March 8, 2011

As another set of winter storms is heading our way over the next few days, which only drives home the point that Mt. Rainier is the premier training ground for Denali Climbers.

We’ve got a another Denali Prep Seminar coming through here this weekend and it looks like they’ll get a full dose of what Mt. Rainier brings to the table this time of year. Guide Greg Vernovage just had a look at  the weather and got a little excited because he loves getting out in the mix of it and teaching climbers what to expect when they head up to Denali later this year or next season.

We’ll have more on this program as it gets underway on Sunday.

For now here’s a look at the forecast.

Tye Chapman

March 4, 2011

Note the skier... We will not be on skis on this program. (Photo by IMG Guide Chris Meder)

Have you climbed Rainier before & are you looking for a more challenging route? Well, if you’re very fit and looking to push yourself physically and technically on a non-standard route, then this is the program for you!

The crux of the route, the finger itself, is a narrow chute that necks down to a few hundred feet across. The steepest part of the chute is 40-50 degrees in angle. Above, the upper mountain eases off in angle and the final 2,000 feet are a more typical 20 degree slope. Hazards on this route include the potential for isolated rock or ice fall during warming conditions so we climb the exposed part of the chute rapidly to avoid prolonged exposure.

All participants must have prior alpine climbing experience either on Rainier or on other major glaciated peaks, and be familiar with basic mountaineering skills including cramponing in firm ice and snow conditions.

Dates: June 7-11 and June 29 – July 3
Group size: 4 climbers & 2 guides
More Info

February 22, 2011

Greg & I were happy to call 6000ft. our high point on Saturday.

Over the long weekend the sun came out here in the Pacific Northwest for the first time in quite awhile – and right in time for a big 3-day weekend!

The summit, fresh powder, the long drive, or meeting up with friends are all “human factors” that can contribute poor decision making when traveling in the backcountry in the winter.

Greg and I set out to meet-up with our descending Winter Seminar on Saturday but were happy to call 6000ft. our “high point” on Saturday after seeing the tail end of a small avalanche at Panorama Point; an important reminder to all climbers, skiers or snowshoers inside Mt. Rainier National Park to not let the “human factor” cloud your judgement – at even the lowest of elevations.

More snow coming…

Tye Chapman

Mt. Rainier Weather

Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center

Mt. Rainier National Park Climbing Info Blog