working on the camp. Â Now, Â Andy and his Team 7 are moving up to 17K today.Â Weâ€™ll keep our fingers crossed on the weather.Â Hopefully the two teams can climb together to the summit!Â Meanwhile, back in Talkeetna Dallasâ€™ Team 5 flew off yesterday and are on their way to SEA today.

Eric Simonson

More Denali Summits

June 24, 2021

: The West Buttress Route from an airplane

: Hanging out at 14, how many quesadillas can you eat (Eric Simonson)

Our remaining three IMG Denali teams are each following a different strategy, to be flexible with the weather and their respective capabilities. Â Â Denali is currently getting hit by a weather system that is bringing snow and wind to the Alaska Range.Â Dallas and his Team 5 were feeling strong and moved to 17 Camp Tuesday, all reached the summit Wednesday, then descended back to 14 Camp to stay ahead of the weather.Â Nicole and her Team 6 decided to hold up at 14 Camp and take a few more days for acclimatization, before they move up to take their shot.Â Finally, Andy and the Team 7 moved up from 11 Camp yesterday, in order to get into 14 Camp before the wind and snow started.Â Now, all three teams are together at 14, hanging out waiting for the storm to dissipate, before continuing on their different strategies.Â Welcome to the Denali chess match.Â Allâ€™s well on The Great One!

Eric Simonson

Denali Weekend Update

Denali weekend update:

Mt Foraker at Sunrise (photo taken from 14,000ft)

Climbers travel across the lower Kahiltna (Eric Simonson)

Our Denali teams checked in and everyone is where they should be.Â Dallas and Nicoleâ€™s teams 5 & 6 are at 14,000 enjoying an active rest day with some training.Â Lower down, Andyâ€™s Team 7 made it safely to the Camp 1 at 7800 feet.Â Sounds like it got colder and clouded up overnight, with some snowfall, which made for well frozen conditions for glacier travel on the Lower Kahiltna.Â So far so good on Denali.

Eric Simonson

IMG Denali Team 7 on the way

June 18, 2021

IMG Denali Team 7 ready to go! (Andy Polloczek)

IMG leader Andy Polloczek reports that the food is packed, the duffels are stacked, and that Team 7 are set to fly!Â By now they should all be on the Kahiltna Glacier, ready to begin their chess match with Denali.Â Higher up on the hill leaders Dallas and Nicole report that their respective Teams 5&6 are doing well.Â They both took rest days at 11,000 feet yesterday after carrying their loads up around Windy Corner the day before.Â Today they are moving their camps up to 14,000 feet.Â Allâ€™s well on Denali!

Eric Simonson

IMG Denali teams enjoying good weather

June 15, 2021

The view down the Kahiltna from near 10,000 feet with Foraker and Kahiltna Dome on right (Eric Simonson)

IMG leaders Nicole Sims and Dallas Glass report that their respective teams are doing well, and have been making good progress. Â They have been moving at â€œnightâ€ which is a bit of a misnomer since it is never dark in Alaska this time of year.Â Their goal down low on the mountain is to move while the snow is firm and before the sun climbs above Denali and starts to cook. Â Both teams are now at the 9800 ft camp, heading up to 11,000 shortly.Â The weather on Denali recently has been good for climbers, with one more day expected before the next front comes in.Â So far so good on Denali!

Eric Simonson

IMG Denali Teams 5 & 6 on the way!

June 12, 2021

View from the airplane on the way to Denali (Dallas Glass)

IMG Denali Guides Nicole Sims and Dallas Glass checked in this morning to report the weather was good for flying today, and that their respective custom teams are ready to go.Â With Nicole Sims is Assistant guide Rowan Stewart, with Khai and Milind.Â With Dallas is Assistant guide Keith Rumburg, with Iulia, Delia, and Ross.Â Dallas sent a final picture from the airplane, as they headed for the Glacier. Â It looks like a great day for flying in Alaska!

: Nicole’s June 12 team ready to go (Nicole Sims)

: Dallas’ June 12 team ready to go (Dallas Glass)

Eric Simonson

Denali Reload

June 10, 2021

: The sign says it all (Eric Simonson)

: Talkeetna on the bank of the Susitna River with the Talkeetna River joining on the left (Eric Simonson)

Our IMG Denali Team 4 got flown out of Kahiltna Base Camp this morning after waiting two days for flyable weather. Â Â Now they are all back in Talkeetna getting their showers, packing up, and plotting their next move.Â That marks the end of our first wave of teams, and the beginning of the second wave.Â Today we have our IMGD Teams 5 & 6 heading up to Talkeetna to get in position to fly in to the mountain in the next couple days. Â Hopefully the weather will cooperate for them.Â So far so good on Denali!

Eric Simonson