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Busy Times at IMG!

Tuesday, March 10 2009

Things are starting to ramp up around IMG Headquarters these days…Photo by Ben Babusis (Inter Glacier Camp - Emmons Route)

  • Preparations for the Mt. Rainier season are well underway. Our new rental gear is coming in and looks great! The Eureka N!ergy Tents are in and will be a great value to our Rainier climbers this year. A $30 tent rental definitely beats $80 for a hotel room down the road! Oh and for those of you still looking to climb Rainier this year we still have some dates available in May, early June and September.
  • Our new Outdoor Research ‘guide gear’ has arrived with just enough time for embroidery before we send some of it with our guides to Everest and Cho Oyu later this month.
  • Final Everest preparations are underway with last minute food & supply shopping and final packing for transport to Kathmandu and eventually onto Everest Base Camp. Check out the release on March 3 (below) about the Discovery Channel featuring IMG’s Everest Expedition.
  • And climbers on our Mt. Whitney trips are getting a few more workouts in before their climbs in late March and into April. Note: we still have 3 spots available on our April 5-8 climb.

But busy days means happy climbers and that’s the business we’re in!

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Food… Everybody eats it, but what should I bring?

On most of our climbs we take care of your breakfast and dinners so all you’re in charge of is providing your lunch snacks throughout the day. Keep in mind that there is typically no actual sit-down lunch hour, unless you’re on one of our treks where lunch is incorporated into the daily schedule.

On our climbs we’re typically eating throughout the day… We always say that lunch takes place when breakfast ends and ends when dinner is served. With this in mind you should bring foods that are easy to snack on and don’t require a lot of assembly.

Ok so here’s the deal – don’t spend a ton of time counting the calories but +/- 1500 calories of personal food per day is about average for snack intake. Bringing foods that you are familiar with and enjoy is where your focus should be. Remember just because you’re in the mountains doesn’t mean you have to eat pounds of trail mix and bag after bag of almonds. Mix it up and bring foods you know you’ll eat, even if the altitude has temporarily stolen your appetite. Oh yeah – spoil yourself – adults like candy too! Keep “summit day” in mind… you’ll need some food that is easy to access and doesn’t freeze to the point that it’s not edible.

Check out what some of our guides like to eat when climbing.

Pictured above: IMG guides Aaron Mainer (left) and Eben Reckord (right) cooking dinner in the Weatherport at Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier.

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Discovery Channel To Feature IMG’s Everest Team

March 3, 2009

Our 2009 IMG Everest team just got a few new members. IMG Himalayan Director Eric Simonson, and a film team featuring IMG on Discovery Channel’s popular Everest TV series, will join the great group of climbers and trekkers already on board for IMG’s 2009 Everest expedition.  Since 1991 IMG has successfully supported 179 people from 14 countries to the summit of Everest, and we are looking forward to another great season on Everest.

The planning and preparations are already well under way. Ang Jangbu reports from Kathmandu that the first 3000kg of gear was sent last week by helicopter to Shyangboche.  The loads are now moving by yak toward Base Camp, where our Sherpa team has already started building our camp.

Stay tuned to the blog for more details…

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Gear Question of the Day: Do I have to wear Double Plastic Boots on Mt. Rainier?

We get this question a lot; and for good reason – your feet are pretty dang important to your survival on Mt. Rainier!

Below is our ‘boot policy’ for Mt. Rainier:

For a first time climb of Mt. Rainier, you want to be as well prepared as possible. That means warm, waterproof boots. Double plastic boots provide the best possible warmth for your feet, they are completely waterproof, and they don’t constrict your toes or ankles when worn with crampons attached. First time climbers will do well to choose double plastic boots, and IMG makes this simple by offering them for rent. We also strongly recommend double plastic boots in early summer (May and June) for all participants and we REQUIRE them on winter programs.

We’re happy to work with Asolo and rent the Evoluzione.

There are some very warm, insulated, waterproof synthetic or leather single climbing boots on the market these days. If you own a pair of single climbing boots (generally less than ten years old) and have used them successfully in cold weather environments previously, then single boots will probably work for you on Mt. Rainier.

Here are some of the requirements your boots must possess:

* Must be fully rigid or ¾ rigid shank soled.
* Must be factory treated waterproof leather or synthetic waterproof
* Must have synthetic insulation
* Must be crampon compatible

If you are thinking about purchasing any type of boot, remember, the BEST boot to buy is the one that fits your foot the best. Go to a good outfitter that has multiple models to try on. If you do not have a good climbing store near by, shop online through a knowledgeable climbing store with a good exchange policy. Ask for the store expert. If they do not have a boot fitting specialist, then go to another store. You will want to describe your foot, perhaps send in a tracing of it, describe the climbs you intend to use the boot on and be ready to order and return a couple of pair of boots in order to confirm the best possible fit. If you end up buying a boot that gives you blisters, get rid of it! Sell it on eBay and try again.

Summary:
When to use plastic boots:

* Early season (May and June) and winter
* If you are a First time climber, you should rent them.
* If you are a person with compromised circulation or a history of cold feet.

When to use single boots:

* If you own your own boots and have used them successfully in similar conditions to Mt. Rainier.
* During the peak summer season (July through September).
* If you have fit issues (very small, large, narrow or wide feet).

Late season suggestion:

If you are climbing in later season (after early August) it is often worth bringing a light pair of hiking or running shoes to wear on the first 2½ miles of the approach up to Pebble Creek. These are especially valuable on the way down if your feet are sore (or hot) in the double plastic boots.

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Eric Simonson Joins the Board of the American Alpine Club

IMG partner Eric Simonson was recently elected to the Board of the American Alpine Club.  IMG has been an AAC Industry Partner since 2005.

We support the mission of the American Alpine Club, which has been the voice for American climbers for over 100 years.  If you are a climber, you should consider joining the AAC!

The American Alpine Club promotes and preserves the climbing way of life.

We protect the places we climb, advocate for American climbers around the world, preserve climbing’s history and chronicle climbing achievement. The AAC’s ongoing commitment to inspiring and supporting climbers dates back to 1902, when the country’s leading climbers and conservationists banded together to form the Club.


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When is the best time to climb Mt. Rainier?

This is good and very popular question!

We start guiding the “summer season” in May and guide Rainier through the end of September. That said, the conditions on the mountain change throughout the season. Below is a quick look at how it shakes out… Remember there are pros and cons to climbing at any time of the year!

May/June
This is still early in the season.  When the weather’s good, these are incredible months to climb Rainier.  The mountain is typically at its pristine best, snow covered and beautiful.  The route tends to be more direct and number of other climbers is lower than the peak months of July and August.

July/August
This is the peak Rainier climbing season.  Though weather can prevent an ascent at any time of year, the odds of good weather are certainly the best during these months.  Number of other climbers is at its peak.  As the season progresses, the route tends to get a bit more circuitous.

September
After Labor Day, number of climbs on Rainier diminishes.  That’s a big selling point for September climbs.  Plus, potential climbers have had the summer season to get in the best shape of their lives.  We often get periods of very nice weather in September.  We normally don’t encounter any snow prior to Pebble Creek, at 7,200 ft., on the Muir approach.  The snow is typically firmer on the upper mountain.

Happy climbers on the summit of Mt. Rainier (Andy Polloczek)

Happy climbers on the summit of Mt. Rainier (Andy Polloczek)

 

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Gear Question Of The Day: What are Soft-shell pants, and why do I need them?

Soft-shell pants are made of high-performance synthetic fabrics that are resistant to abrasions & tears. They hold up extremely well to mountain abuse. They are typically water-resistant (not water proof) which means they are breathable and shed light rain and snow and dry quickly when they get wet.

The question:  Are they required or will my ski pants, fleece pants or other synthetic pants work? Should they be insulated?

The answer: No they are not required, but strongly encouraged. Fleece pants or a combination of other synthetic pants or ski pants will definitely work. The big differences being efficiency, comfort, breathability and weight. Soft-shell pants should not be insulated. The flexibility of wearing or not wearing long-underwear makes insulation unnecessary.

The bottom line is you will spend every minute of your climb in these pants so comfort is key. Soft-shell pants are a must have for any serious climber!

Our guides wear the Outdoor Research Exos Pants and love em!
Stay tuned for more gear questions answered…

-Tye

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Upcoming Speaking Engagements with Phil Ershler and George Dunn

International Mountain Guides Partners George Dunn and Phil Ershler will be speaking at a couple different REI’s this week.

The talks will be geared towards climbing Mt. Rainier…which as you might know George and Phil know a little bit about. George has more summits of Mt. Rainier than anybody in the world having reached the summit 495 times and Phil is second in the world with 435. They are the only 2 members of the 400 Club on Mt. Rainer!

George first summited “The Mountain” in 1969 with Phil reaching the top two years later in 1971.

You’ll find Phil at the Seattle REI (directions) on Tuesday, Feb. 24 and George at the Southcener REI (directions) on Wednesday, Feb. 25. Both events begin at 7pm.

Phil Ershler on Summit of Everest

IMG Partner belaying in Leavenworth, WA

REI Rainier Prep Talks
Date                                          Time     REI Location     Speaker
Tuesday, February 24                 7pm       Seattle                 Phil Ershler
Wednesday, February 25            7pm       Southcenter         George Dunn
Tuesday, March 10                     7pm       Issaquah              George Dunn
Thursday, March 19                    7pm       Redmond            Phil Ershler
Wednesday, March 25                7pm       Tacoma         IMG Guide Jason Edwards

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Mt. Rainier Winter Seminar Descends

What a beautiful day on the mountain! Our 6-day Winter Seminar wrapped up their trip with an excellent walk down to Paradise today.
Not a bad way to start the day! Big packs!

It was such a nice day that IMG Partner Eric Simonson and I set out early this morning to meet them on the Muir Snowfield. We bumped into them above Panarama Point, turned and descended with them. The big difference – Eric was on skis!

Either way everybody was happy to get down to the van and the awaiting ice cold Cokes!

Eric Simonson enjoying the ride.

-Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Mt. Rainier Winter Seminar Update

Thursday, Feb. 19

Lead Guide Greg Vernovage radioed in this morning from Camp Muir. The Winter Seminar group has had some great weather above the clouds and it looks like that continues today…

Greg and fellow guide Aaron Mainer didn’t feel comfortable crossing the Cowlitz Glacier this morning due to avalanche concerns so the team will take a walk up towards the Beehive and Gibralter Rock to stretch the legs then work on some fixed line skills.

Photo courtesy of Adam Angel.

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