December 2, 2010

Well, the team is back in Quito winding down after 2+ weeks here in Ecuador.  As you know we got shutdown during our first two weeks here but we came on strong these last two days with summits of Illiniza Norte and Illiniza Sur!

Iliniza Norte was a great climb (both times) loaded with different technical challenges.  The summit was rocky but we all found a spot to enjoy a few moments on a well deserved summit.  As we took in the views, watching the clouds roll in and out, we spotted our next objective: Iliniza Sur.

The line we wanted to climb on Illiniza Sur was steep and we anticipated needing to use some running belays and perhaps a fixed line near the summit.  The team was up for the challenge.  We woke up at about 1:00am, were walking by 2:30am and were standing on the summit at 6:00am, just in time for an amazing sunrise, which we all enjoyed tremendously since we haven’t seen much of the sun these past couple weeks.

What a climb! Sometimes the climb itself is so much fun that the summit gets overshadowed by the journey, which as a guide, is a great feeling!  After the team hit the summit and looked around, they asked Romulo and me, “Is this the summit?” which was to say, “This is fun as hell, can’t we keep going?”.  On top with nowhere to go but down, we headed back to the hut for a hot drink and our ride back to Quito.

What’s left?  Pizza, beer and a little storytelling of course before we all head home tomorrow.

Greg Vernovage

December 1, 2010

After getting shut-down on Cotopaxi (weather) and Cayambe (avalanche hazard) and Illiniza Norte yesterday (thunder & lightning), Greg reports that the team gave Illiniza Norte another try today and summited at 10:30am this morning! Not a bad way to celebrate Romulo’s 50th birthday!

Illiniza Norte & Sur

They’re back at the hut that sits in the saddle between Illiniza Norte and Illiniza Sur having an early (well deserved) dinner then grabbing a few hours sleep before the 1:30am wake-up call to climb Illiniza Sur early tomorrow morning.  These guys are tough!

Follow their SPOT progress here.

Tye Chapman

November 30, 2010

Illiniza Norte & Sur

Greg called in to report that our Ecuador team stopped 400ft short of the summit of Illiniza Norte earlier today due to some significant lightning and thunder. All made it back to the refugio safely and will give it another shot tonight.

After Round 2 with Illiniza Norte is  Illiniza Sur on Thursday.

Track their SPOT progress here.

Tye Chapman

November 29, 2010

Guide Greg Vernovage reports the entire team is safely back in Quito after their attempt on Cayambe. Here is his report:

“Back in Quito.  Cayambe was a tough go.  We had to get dropped off well below the hut ….  We got the 4X4 to help out shuttling people.  Rain and snow on the way up to the hut.

A good night sleep by everyone.  We did some training and a short hike up the rocks outside of the Refugio to get a look at the route.

What I noticed was how warm it was.  After all the precipitation we had combined with the warmth I thought there might be some potential for slides higher up.  We heard that there was a slide higher on the mountain that afternoon.

Woke up at 11pm and walked by 12:15.  Weaved our way up the rocks and across some mellow terrain. Crampons on and roped up.  About 30 minutes later, arrived at the avalanche path.  Looked to be a wet slide.  Good size path and firm.  It was a very warm night.  Walked about 10 minutes on the path, same as the climbing route….  Romulo and I stopped and talked about where the Avalanche might have originated and if there could be more (hazard) up higher.”

[The guides estimated the avalanche path to be 400 meters wide and 600 meters long, and were concerned about the additional potential for slides. They made the right call in deciding to turn the group back at this point. GD]

“We returned to the hut and caught a nap.  Woke up at 8:30 to wind and a lot of snow blowing in.  Got our gear together and loaded it into the 4X4 and made our way down.

More rain in the afternoon which is a pattern.  Arrived at the Hotel in Quito.  Everyone is happy and resting today.”

Some members are on their way home after the end of the normal program. There is continued concern about new snowfall in the mountains, and how it would affect the upcoming climb of Chimborazo. As a result,  the remaining members have decided on an alternate plan proposed by the guides. Instead of attempting Chimborazo, they will attempt a climb of neighboring Iliniza Norte and Iliniza Sur over the next two days.

As reported to George Dunn in the office by trip leader Greg Vernovage.

Iliniza Norte and Illiniza Sur from Cotapaxi

November 28, 2010

Cotopaxi.

While we were feeding our faces with Thanksgiving dinner and then again with the leftovers the following weekend, our team in Ecuador has been working hard!

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On Thanksgiving day the team left the refugio on Cotopaxi on a great summit day but as Greg said his “mountain senses” were tingling so they dug a snow pit to confirm what they were feeling. Sure enough they found faceted granules about 25-30 inches down on a layer of ice. This made turning around at 17,929ft a little easier…painful nonetheless.  Not defeated, the team went horseback riding that afternoon then enjoyed a nice Thanksgiving dinner of their own.

They awoke at their hacienda to some light rain. Next up was Cayambe. As the rain turned to snow near the hut it became clear that the 4×4 jeeps were not going to be able to make it all the way to the hut – what’s a little load carrying amongst friends right? Summit night brought more and more snow with limited to no visibility so climbing Cayambe just wasn’t in the cards.

Good decisions behind them, they’re on their way back to Quito today so a couple team members can head back home on some scheduled flights while some others are stick around for the extension and possibly a climb of Chimborazo or an alternate mountain should Chimbo be unclimbable at the moment.

That’s all for now…

Tye Chapman

November 23, 2010

Which way to Cotopaxi?

Greg reports that all is well in Ecuador. The team had a nice training day yesterday near the refugio on Cotopaxi. After a few solid hours of training (and acclimatizing) they dropped some gear at the hut before heading back down to Tierra del Volcan where they stayed for a second night.

They’re heading back up to the refugio today with hopes of climbing tonight.  The weather is still a little questionable so they’ve brought along an extra day of food in case they have to wait out a little weather tonight.

Everybody is doing just fine, a few headaches but that’s normal for this altitude.

We’ll know more tomorrow, but until then you can track their progress when they start climbing here.

Tye Chapman