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Summit Day On Vinson

December 9, 2010

A look at a Vinson Summit Day. (Photo Eric Remza)

Phil called in last night around Midnight (Antarctica time/7:00pm PST) to report that everybody made it up to High Camp in good form yesterday and will go for the summit today.

The plan today was to wake up with the sun, fire up the stoves for a hot drink then hit the “trail” on what Phil estimates to be  a 12hr. summit day (roundtrip back to High Camp). If all is going as planned, they’re a few hours into their day, but we’ll know more this evening.

Tomorrow, they’ll continue downhill to Vinson Base Camp where they’ll catch a flight (weather permitting) to the new landing area at Union Glacier where the big IL-76 awaits to fly them back to South America.  First thing first – summit Vinson, the rest can wait.

Tye Chapman

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Vinson Team Moving To High Camp

December 8, 2010

National Weather Service Windchill Chart

Phil called in last night to report that after a week, their time at C1 is thankfully coming to a close. Winds yesterday were relatively calm with temps around 0 degrees Fahrenheit, but while it was nice at C1, the winds were estimated at 50+mph up at High Camp forcing the team to hang tight for another day.

The team will get moving around noon today after the shadows retreat as the sun rises above the ridge making their climb to High Camp a touch warmer. A good 48-hour forecast should give them solid summit window on Thursday.

That’s all for now.

Tye Chapman

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Team Vinson Stays Busy

December 6, 2010

Phil  called in this morning at 8:00 PST.

All is well at Camp 1, but  the group is still waiting on the winds to die and conditions to improve before moving to high camp.  Currently winds are gusting at 35 mph at Camp.

Guide Aaron Mainer and some of the group descended to Base Camp to bring up additional supplies while the rest of the team built snow walls around camp.  Phil reports that there are no issues with the group and all are doing well.

George Dunn

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Vinson Team Holding At C1

December 4, 2010

Vinson Camp 1 checked in Saturday afternoon at 12:30

“Looks like we’re going to be sitting again today – weather’s improving but not enough to warrant going up high.  The nice thing is that we have plenty of time and plenty of gas and food here at Camp 1.  We also have the ability to see up to the location of High Camp so we can watch the winds blowing the plumes off the ridge giving us a good indication of when to move up.  Quite pleasant with no wind down here at Camp 1 -  all’s well and we’re just biding our time at picking the best shot.”

Phil Ershler

The weather in Antarctica is like nowhere else (photo: Mike Schiller)

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Tent Time In Antarctica

December 3, 2010

What a windy day on the fixed lines looks like. (photo by Eric Remza)

Phil called in from C1 on Vinson to report that they’re in the middle of their first “weather imposed rest day”.  It’s pretty windy where they’re located and extremely windy up high.

They spent the morning building up their wind walls and are currently in the middle of an intense game of Hearts… Assistant Guide Aaron Mainer is currently winning but as Phil said, “nobody keeps stats on who’s winning in the middle of the game”.

The forecast isn’t much better for tomorrow so it looks like they’ll wait it out and see what Sunday brings.

That’s all for now.

Tye Chapman

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Ecuador: Two Summits In Two Days

December 2, 2010

Well, the team is back in Quito winding down after 2+ weeks here in Ecuador.  As you know we got shutdown during our first two weeks here but we came on strong these last two days with summits of Illiniza Norte and Illiniza Sur!

Iliniza Norte was a great climb (both times) loaded with different technical challenges.  The summit was rocky but we all found a spot to enjoy a few moments on a well deserved summit.  As we took in the views, watching the clouds roll in and out, we spotted our next objective: Iliniza Sur.

Illinizia Sur (Photo by Tyler Gimenez)
Illinizia Sur (Photo by Tyler Gimenez)

Illinizia Sur (Photo by Tyler Gimenez)
Illinizia Sur (Photo by Tyler Gimenez)

The line we wanted to climb on Illiniza Sur was steep and we anticipated needing to use some running belays and perhaps a fixed line near the summit.  The team was up for the challenge.  We woke up at about 1:00am, were walking by 2:30am and were standing on the summit at 6:00am, just in time for an amazing sunrise, which we all enjoyed tremendously since we haven’t seen much of the sun these past couple weeks.

What a climb! Sometimes the climb itself is so much fun that the summit gets overshadowed by the journey, which as a guide, is a great feeling!  After the team hit the summit and looked around, they asked Romulo and me, “Is this the summit?” which was to say, “This is fun as hell, can’t we keep going?”.  On top with nowhere to go but down, we headed back to the hut for a hot drink and our ride back to Quito.

What’s left?  Pizza, beer and a little storytelling of course before we all head home tomorrow.

Greg Vernovage

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Vinson Team Enjoying A Rest Day

December 2, 2010

Looking up at the headwall on the way to Camp 2 (Photo: Jason Tanguay)

Phil called in this morning to report that the carry to High Camp went off without a hitch. The weather held out as expected and everybody did great yesterday ascending the 4000 linear feet of fixed lines to High Camp then descending back to C1.

Today they’ll catch up on their sleep and load up on calories before moving to High Camp tomorrow (Friday) with a possible summit day on Saturday.

That’s all for now…

Tye Chapman

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Ecuador Team Summits Illiniza Norte

December 1, 2010

After getting shut-down on Cotopaxi (weather) and Cayambe (avalanche hazard) and Illiniza Norte yesterday (thunder & lightning), Greg reports that the team gave Illiniza Norte another try today and summited at 10:30am this morning! Not a bad way to celebrate Romulo’s 50th birthday!

Illiniza Norte & Sur

They’re back at the hut that sits in the saddle between Illiniza Norte and Illiniza Sur having an early (well deserved) dinner then grabbing a few hours sleep before the 1:30am wake-up call to climb Illiniza Sur early tomorrow morning.  These guys are tough!

Follow their SPOT progress here.

Tye Chapman

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Vinson Team At Camp 1

December 1, 2010

That's a lot of ice.

Phil called in from Antarctica last night to report that he and his team moved to C1 (9500ft.) yesterday.  Good weather and firm snow made for a great day.

More good weather is expected today for their carry to High Camp (12,500ft.) but the forecast takes a turn for the worse on Thursday which plays right into the team”s scheduled rest day. Only Phil could forecast Antarctic weather months in advance.

That’s all for now.

Tye

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Lightning & Thunder Stop Ecuador Team 400ft Short

November 30, 2010

Illiniza Norte & Sur

Greg called in to report that our Ecuador team stopped 400ft short of the summit of Illiniza Norte earlier today due to some significant lightning and thunder. All made it back to the refugio safely and will give it another shot tonight.

After Round 2 with Illiniza Norte is  Illiniza Sur on Thursday.

Track their SPOT progress here.

Tye Chapman

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