March 11, 2011
Everybody enjoys a good photo now and again…
Check out this beauty taken by Steve Harshbarger while on Safari in 2010. Not a bad way to wrap up a climb of Kilimanjaro!
OR “Goes†to Everest with IMG
March 9, 2011
By Eben Reckord via OR’s Verticulture
29,035ft or 8850m - Either way it's the top of the world!
It’s hard to think that my journey to the top of the world started on a train in Tokyo. I was fourteen and I knew I wanted to climb, but wasn’t quite sure how to go about it. The closest climbing gym was three hours away and every Sunday my friends and I would set out for it. It was an all-day event and we made sure our homework from the American School in Japan was done before leaving so that the adventure could run late. Not really knowing what we were doing we bouldered our brains out, too afraid to try roped climbing. Though only pulling on plastic every Sunday, the experience would evolve into a serious passion for big mountain climbing. And, like any good climb, by no means was it a straight line from those Sunday outings to Pump 2 in Tokyo to the summit of Mt. Everest.
The flag I’m holding up in this picture means so much to me. In the middle is the rising sun; Japan’s essence. I consider it a commitment to a new day, a commitment that anything is possible. The Kanji means number one. And though I am an American, my time in Japan helped to shape the man I am today.
Outdoor Research has been with me from the start of my guiding career when I met Dan Nordstrom on the Emmons Glacier on Mt. Rainier. (Read more)
Winter Storms Heading Our Way – Perfect Timing
March 8, 2011
As another set of winter storms is heading our way over the next few days, which only drives home the point that Mt. Rainier is the premier training ground for Denali Climbers.
We’ve got a another Denali Prep Seminar coming through here this weekend and it looks like they’ll get a full dose of what Mt. Rainier brings to the table this time of year. Guide Greg Vernovage just had a look at the weather and got a little excited because he loves getting out in the mix of it and teaching climbers what to expect when they head up to Denali later this year or next season.
We’ll have more on this program as it gets underway on Sunday.
For now here’s a look at the forecast.
Tye Chapman
New Program On Mt. Rainier: Fuhrer Finger
March 4, 2011
Note the skier... We will not be on skis on this program. (Photo by IMG Guide Chris Meder)
Have you climbed Rainier before & are you looking for a more challenging route? Well, if you’re very fit and looking to push yourself physically and technically on a non-standard route, then this is the program for you!
The crux of the route, the finger itself, is a narrow chute that necks down to a few hundred feet across. The steepest part of the chute is 40-50 degrees in angle. Above, the upper mountain eases off in angle and the final 2,000 feet are a more typical 20 degree slope. Hazards on this route include the potential for isolated rock or ice fall during warming conditions so we climb the exposed part of the chute rapidly to avoid prolonged exposure.
All participants must have prior alpine climbing experience either on Rainier or on other major glaciated peaks, and be familiar with basic mountaineering skills including cramponing in firm ice and snow conditions.
Dates: June 7-11 and June 29 – July 3
Group size: 4 climbers & 2 guides
More Info
Join Us For A Beer On March 8th
March 2, 2011
Come swap some climbing stories with us at the Harmon Expeditionary Event at the Harmon Brewery in Tacoma, WA on March 8th. Event starts at 5pm. Good beer. Good food. Good stories. Good times.Â
Rainier Prep Talks Announced
March 1, 2011
Mt. Rainier
Every year we get together with a few REI’s in the area and give some Rainier Prep Talks. We’ll cover some of the gear necessary to climb Rainier, discuss some training tips as well as a few of the more popular routes.
Below are our upcoming dates and locations.
| Date | Time | REI |
Presenter |
| Wednesday, March 2, 2011 | 7pm | Seattle | George Dunn |
| Wednesday, March 23, 2011 | 7pm | Southcenter | Tye Chapman |
| Wednesday, March 23, 2011 | 7pm | Tacoma | Greg Vernovage |
| Tuesday, April 12, 2011 | 7pm | Issaquah | George Dunn |
| Wednesday, April 13, 2010 | 7pm | Southcenter | Tye Chapman |
Nepal Seattle Society Promotes “Visit Nepal 2011”
February 24, 2011
Greg Vernovage meets Nepalese Ambassador Shankar Prasad Sharma
IMG Guide Greg Vernovage had the privilege of meeting a Nepalese VIP earlier this week:
“On February 20th, I was honored to meet with His Excellency Shankar Prasad Sharma, the Nepalese Ambassador to the United States.
The event was held by the Nepal Seattle Society to represent the Visit Nepal 2011 promotion. On this special night I spoke with the Ambassador about tourism in Nepal as well as my experiences while climbing in the Himalaya. The night was capped off with a documentary titled: “Sherpas – The True Heroes Of Mount Everest.†Nice people, great footage of Mount Everest and a look at what some of the Sherpa do for everyone who climbs Mount Everest.â€
Greg Vernovage
Aconcagua: Hear No Evil, See No Evil, Speak No Evil
February 23, 2011
Ignorance is bliss for some of the mules carrying gear to Base Camp.
Aconcagua season has ended with the return of our 4th successful team. 4 for 4 – we’ll take it. More importantly, everyone’s back with all fingers and toes intact!
This is a tough mountain, particularly when it’s climbed in good style. IMG needs to take a moment and again congratulate all the teams for their amazing efforts. Four strong, independent teams who worked together, shared in all the efforts and were then able to celebrate the rewards that striving together as a team provides. Nicely done, gang. I’ll end this dispatch and this season with a quote from one of the climbers on this 4th and final expedition.
“Just finished the trip a week ago and it was awesome! Couldn’t say enough nice things about Mike, Ty, and Martin.  They are all world class guys who worked their asses off and I would not want to do another trip without these guys!  IMG was the best on the mountain!â€
Phil Ershler
That’s A Wrap On Orizaba
February 23, 2011
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- Summit Route viat SPOT Tracker
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- Orizaba stands at 18,880ft
IMG, my partner, Chris Meder and I need to congratulate, again, each of our climbing partners on the recent IMG “Orizaba Only†trip. Comments I’ve already received included:
“Great trip! This will be one I certainly won’t forget. This was simply a great group of people, and I am so happy to have gotten to know everyone.â€
“Orizaba now ranks as one of my favorite climbs; it was sufficiently challenging to satisfy my climbing jones, while short enough to not leave me completely wiped out when I got home.â€
“Thanks to everyone for a great trip I had a fantastic time with a group of wonderful people. It’s these kinds of experiences that make me keep coming back for more…much to the detriment of my big toe nails.â€
“Looking at my photos and those Chris sent around, I’m beginning to comprehend the size and scope of our trip. It was almost too much to absorb while it was happening. What a great group of people. As mentioned, each having such a different background yet able to relate and enjoy one another under a common interest. We had such a great time.â€
It’s nice when it all comes together. With the right people involved, it usually does.
Phil Ershler
The Human Factor
February 22, 2011
Greg & I were happy to call 6000ft. our high point on Saturday.
Over the long weekend the sun came out here in the Pacific Northwest for the first time in quite awhile – and right in time for a big 3-day weekend!
The summit, fresh powder, the long drive, or meeting up with friends are all “human factors” that can contribute poor decision making when traveling in the backcountry in the winter.
Greg and I set out to meet-up with our descending Winter Seminar on Saturday but were happy to call 6000ft. our “high point” on Saturday after seeing the tail end of a small avalanche at Panorama Point; an important reminder to all climbers, skiers or snowshoers inside Mt. Rainier National Park to not let the “human factor” cloud your judgement – at even the lowest of elevations.
More snow coming…
Tye Chapman