November 4, 2010

Approach hike to Camp 1. (Photo by George Dunn)

Rest day number one is in the books for the Ama Dablam crew. Mark called in last night to report that all is well and everybody is using these two days to heal up the best they can. After the rest days, the team will head back up to C1 then on up to their second camp located on the SW ridge at roughly 21,000ft. They’ll summit from this camp then drop down a little lower before heading back to C1 and on down to BC.

Until then it’s another well deserved lazy day at Ama Base Camp.

Tye Chapman

November 3, 2010

A photo from the tents at Camp 1. (photo by George Dunn)

Ama Dablam guide Mark Allen called in this morning to report that the team is back down at Base Camp safe and sound. All their needed equipment and food have been successfully cached at C1. A rest day or two and then they’ll be heading back up for the final time en route to the summit!

That’s all for now…but more to come!

Tye Chapman

November 2, 2010

Mark Allen and the IMG team made it up to Camp 1 today and sent us this SPOT from there.  The photo below on the right is a good shot of the slabby rock leading up to Camp 1.  So far so good!

Eric Simonson

November 1, 2010

IMG leader Mark Allen reports from the 4600m (15,088ft) Ama Dablam Base Camp, that the team is doing well.  Panuru and Ang Pasang returned to BC after fixing on the upper mountain and it sounds like the route is in good shape.  Mark reports that “the Main Lama from Pangboche came up and gave our climbing team an extreme blessing for our puja ceremony.  The climbing Sherpas erected several rows of prayer flags that are intended to give us safe climbing. Then, it snowed over night up to 4″ in Base Camp, forcing us to take another rest day!”

Many of you have asked about the new “cell phone service on Everest” that has been in the news lately.  We sent Mark out with a new data network card for the laptop to experiment with, and a GSM cell phone as well.  So far it seems to be working OK, but at Lobuche BC there was no cell service, so we needed the satellite phone.  At Ama Dablam BC they have to walk about 200m out of camp to hit the cell tower.  My impression is that the sat phones will still be needed by expeditions to provide redundancy, as the cell service is still spotty in the upper valley.

The weather is now looking good, and everyone is excited.  The current plan is to move up to Camp 1 on November 2.  They will send the gear duffels up to 17700ft on yaks, from where they will ferry the loads up to C1 (5750m, 18860ft).  The next day the team will head up onto the ridge towards Camp 2 for more technical training and acclimatization, then descend back to BC for a couple more rest days, before heading back up for the summit bid.

We’ll keep you posted!

Eric Simonson

October 28, 2010

IMG sirdar Ang Pasang reported from Ama Dablam Base Camp a couple days ago that he and Panuru Sherpa have now set up the BC in preparation for the arrival of the climbers after they wrap up their acclimatization on Lobuche Peak.  Ang Pasang and Panuru are two of our most senior sherpas, and they have each climbed Ama Dablam multiple times.  Now, Ang Pasang reports that they have completed their first trip up to Camp 1 to claim a tent site at the camp.  They also took 750 meters of fixed rope up with them.  Tomorrow they are planning to climb up to Camp 3 and fix ropes along the way.  Several other sherpas from other teams are also going up with them to work on the fixing, so they are hoping to get new rope fixed on much of the route over the next couple days.  We’ll look forward to getting a report on the climbing conditions on the route from them when they get back down!

Eric Simonson

Camps 1,2 and 3 at Ama Dablam

October 28, 2010

IMG guide Mark Allen called on the sat phone to report that the team had a nice climb of Lobuche Peak today, followed by a safe descent back to Base Camp.  It was a long hard day, but everyone is back down and doing well.  Tomorrow the plan is to descend to Dingboche, where they will have a well earned rest day.  Congrats to the guides, climbers and sherpas for a job well done!

Eric Simonson

October 27, 2010

IMG guide Mark Allen reports that the team members had a good training day yesterday at Lobuche Base Camp.  They reviewed the gear and techniques that they will need for the climb, including getting rigged up for using the fixed ropes.  Today they are moving up to the High Camp in preparation for the summit bid tomorrow.   This camp is situated by a gorgeous alpine tarn just below the big glacier that comes down from the upper slopes of Lobuche Peak.   As the members move up to the camp we have Danuru (Dawa) and Chewang Lendu, two of our top sherpas, heading up higher to fix the ropes and prepare the route above for the ascent.  Then, tomorrow morning, they will get a pre-dawn start and head on up the rocky slabs above the camp which will take them to the glacier.  We’ll keep you posted!

Eric Simonson

October 23, 2010

View of Ama Dablam in Himalaya

IMG Guide Mark Allen reports:

“The team ascended to Lobuche at 16,100ft and had the clearest day thus far. The timing was perfect because we had views of many 6000m peaks including a stunning view of Ama Dablam, as well as 7000m peaks Nuptse and Pumo Ri.  We trekked up the Moraines of the Khumbu Ice fall and had a 360 degree view of the major peaks of the Himalayas on a clear day.

The altitude is affecting us and we are slowing down to cope. After one night in Lobuche we will continue to ascend the Khumbu Glacier on Oct. 23^rd and reach our highest village on the trek, Gorak Shep 17593ft, and ascend to Kala Patthar 18204ft for what’s known as the most beautiful views in the Himalayas and the best view of Everest 8850m. After one night at Gorak Shep we will return to Lobuche.

Every one is in good hands and doing fine, although some of the team is suffering from head and chest colds. A few climbers are choosing to stay & rest in Lobuche to heal the cold rather than climb higher where it is harder to heal. This will give them a better shot at being better for the climbs later to come.”

– Mark Allen

October 25, 2010 – Update

Later on the 23rd Mark called in via sat phone to report that they were at 17000 ft. & on their way down from Kala Patthar where all the EBC trekkers summitted.  They’re on their way down to Gorak Shep where they’ll spend the night, then head down to Lobuche.  At that point they’ll say goodbye to the EBC trekkers and the Lobuche climbers will head to EBC, then back down to Lobuche.

The Ama Dablam team is using the SPOT Tracker at each new location and will send updates when able.   Stay tuned and wish them luck!

– Becky Kjorvestad

IMG Ama Dablam Team Spot Location

October 22, 2010

IMG Guides Mark Allen and Max Bunce called in via sat phone early this morning to report that they are currently at Lobuche – approximately 15,000 ft. – and everyone & everything is fine.  Tomorrow the plan is to move up to Gorak Shep, and then continue on toward either Kala Patthar or Everest BC, depending on the weather.

SPOT Location of IMG Ama Dablam Team

Two of the trekkers are on their way back down to Lukla, (having planned an early descent due to time constraints) and one climber is staying at Lobuche to continue to acclimatize.  The rest of the team will continue right on schedule.  Everyone is happy and healthy – other than a few minor head colds here and there – but all is well!

More IMG Ama Dablam blog action can be found on team member Mark Ursino’s website: http://www.markursino.com/

– Becky Kjorvestad