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When is the best time to climb Mt. Rainier?

This is good and very popular question!

We start guiding the “summer season” in May and guide Rainier through the end of September. That said, the conditions on the mountain change throughout the season. Below is a quick look at how it shakes out… Remember there are pros and cons to climbing at any time of the year!

May/June
This is still early in the season.  When the weather’s good, these are incredible months to climb Rainier.  The mountain is typically at its pristine best, snow covered and beautiful.  The route tends to be more direct and number of other climbers is lower than the peak months of July and August.

July/August
This is the peak Rainier climbing season.  Though weather can prevent an ascent at any time of year, the odds of good weather are certainly the best during these months.  Number of other climbers is at its peak.  As the season progresses, the route tends to get a bit more circuitous.

September
After Labor Day, number of climbs on Rainier diminishes.  That’s a big selling point for September climbs.  Plus, potential climbers have had the summer season to get in the best shape of their lives.  We often get periods of very nice weather in September.  We normally don’t encounter any snow prior to Pebble Creek, at 7,200 ft., on the Muir approach.  The snow is typically firmer on the upper mountain.

Happy climbers on the summit of Mt. Rainier (Andy Polloczek)

Happy climbers on the summit of Mt. Rainier (Andy Polloczek)

 

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Gear Question Of The Day: What are Soft-shell pants, and why do I need them?

Soft-shell pants are made of high-performance synthetic fabrics that are resistant to abrasions & tears. They hold up extremely well to mountain abuse. They are typically water-resistant (not water proof) which means they are breathable and shed light rain and snow and dry quickly when they get wet.

The question:  Are they required or will my ski pants, fleece pants or other synthetic pants work? Should they be insulated?

The answer: No they are not required, but strongly encouraged. Fleece pants or a combination of other synthetic pants or ski pants will definitely work. The big differences being efficiency, comfort, breathability and weight. Soft-shell pants should not be insulated. The flexibility of wearing or not wearing long-underwear makes insulation unnecessary.

The bottom line is you will spend every minute of your climb in these pants so comfort is key. Soft-shell pants are a must have for any serious climber!

Our guides wear the Outdoor Research Exos Pants and love em!
Stay tuned for more gear questions answered…

-Tye

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Upcoming Speaking Engagements with Phil Ershler and George Dunn

International Mountain Guides Partners George Dunn and Phil Ershler will be speaking at a couple different REI’s this week.

The talks will be geared towards climbing Mt. Rainier…which as you might know George and Phil know a little bit about. George has more summits of Mt. Rainier than anybody in the world having reached the summit 495 times and Phil is second in the world with 435. They are the only 2 members of the 400 Club on Mt. Rainer!

George first summited “The Mountain” in 1969 with Phil reaching the top two years later in 1971.

You’ll find Phil at the Seattle REI (directions) on Tuesday, Feb. 24 and George at the Southcener REI (directions) on Wednesday, Feb. 25. Both events begin at 7pm.

Phil Ershler on Summit of Everest

IMG Partner belaying in Leavenworth, WA

REI Rainier Prep Talks
Date                                          Time     REI Location     Speaker
Tuesday, February 24                 7pm       Seattle                 Phil Ershler
Wednesday, February 25            7pm       Southcenter         George Dunn
Tuesday, March 10                     7pm       Issaquah              George Dunn
Thursday, March 19                    7pm       Redmond            Phil Ershler
Wednesday, March 25                7pm       Tacoma         IMG Guide Jason Edwards

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Mt. Rainier Winter Seminar Descends

What a beautiful day on the mountain! Our 6-day Winter Seminar wrapped up their trip with an excellent walk down to Paradise today.
Not a bad way to start the day! Big packs!

It was such a nice day that IMG Partner Eric Simonson and I set out early this morning to meet them on the Muir Snowfield. We bumped into them above Panarama Point, turned and descended with them. The big difference – Eric was on skis!

Either way everybody was happy to get down to the van and the awaiting ice cold Cokes!

Eric Simonson enjoying the ride.

-Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Mt. Rainier Winter Seminar Update

Thursday, Feb. 19

Lead Guide Greg Vernovage radioed in this morning from Camp Muir. The Winter Seminar group has had some great weather above the clouds and it looks like that continues today…

Greg and fellow guide Aaron Mainer didn’t feel comfortable crossing the Cowlitz Glacier this morning due to avalanche concerns so the team will take a walk up towards the Beehive and Gibralter Rock to stretch the legs then work on some fixed line skills.

Photo courtesy of Adam Angel.

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Aconcagua Update and Summary

Wednesday, Feb. 18

Everyone is back in Mendoza.  Flights are being changed, the group is celebrating and even trying to squeeze in a wine tour before leaving.  The two days following IMG’s summit day were bad.  Looks like the mountain gods let us squeeze one in.  The team did a great job of putting themselves in position to take advantage of the opportunity which was presented.  I think that’s the definition of luck.

IMG signing off.  Another safe, successful and enjoyable Aconcagua season completed.

Phil Ershler

Aconcagua

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Kilimanjaro Summits #1 & #2 of 2009

Tuesday, Feb. 17

IMG Senior Guide Craig John notched his 18th and 19th summits of Kilimanjaro over the last few weeks, with successful climbs to the Roof of Africa as the leader of our January and February teams.  Our January group put 11 of 12 on Uhuru and the February group put 10 of 10 on Uhuru (the true summit).

After the climbs, the teams enjoy 4 days/3 nights of safari action, with the annual Migration in full swing in the Serengeti, before transferring back to Arusha (JRO airport) for the flights home to winter!  Congrats to CJ and the IMG climbers for their successful ascents!

Photos courtsey of Adam Angel

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Our New Blog…

February 4, 2009

Welcome to our new blog!

As you may know International Mountain Guides directors Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Eric Simonson and Paul Baugher organize and lead climbing, trekking and mountaineering expeditions around the world, from the classic climbs of the Alps and Andes to the 8,000m peaks of the Himalayas. IMG continues to be one of the most respected and active guiding companies in the world. We wanted to put this blog together to share what is going on in our world with all or our friends. Some fun things you’ll find on our blog:

  • Dispatches from all around the world. From right here at Mt. Rainier to the Himalayas of Nepal.
  • Photos and videos of our climbs as they become available.
  • Notes from IMG owners: Phil Ershler, Eric Simonson, George Dunn and Paul Baugher
  • Trip reports from our worldwide expeditions

A couple of things you won’t find on our blog:

  • Out of respect for our climbers we will not post the names of individuals on our climbs.
  • We will not post any rescue/emergency information or updates of any kind.

Enjoy!

IMG Team
Our Office.

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