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Bona Team Carried to Camp 1

May 25, 2010

Mark Allen called in from Camp 1 at 12,080 feet at 12:15pm Alaska time

The group made a carry  of supplies up to Camp 1 today from Base Camp at the landing site. They have had a couple of minor precipitation storms since arriving, but in general the weather has been good.

Today’s carry was not without adventure, as both of the guides (at different times) dropped into crevasses on the way up. The good practice that the team put in on crevasse rescue the day before paid off. Mark says they have the route well marked now and it will be easier from now on.

The group has awesome views of the surrounding mountains from their vantage point at their new camp.

They’ll head back down to base camp shortly; the current plan is to move up to Camp 1 tomorrow if all are feeling well and conditions are good.

George Dunn

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Bona Team Lands At Base Camp

May 24, 2010

IMG Guide Mark Allen called in from Bona base camp.

The group was flown in yesterday without event, and are now spending a day or two acclimatizing and establishing a good, well protected base camp. Mark says they have switched to a nocturnal schedule and will go to bed at noon today and get up again after an 8 hour rest. It is just too warm currently on the lower glacier to work in full sun.

The group will build good walls around camp in anticipation of future bad weather, do some group training and then hope to do a first carry tomorrow or the next day as they are able. All are in good spirits and feeling healthy.

They’ll check back in after their first carry.

George Dunn

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Mt. Bona Trip Getting Started

May 23, 2010

The Mt. Bona Expedition group met as a team for the first time on Saturday May 22 in Anchorage. They did a final gear check, went over group supplies and had a team meeting. They finished with a final dinner in downtown Anchorage, then called it an early night.

The plan is to depart Anchorage at 6am, do the 4 ½ hour drive to Chitina, and meet the bush pilot at the Chitina airstrip for the flight in to Mt. Bona on the 23rd.  If weather prevents this, the alternate plan is to overnight at the airstrip in tents, or fly in to the bush pilot’s lodge, a 45 minute flight up the Chitina River.

George Dunn

Also:

Summit Season On Everest!

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Everest Climbers On The Move

May 20, 2010

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A Tough Day

May 18, 2010

I just spoke with IMG Guide Mark Allen who’s team kicked off our “summer” season on Mt. Rainier today in some harsh conditions.  The good news is that even with the less than ideal conditions (low visibility, snowing, and windy) the team pulled into Camp Muir this afternoon in good form with big smiles.  On tap tonight: hot drinks and pulled pork tacos and rest!

Tomorrow they’ll have a training session in the morning before heading up to the Ingraham Flats should conditions allow…

Tye Chapman

NOTE:  It’s summit season on Everest – check for daily updates here.

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Cho Oyu Team Summits!

May 17, 2010

IMG leader Eric Remza called on the sat phone from Camp 1 with some more information on their Cho Oyu summit climb today.  The climbers left Camp 3 at 2am and reached the summit 26899 ft (8201m) at 8am.  For our head sherpa, Panuru, it was his 12th ascent of Cho Oyu and he said it was the most difficult Cho Oyu climb he had done.  It sounds like there was a lot of exposed rock above the Yellow Band which made for added difficulty.

Remza said the wind was not too bad for their ascent, but it was very cold.  He said that shortly after their summit the weather started to close in again and it deteriorated during the day as they descended.  On the way down the Sherpas pulled Camp 3 and then after a good rest at Camp 2, they were able to pull Camp 2 and descend to Camp 1 where they are now resting comfortably.  So, all’s well and the team should be back to ABC tomorrow.  Congrats to the climbers and Sherpas on a safe and successful summit day!

Eric Simonson

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Sherpa Trek Arrives In Lobuche

May 13, 2010

Our IMG Sherpa Trek team, led by Phu Tashi, has now reached Lobuche and everyone is doing well.  Jangbu hiked down to Lobuche today to meet the group.  They have had a good trek up the Khumbu, including several days staying in Phu Tashi’s lodge with his family in Dingboche.  Their current plan is to see how they feel tomorrow, and then maybe stay another night at Lobuche if there are headaches.  Otherwise, they will go up to Gorak Shep.  The plan is for them to spend a couple days with the team at Base Camp before they head back down the valley.  So far everything is going well on the mountain.  Justin reports that several other groups moved up to Camp 2 today, in hopes of taking advantage of a small weather window forecasted for the 16th and 17th.

Over in Tibet, our IMG Cho Oyu team is also preparing to move up to Camp 1 tomorrow for their summit bid, also hoping to hit this projected window.  The IMG Everest climbers went for a good hike today to Pumori Camp 1, however, they are going to hold tight a bit longer, waiting for a better long term forecast before launching their summit bids.

Eric Simonson

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Cho Oyu Team Takes A Field Trip

May 11, 2010

Hello to everyone following along IMG’s 2010 Spring Cho Oyu Expedition. We are all back in Advanced Base Camp (ABC) and everyone is doing well. We had a nice field trip down to the lower thick air elevations but overall it feels great to be home here at ABC. We had a nice couple days visiting the town of Shegar, plenty of hot showers, internet, and Chinese food for everyone. The highlight of the trip was visiting the Crystal Fort Monastery, which is built into the rocky ridgelines overlooking the town. We were able to hike to the very top of the Fort which made for a nice 1000ft jaunt, and a couple of the local kids accompanied us as our “guides.”

The following day we left Shegar early in the morning for our 108km drive to Everest Base Camp, and we had some stellar views along the way of Cho Oyu and Mount Everest. (Full Dispatch Here).

Eric Remza

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A Quick Ski Tour After Work

May 7, 2010

After several days of some pretty miserable weather here in Ashford the clouds finally parted long enough for guides Tyler Gimenez and Austin Shannon along with myself and apprentice guide Dan Zokaites to grab some skis and head into Mt. Rainier National Park for a quick “after work ski tour”.

At Paradise with skins and skis on by 7:00pm we made our way to the base of Panorama Point and called it our “high point”  for the evening. Several reasons led to this decision – snow stability, darkness and general competence on skis – for me and Tyler anyways.

After a quick snack and some much needed pointers from Austin and Dan, we made our way down to the parking lot, some quicker and more graceful than others… Nevertheless we all had fun and got a dose of some much needed Vitamin D!

Tye Chapman

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Gear Question Of The Day: Does my down jacket need a hood?

May 6, 2010

The short answer is yes.

The long answer is:  if you have a good hat system (wool hat, balaclava, and a buff) you can get by without it on Mt. Rainier. But go anywhere else outside of Mt. Rainier (Aconcagua, Ecuador, Kili, Bona, Denali, etc.) and you’ll absolutely need a hood. My advice: buy it once and buy it right.

Over the years we’ve had a couple different guide issue “parkas” a.k.a.”puffys” and they’ve been great:

Outdoor Resarch Chaos: This is our rental parka and it’s been bombproof for us 3 years running now! Waterproof and synthetic fill = great for the Pacific Northwest climate. Check out the fancy IMG Custom Embroidery.

Outdoor Research Virtuoso – A great summer Rainier jacket. 650-fill down = light and warm! The fully insulated hood is a great touch. Our guides lived in this jacket last summer.

That’s all for now.

Tye Chapman

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