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Cho Oyu Climbers Reach ABC

September 4, 2010

Mike Hamill reports by sat phone that the team all made it up to ABC in good shape and that everyone is doing well.  The IMG Sherpas did a great job getting the camp set up and all the yaks up there with the gear, so everything was looking good for the arrival of the climbers.  Cho Oyu ABC is quite high, at nearly 18,500 feet, so one thousand feet higher than Everest Base Camp.  That is why it was super important for them to move up there slowly, with lots of acclimatization hiking along the way.

The team will now do their puja at ABC,  the sherpa blessing ceremony that which marks the traditional beginning of the climbing.  Then, over the next few days, the Sherpas will start working on putting in Camp 1 and the climbers will continue their acclimatization with several day trips up toward Camp 1, before they move up there for overnight.

So far so good!!

Eric Simonson

Cho Oyu ABC
Cho Oyu Advanced Base Camp

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A Special Message From Kilimanjaro

September 4, 2010

The breach wall on Kilimanjaro.

Olivia called in from Barancco Camp this morning to relay a special hello to all the kids of the Kili climbers… A big “hello and I love you” to: Alexander, David, Emory, Elizabeth, Jack, Harrison, Windham, Katherine, Evans, Luke, Mary Ellis, and Madelyn!

All is well at camp. They made good time today and have a shorter day to Karanga Valley Camp tomorrow which they’re all looking forward to. The good news about tomorrow is they’ll cross the Breach Wall (a bit of pretty steep scrambling in a few places) and traverse below the Southern Glaciers. This is typically the favorite day on the approach, with great scenery and rugged hiking.

All is well…

Tye Chapman

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Kili Team Moves to Shira Camp

September 3, 2010

A little rain didn’t stop our Kili team from enjoying their move from Machame Camp to the Shira Plateau Camp.  The rain has since passed which makes for a nice crisp & clear evening for the team rest and recover. Tomorrow they move to up to 14,500ft before dropping down to Barancco Camp at 13,000ft.

SPOT location of IMG Kilimanjaro Team

All is well.

Tye Chapman

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Cho Oyu climbers on the move to ABC

September 3, 2010

Mike Hamill reports by sat phone that the climbers had a good night at Interim Camp (IC) and now they are on the way to Advanced Base Camp.  Everyone is doing well, the weather remains good,  and they expect to reach ABC later today.  Interim Camp, as the name suggests, is only used for one night.  Situated on the east lateral moraine of the Gyabrag Glacier, it has a good water source and space for camping.  In recent years the Chinese have built a rough jeep road all the way to IC which is useful for emergency evacuation, but our climbers are walking from Base Camp. After all, they are trying to get acclimatized!   The yak drivers will also stay there and go up to ABC and back tomorrow,  so they don’t have to haul extra yak food up to ABC.

Eric Simonson

Ang Passang negotiating yak loads
Yak teams heading to Intermediate Camp
Intermediate Camp

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Kili Team At Machame Camp

September 2, 2010

Kili team at Machame Camp

IMG Guide Olivia Cussen, one of the few IFMGA fully certified guides here in the US, called in again this morning to report that all is well on Kilimanjaro. The group knocked out 4000 vertical feet of trail yesterday, one if the harder days on the mountain, so it’s great to have that behind them while they continue to acclimatize to the higher elevations.

They’re at the Machame Camp now; tomorrow they’ll move through the “zone of weird plants” which are native to the high mountains of Africa en route to the Shira Plateau (12,000) where they’ll make camp.

All is well…

Tye Chapman

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Kili Team Ready To Go

September 1, 2010

IMG Guide Olivia Cussen called in from the Keys Hotel in Moshi, Tanzania to report that all is well. The team arrived on schedule and have already knocked out their equipment check. They’ll enjoy a nice dinner this evening (they’re +10 hours from us here in PST) before leaving the hotel tomorrow morning at 7:30 to start their journey to the top of Africa.

Tye Chapman

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Torment-Forbidden Traverse Trip Report

August 31, 2010

IMG Guide Justin Merle

Torment-Forbidden Traverse Panarama. (Photo by Justin Merle)

On August 16th I met Ari and Brook in the town of Marblemount to prepare for 4 days of challenging alpine climbing.  Looking at the great weather forecast, we pared down our gear to make our packs as light as possible.  Our objective was to climb Mount Torment, then traverse the mile long alpine ridge to Forbidden Peak.  The route involves a lot of 4th and low 5th class climbing in an awe-inspiring alpine setting.  We planned to spend at least one night and possibly a second on the ridge.

After sorting out our gear we drove to the trailhead, enjoying the great views of Mount Johannesburg across the valley.  The trail gave us a taste of the classic North Cascades approach.  Below treeline the vegetation was abundant, and the trail was slightly overgrown—at times it felt like we were walking through a tunnel.

After spending a night in Boston Basin, we started our climb toward Torment, over glacial moraine, polished granite slabs, and finally the Taboo glacier.  Our route on the South Ridge of Torment involved several hours of climbing over varied terrain: solid rock, 4th class heather, and some loose climbing.  As we reached the summit of Torment, we saw the spectacular views to the north that would accompany us for the rest of the traverse—turquoise lakes in the remote Thunder River drainage, broken glaciers and icefalls, and of course, the knife-edge ridge connecting Torment to Forbidden Peak.  A bit of descending brought us to an exciting rappel across a gaping bergschrund to the north side glacier, after which we decided to bivy.

Torment – Forbidden Traverse. (Photo by Justin Merle)

We started early the following day, traversing the snow until we could regain the rock farther east.  Fun, blocky, 5th class climbing took us back to the ridge crest, where we climbed for the bulk of the rest of the day, opting to take the more challenging climbing over some easier options to the south of the ridge.  The climbing was exposed, fun, and physical.  The weather was perfect.  Rather than trying to cram it all in to the one day, we bivied again at the start of the West Ridge of Forbidden, saving this classic climb for the final day.

We woke with the dawn to a cooler and windier day—ominous lenticular clouds would build over the peaks, then disappear.  The weather was still good, but we wore all our clothing to stay warm as we climbed.  The climb to the summit of Forbidden was the perfect way to end—great climbing on more solid rock to the summit of one of the more sought after peaks in the Cascade Range.  After a few hours of descent, we were back in lower basin where it was warmer.  We were tired, but psyched to have completed the Traverse—three full days of fun and challenging climbing.  Like horses to the barn we scrambled down the trail toward burgers and beer.

Thanks for a great climb guys!

-Justin

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All Is Well At Base Camp (15,500ft)

August 31, 2010

Loading a yak - what a view!

Mike Hamill reports from Cho Oyu BC at about 15,500 feet that everyone is doing very well. Today the team took another acclimatization hike and the Sherpas continued to pack up yak loads and get ready to move to Advanced Base Camp (ABC).  Later in the afternoon they had some rain with some fresh snow on the higher hills above camp.  Overall, however, the weather is quite good on the Tibet side of the range (unlike Nepal where the monsoon is still going strong).

IMG Sherpas Mingma Tenzing, Mingma Dorje, and Nima Karma and the Tibetan yak drivers made it up to ABC with 30 yaks today and are working to get that camp established.  Each yak can carry about 60 kg (in the autumn season, when they are strong from summer grazing) with one 30kg load on each side.  Tomorrow the yaks will come back down to Base Camp and then the next day (Sep 2) the members and remaining Sherpas will move to Interim Camp (IC), and then to ABC the following day.

Eric

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Cho Oyu Climbers Reach Base Camp

August 30, 2010

Yak drivers dividing loads.

IMG Cho Oyu team leader Mike Hamill reports by sat phone from Cho Oyu Base Camp that the team is doing well and the base camp is looking good after the Sherpas went ahead and got it established. After travelling halfway around the world the team is all looking forward to spending a few days at BC relaxing, acclimatizing, and getting organized.

Mike says that it rained last night and today it is clear, with fresh snow on the hills above BC.   They are doing an acclimatization hike today.   Tomorrow the yak drivers will start hauling loads up to ABC with the Sherpas so that camp will be all ready to go in a few days when the climbers move up.  The only other climbers currently on Cho Oyu are a large Chinese expedition.

So far so good!

Eric Simonson

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Cho Oyu Climbers Reach Tingri

August 28, 2010

Tingri with Cho Oyu in the background.

Mike Hamill reports that the team had two good acclimatization nights in Nyalam with a nice hike yesterday.  Weather is good.  Today the climbers reached Tingri (over 14,000 feet) and the Sherpas continued on and have now established the Base Camp.  Other than a few small headaches, the team continue to acclimatize well. After two nights in Tingri and some more acclimatization hiking, the team will head for Base Camp.

Eric Simonson

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