IMG blog
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Vimeo
  • YouTube
  • RSS
  • Blog Home
  • IMG Home
  • Mt. Rainier
    • Mt. Rainier Climbs Schedule
    • Winter Ski & Avalanche Training
  • Expeditions
    • IMG Expeditions Filter
    • Seven Summits
    • Trip Reports
    • Client Comments
  • Newsletter Sign-up
  • Contact Us

Bona Team Summits!

June 9, 2009

Below is a recap of the trip:

The group arrived at Camp 1 on schedule and spent a good night there on June 3.

On June 4 the guides scouted the route up to Camp 2 at 14,000 feet while the team took a well deserved rest day.

On June 5 the team moved up to 14,000 feet in deteriorating weather but established a very secure camp with an exposed serac wall (a vertical chunk of ice) providing good wind protection.

IMG Stock Photo

The weather turned out to be good on June 6 so four of the team members elected to go for the summit with the two guides Mark Allen and Eric Stevenson. The four team members and two guides made the summit, 16,400 feet, and returned to high camp tired but happy.

On June 7 guide Mark Allen summited for a second time with the two remaining team members. They made it back down to high camp safely.

The rest of the team had considered climbing nearby Mt. Churchill on June 7 since they had the extra day, but after the Bona climb they decided that one summit was good enough and instead took the day off.

Mark Allen called in this morning at 8:30 a.m. today, June 8, and says the entire team will descend this morning all the way back to the landing site. They will be down at Base Camp by 4:00 pm and hopeful of a pickup by the bush pilot at his earliest convenience. Optimal would be June 9 in the morning, but it will be conditions and weather dependent.

JUNE 9 UPDATE: I received a call from the team at Mt. Bona Base Camp at 6:30 a.m. Alaska time. The winds are calm with unlimited visibility. The group all arrived safely last night.

I contacted the bush pilot and he is in the air.

This was a remarkable ascent of Mt. Bona, I have rarely seen a smoother climb!

That’s all for now, my congratulations to the team!

George Dunn

Read More

Rainier Team Summits…Route Moves Off Direct To DC

June 6, 2009

As expected the early season route up the Ingraham Direct has shifted to the standard summer route on the Disappointment Cleaver. IMG Guides Eben Reckord and Mike Haft spent some time shoveling out the route to the nose of the cleaver last week and our team this morning reported that the route is in good shape! Great news!

We had 100% on top this morning – nice work team!

**On a different note IMG Partners Phil Ershler and George Dunn are up above Paradise today with close to 20 Boy Scouts doing some volunteer work. The Scouts are helping shovel out the summer hiking route above Paradise near Pan Point. This will help avoid any harm to vegetation accidentally caused when hiker punch through the shallow slushy snow. By shoveling out the trail all hikers will be able to see and stay on the trails that are well defined when not buried in a winter’s snow.Good stuff!

The Scouts will also spend some time learning some mountaineering fundamentals from both Phil and George… Who better to learn from than from #1 and #2 on the Most Rainier Summits List (George Dunn 495, Phil Ershler 435)?

Thanks to the Scouts for their help this year!!

Read More

IMG Mt. Bona Update #1

IMG Guide Mark Allen called in late last night. The group met and organized on Saturday in Anchorage, then breezed through the 4-5 hour drive to Chitina on Sunday. Rather than spend the night at the bush pilot’s lodge on the Chitina River, bush pilot Paul Claus was able to fly the group directly on to the Klutlan Glacier at 10,500 feet at the base of Mt. Bona in his turbo Otter.This is a broad, gentle landing area on the Klutlan Glacier and the normal site for base camp.

Mark reported perfect weather, no wind and a very happy group at camp last evening. They will rest, acclimatize and do some low exertion training today. Mark will consider making a group carry to the next camp at 12,000 feet tomorrow. The group will spend at least a second night at base camp before moving up to occupy the 12,000 foot camp.
We’ll pass on more details as they comes in…

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Read More

IMG Guides Summit Lib Ridge

May 31, 2009

Earlier this week IMG Guides Erica Engle, Eric Gullickson, Austin Shannon and Brian Warren summitted Mt. Rainier via Liberty Ridge…

About Liberty Ridge:

Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier is a very serious, technically difficult and physically demanding ascent that is reserved for strong climbers with prior climbing experience. The route is a prominent ridge that divides the Willis and Liberty Walls on the North Face of

Mt. Rainier. It is steep, exposed, and committing. The program begins at our facilities in Ashford but we shuttle the team around to the northern side of the mountain and the White River entrance for the start of the climb. The approach to this route is long and fairly involved, and circumnavigates part of Mt. Rainier on its north-eastern flank. We climb the route using two or more camps as we progress to successively higher altitudes. Technical difficulties start at the base of the ridge, 8,600ft and end at Liberty Cap, 14,112 ft. The climb ends with a long trudge across a saddle to the true summit, Columbia Crest, 14,411ft. We carry our gear up and over the top with us and descend the technically easier Emmons Glacier route and back out via the White River entrance. Four days are the minimum time required to complete the climb, but we offer a 5½ day program that allows for an extra summit day.

Tune up your skills and join us on one of our Lib Ridge climbs in 2010.

More Info On Lib Ridge

—–

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Read More

Winds Calmed For Another Rainier Summit

We had 100% on top this morning! The group just pulled into IMG HQ and reported that it was pretty windy on top today but not windy enough to stop them. They summitted around 6:15am and promptly turned around and headed back down to camp. The route continues on the Ingraham Direct for now.

Our next group of climbers is pulling into Muir right now and reporting a significant lenticular cloud building – looks like it’ll continue to be windy up high and nice and warm down low. They’re scheduled to move to the Flats tomorrow and try to summit early on Sunday…so… fingers crossed.

Summit Crater

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Read More

Too Windy Up High!

May 28, 2009

Well it was just too windy on the upper mountain for our last Rainier climb. The group got up to about 12,500ft and conditions were not improving so the guides made the safe decision and turned around. They all returned safely to Camp Muir in good spirits and cruised on down to Paradise yesterday afternoon.

Looks like the forecast calls for improving weather which is great for our climbers up at Camp Muir now. They plan on moving up to ‘The Flats’ after their morning training session today.Summit day will be early tomorrow morning so we’ll keep you posted…

—-

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Read More

Mt. Rainier ‘Summer’ Climbs Underway!

With 10 of 12 on top yesterday Lead Guide Eben Reckord & Co. logged our first “Summer” summit of the season. Nice work everybody!

Climbs will continue all summer long with 3-day climbs coming through IMG HQ every other day!

Weather has been uncharacteristically warm on Mt. Rainier these past few days which made for some great climbing weather over the holiday weekend. Fingers crossed it holds for the next… 4 months!

Currently our climbers up at Camp Muir report some windy conditions so we’ll see how that develops through the day and over the night…

It’s climbing season!!

—–

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Read More

Heli-lift To Camp Muir Today

May 21, 2009
Each year Mt. Rainier National Park coordinates a helicopter lift to the various camps on Mt. Rainier each year… We work with them to get a couple loads lifted to Camp Muir.

This year we sent up several hundred pounds of propane which is used to cook meals and melt water at Camp Muir. We also sent some new ‘5th Season’ Eureka Tents which will be used at “The Flats” on our 3-day climbs.

Pretty cool stuff! 

A big thanks to the Mt. Rainier National Park for continuing to allow us to send loads up to Camp Muir!

—

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Read More

Everest Summit Bids Underway…

Teams on the move… for full coverage click the photo below…

Read More

Guide Training – Day 2

May 18, 2009
So the guides wrapped up their second day of training on Mt. Rainier last week by practicing some Kautz systems.

They enjoyed the training (in less than ideal conditions) on some route specific tools and techniques and learned a few different, and possibly more efficient, ways of doing things. Some time was also spent on problem solving a few different situations that the guides might find themselves in – some great conversation spun from this!

A big thank you to John Race, Olivia Cussen and Jeff Ward for their work on this year’s guide training…

Up Next: The NPS Helicopter Flight to Muir (weather dependent),  and the Wilderness First Responder Course (refresher) this weekend… Our 3.5 day summit climbs start this week too – so I guess it is officially climbing season!!

On a separate note: if you haven’t been keeping up with our Everest Climb it’s time to start checking in daily… The summit teams are making their way up the mountain!

That’s all for now…

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Read More
«‹449450451452453›»

Archives

Categories

© 1998- International Mountain Guides. All rights reserved.