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Confessions Of A Glutton

September 13, 2010

Earlier this season we had a blast taking several of our friends over at Outdoor Research up Mt. Rainier. Below is a peak into their experience.  Enjoy!

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Confessions of a Glutton
By Teresa Bruffey of Outdoor Research

Outdoor Research Rainier team working the Muir Snowfield.

“Do you have any extra room in your pack?,” my roommate asked in a breathless voice punctuated with a bit of urgency – it was late after all on the night before my departure. “Do you have just a little bit of room?”

Well, sure.  I’m a pretty efficient packer. So, “yes”, I replied as I skimmed my packing list for last minute essentials that I may have forgotten at this late stage of prep.

“I have a blessing for you…” My sweet friend had carried a wish back with her from Nepal, a trip she took last fall before I was lucky enough to meet her. My blessing, carried so far, is so simple and beautiful; a few pieces of rice wrapped in paper and carefully closed with bright colorful thread. To be honest, I dont know if there is meaning to the colors of thread or the way it’s wrapped. I dont know if the paper holds special significance. I’m not even sure, really if there is actually rice in there since I can’t quite feel it through all the paper.

I could, however, read the words of the prayer written by Lama Geshe from Pangpoche:

“Give up all intention to harm others from your heart,
And do your best to benefit them all,
If each and everyone feels the universal responsibility to do so,
We will all enjoy the feast of peace.”

Good times at Camp Muir!

Hmm. I also knew the love that carried the blessing from my friend’s hands to mine, and that carefully watched this blessing be placed in a special spot in my pack. From one climber to another were passed the hopes for safe travel, for success, and most of all, for an amazing experience to mark a significant moment in life. Sara’s small gesture was a nugget of strength that helped me climb to over 14,400′ this past July. (little did she know, those 10 months ago in Nepal, that this little package would be so important to an then-unknown girl on a glacier, high in the sky – I love unexpected connections like this.)

Two days later, as I made my way with my team and our amazing guides from International Mountain Guides, from Paradise to Muir, we passed a number of groups enjoying the bluebird day and the views the mountain had to share. One family made a big deal of moving to the side – “look, climbers!!” I almost felt like a celebrity -*blush, blush* – and a little pride glowing at my hope to summit. As we passed, the father asked, “how far will you go?” “To the top!” one of my teammates replied.

(Read the full story on OR’s Verticulture site)

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Climbers Start Camp 2 Rotation

September 12, 2010

Morning shot of Cho Oyu from ABC.

Mike Hamill reports from ABC that the team has started the C2 rotation.  Jurg, Markus, Karl, Wolf, and 3 Sherpas headed to C1 today in beautiful weather and the rest of the team will move to C1 tomorrow.

Our Sherpas have been busy the last couple days and they now have six tents, sleeping bags, and pads in place at C2 (about 23,000’ or 7000m) so that camp is ready to occupy.  After the team members overnight at C1, the first group will continue up to C2 tomorrow, with the second team a day behind them.

So far so good!

Eric Simonson

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Camp 1 Rotation Complete; Back At ABC

September 10, 2010

IMG Leader Mike Hamill reports that the team had a good rotation to C1 (about 20,500 feet or 6250m) and that everyone is now back to the thicker air, good food, and hot showers at ABC.  In addition to sleeping at Camp 1 most of the group also continued up to the ice cliff, which is about halfway to C2.  The team is now planning three rest days in ABC before heading up to C2 on the next rotation, weather depending.   Currently the weather is perfect but it sounds like some low pressure is headed towards the mountain.  Four sherpas are now fixing the ice cliff and the rest of the route to C2 today.   Mike reports that ABC is now starting to fill up as other teams arrive.  Our guys have enjoyed having the mountain to themselves, but that is now starting to change.

Eric Simonson

The entire route above camp 1.
The ice cliff above camp 1.

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Success on Kilimanjaro

Labor Day weekend has come and gone, hope it was enjoyed by all!  Here’s a couple of updates from Kilimanjaro:

September 7, 2010

Sunrise from the summit bid

We love hearing of another 100% successful trip!!  Olivia just phoned the office and reported that all members stood today on the true summit of Kilimanjaro with Olivia and our Chagga guides.  Perfect weather was the word from O.  It’s night there now and all have already made the 9000 vertical foot descent to their final camp at Mweka, altitude 10,000 ft.  Now, the air’s warm and thick and sleep will come easy.  It’s a short hike on good trail in the morning down to the Mweka gate and pick up by our drivers.  Quick shower and lunch at the Keys Hotel and then it’s a pick up for the guys and off to their custom safari.  Another great trip, great summit and great people.  Nice!!

Phil Ershler

September 6, 2010

Olivia left a message at 7 a.m. (our time) – the team is getting up at 11 p.m. and leaving Barafu camp at midnight for the summit.  The team is doing well and she will call back tomorrow with an update!

George Dunn

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2011 Rainier Dates Released!

September 7, 2010

Working the snowfield en route to Camp Muir. (Photo by Warren Wilhide)

We’re happy to announce that our 2011 Rainier dates are now released and reservations for next year can be made. Dates fill up fast so book your climb and tell your friends ASAP!

When is the best time to climb Mt. Rainier you ask? Find the answer here.

New trips for 2011:
Little Tahoma
Kautz EX
Advanced Mountain Day School

Three steps to reserving your climb for 2011
1.) Call the office to see that the dates you want are still available. (360-569-2609)
2.) Fill out these forms then fax or email them to the office.
3.) Receive confirmation email within 48hours (during the business week).

Notes:
Group Policy: All applications need to be submitted at the same time. We are not able to “hold” climbs or pencil anybody in for any reason. Group size for most climbs is 12 (8 climbers and 4 guides).

$300 Application Fee: This will be applied to the cost of the climb and is required to reserve your climb. Final payment is due 90 days prior to the climb. All fees are non-refundable once received by IMG.

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Cho Oyu Climbers Reach Camp 1

September 7, 2010

Camp 1

IMG Leader Mike Hamill reports that the team is all healthy now and all is well here.  Karl, Markus, and Wolf are on their way up to C1 to sleep with Kami and Karma Rita. Ang Pasang is up there today as well. Da Nuru and Mingma Tenzing are fixing a few pitches above C1 today so the climbers can go higher up tomorrow.

The main group will head to C1 tomorrow to spend one night, climb above C1 a bit, and then descend the following day. We’re going through the technical harness set-up, etc today.  The weather is a bit more unstable with snow and a bit of wind for most of today.  This is the second day the Sherpas have carried to C1 so it’s pretty well stocked.  So far so good!

Eric Simonson

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Kili Team Arrives At Karanga Camp

September 5, 2010

Olivia called in via sat phone this morning to report that all is well at Karanga Valley Camp (13,000ft.). The weather continues to hold out for them with cool, clear morning and predictable clouds in the afternoons. They’ll move up to Barafu Camp (15,000ft.) tomorrow and head for the summit shortly thereafter!

IMG Kilimanjaro Team at Karanga Valley Camp

That’s all for now.

Tye Chapman

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Cho Oyu Puja Ceremony

September 5, 2010

Mike Hamill reports from ABC that everyone is doing surprisingly well with the altitude, with almost no headaches or issues. Today the Sherpas and team members had a good puja ceremony and also got the Bgan internet terminal up and running, two important things!

IMG Cho Oyu Puja Ceremony

Mike reports that the weather seems to be stabilizing and pressure is rising. The team plans to hike towards C1 tomorrow and then come back down and sleep at ABC. Then, the next day they will rest and then they plan to head to C1 to sleep the following day.

Eric Simonson

More on Cho Oyu

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Cho Oyu Climbers Reach ABC

September 4, 2010

Mike Hamill reports by sat phone that the team all made it up to ABC in good shape and that everyone is doing well.  The IMG Sherpas did a great job getting the camp set up and all the yaks up there with the gear, so everything was looking good for the arrival of the climbers.  Cho Oyu ABC is quite high, at nearly 18,500 feet, so one thousand feet higher than Everest Base Camp.  That is why it was super important for them to move up there slowly, with lots of acclimatization hiking along the way.

The team will now do their puja at ABC,  the sherpa blessing ceremony that which marks the traditional beginning of the climbing.  Then, over the next few days, the Sherpas will start working on putting in Camp 1 and the climbers will continue their acclimatization with several day trips up toward Camp 1, before they move up there for overnight.

So far so good!!

Eric Simonson

Cho Oyu ABC
Cho Oyu Advanced Base Camp

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A Special Message From Kilimanjaro

September 4, 2010

The breach wall on Kilimanjaro.

Olivia called in from Barancco Camp this morning to relay a special hello to all the kids of the Kili climbers… A big “hello and I love you” to: Alexander, David, Emory, Elizabeth, Jack, Harrison, Windham, Katherine, Evans, Luke, Mary Ellis, and Madelyn!

All is well at camp. They made good time today and have a shorter day to Karanga Valley Camp tomorrow which they’re all looking forward to. The good news about tomorrow is they’ll cross the Breach Wall (a bit of pretty steep scrambling in a few places) and traverse below the Southern Glaciers. This is typically the favorite day on the approach, with great scenery and rugged hiking.

All is well…

Tye Chapman

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