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Cho Oyu Weather Update

September 18, 2010

IMG Leader Mike Hamill reports that the weather has improved a bit and the TMA team got the injured Tibetan climber out last night and he is stable with just a broken rib.  We are hoping to get some climbers back up to finish the fixing above C3 once the slopes have stabilized from the recent snowfall.  Mike says that if the weather and conditions continue to improve, the IMG team is on track to launch their summit bid in the next few days.  Our weather forecaster Michael Fagin at http://www.everestweather.com reports that there is still a lot of moisture associated with the monsoon to the south, in Nepal, and we are still getting weak pulses of moisture pushing up from this weather system.  Hopefully the winds will keep shifting more to westerly, which will cut off the moisture flow and dry things out for the climbers.  We’ll keep you posted!

Eric Simonson

Photo from Government of Nepal Meteorological Forecasting Division for Sept 18, 2010

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Perfect Weather As Kili Team Reaches Barranco

September 17, 2010

Phil called in at 8:30am (PST)

More of the same, another good day today and the weather is still great!  We’re at Barranco at 13,000’ the group is all doing well.  Today was a 6 ½ hour day; a bit of up and down.  Tomorrow we’ll cross the Breach Wall, a fun little scramble.  The group will then overnight at Karanga Valley at 13,000’.  All’s well and we’ll check in again tomorrow evening from camp.

Phil

Barranco Camp at 13,000' on Kilimanjaro

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Cho Oyu Update – Snowy Conditions

September 17, 2010

Cho Oyu Advanced Base Camp, 18,500'

IMG leader Mike Hamill reports from ABC that the weather at Cho Oyu is bad today, with wind and snowfall.  Our team members are at ABC hanging out, where there has not been too much accumulation of snow.  Mike reports that several of the TMA climbers were trying to fix in the Yellow Band above C3 this morning (Tibet time) and were caught in an avalanche and injured.  They are currently being evacuated, and we’ll keep our fingers crossed for them.

Eric Simonson

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Cho Oyu Climbers Finish Camp 2 Rotation

September 16, 2010

Cho Oyu with climbing route visible in the snow.

Mike Hamill reports: “The team has now returned to ABC from a successful acclimatization rotation to C2. The weather has been excellent but after returning the wind picked up and we’ve had snow since.  We are now hoping to head up on a summit bid after 4 days of rest, weather depending.  6 Sherpa are carrying 2 oxygen bottles each to C2 today. TMA was supposed to fix to the summit today but the weather is too bad. Hopefully the weather will improve and they’ll be able to get the route in soon.  Once I have nailed down a summit schedule a bit more I’ll give you a heads up. For now we’re just resting in ABC in bad weather.”

Eric Simonson

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Kili Team At Shira Camp

September 16, 2010

Phil called in at 6:35am (PST)

We had another good day today.  We’re at Shira Camp at 12,500’.  Weather was perfect again today, chapter two of Goldilocks and the Three Bears, not too hot, not to cold, it was just right!  Today was a relatively short day and tomorrow will be a little longer.  The group will go up to roughly 14,500’ and then down to 13,000’ at Barranco Camp.  Everyone is doing well.  We’ll check back in again tomorrow evening.

Phil

Shira Camp At Night

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Kili Climb Kicks Off

September 15, 2010

Mt. Kilimanjaro

Phil called in at 5:53am (PST)

First day on the trail for us, we are at Machame Camp.  We were up bright and early this morning and moving by 7:30, which enabled us to be the first group at the gate, the first group on the trail and we were so early we didn’t see another person on the trail the entire day.  Now we’re in camp and all 11 team members are doing great.  It was a perfect day for walking; not too hot, not too cold, like Goldilocks and the Three Bears – just right.  It was a good day.  We’re off to a rip roaring start with 4000’ vertical today and a little less tomorrow, about 2500’.  We’ll check in again tomorrow night.

Phil

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Kili Team All Set

September 14, 2010

Phil called in via SAT phone to report:

A nice view of the mountain.

Everyone arrived in Tanzania with all their luggage and in good health.  This is a good start to the trip.  Having everyone in one place at one time with all their luggage is one of the toughest parts of any big expedition.

Right now we are changing money and doing a little last minute shopping and packing at the Keys Hotel and generally getting ready to begin our 7 day trip up and down Kilimanjaro tomorrow morning.  The team looks good with everyone getting along well.  We have a diverse group of people from 25yrs old on up to 70 years young.

Everyone is excited about the climb.  We’ll keep you posted on how we do.

Phil

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Confessions Of A Glutton

September 13, 2010

Earlier this season we had a blast taking several of our friends over at Outdoor Research up Mt. Rainier. Below is a peak into their experience.  Enjoy!

—————————————————————————-

Confessions of a Glutton
By Teresa Bruffey of Outdoor Research

Outdoor Research Rainier team working the Muir Snowfield.

“Do you have any extra room in your pack?,” my roommate asked in a breathless voice punctuated with a bit of urgency – it was late after all on the night before my departure. “Do you have just a little bit of room?”

Well, sure.  I’m a pretty efficient packer. So, “yes”, I replied as I skimmed my packing list for last minute essentials that I may have forgotten at this late stage of prep.

“I have a blessing for you…” My sweet friend had carried a wish back with her from Nepal, a trip she took last fall before I was lucky enough to meet her. My blessing, carried so far, is so simple and beautiful; a few pieces of rice wrapped in paper and carefully closed with bright colorful thread. To be honest, I dont know if there is meaning to the colors of thread or the way it’s wrapped. I dont know if the paper holds special significance. I’m not even sure, really if there is actually rice in there since I can’t quite feel it through all the paper.

I could, however, read the words of the prayer written by Lama Geshe from Pangpoche:

“Give up all intention to harm others from your heart,
And do your best to benefit them all,
If each and everyone feels the universal responsibility to do so,
We will all enjoy the feast of peace.”

Good times at Camp Muir!

Hmm. I also knew the love that carried the blessing from my friend’s hands to mine, and that carefully watched this blessing be placed in a special spot in my pack. From one climber to another were passed the hopes for safe travel, for success, and most of all, for an amazing experience to mark a significant moment in life. Sara’s small gesture was a nugget of strength that helped me climb to over 14,400′ this past July. (little did she know, those 10 months ago in Nepal, that this little package would be so important to an then-unknown girl on a glacier, high in the sky – I love unexpected connections like this.)

Two days later, as I made my way with my team and our amazing guides from International Mountain Guides, from Paradise to Muir, we passed a number of groups enjoying the bluebird day and the views the mountain had to share. One family made a big deal of moving to the side – “look, climbers!!” I almost felt like a celebrity -*blush, blush* – and a little pride glowing at my hope to summit. As we passed, the father asked, “how far will you go?” “To the top!” one of my teammates replied.

(Read the full story on OR’s Verticulture site)

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Climbers Start Camp 2 Rotation

September 12, 2010

Morning shot of Cho Oyu from ABC.

Mike Hamill reports from ABC that the team has started the C2 rotation.  Jurg, Markus, Karl, Wolf, and 3 Sherpas headed to C1 today in beautiful weather and the rest of the team will move to C1 tomorrow.

Our Sherpas have been busy the last couple days and they now have six tents, sleeping bags, and pads in place at C2 (about 23,000’ or 7000m) so that camp is ready to occupy.  After the team members overnight at C1, the first group will continue up to C2 tomorrow, with the second team a day behind them.

So far so good!

Eric Simonson

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Camp 1 Rotation Complete; Back At ABC

September 10, 2010

IMG Leader Mike Hamill reports that the team had a good rotation to C1 (about 20,500 feet or 6250m) and that everyone is now back to the thicker air, good food, and hot showers at ABC.  In addition to sleeping at Camp 1 most of the group also continued up to the ice cliff, which is about halfway to C2.  The team is now planning three rest days in ABC before heading up to C2 on the next rotation, weather depending.   Currently the weather is perfect but it sounds like some low pressure is headed towards the mountain.  Four sherpas are now fixing the ice cliff and the rest of the route to C2 today.   Mike reports that ABC is now starting to fill up as other teams arrive.  Our guys have enjoyed having the mountain to themselves, but that is now starting to change.

Eric Simonson

The entire route above camp 1.
The ice cliff above camp 1.

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