Tibet Teams Head To Tingri

August 26, 2011

Eric,

Cho Oyu rises behind Tingri. (Photo by Mike Hamill)

We’reÂ about to hop in the vehicles here in Nyalam, and to head to Tingri. Â The teamsÂ are healthy and acclimatizing well. Yesterday we took a longer hike gaining a few thousand feet. The weather is clear and sunny; much better than this time last year, so hopefully it holds and the monsoons are coming to an end. We will spend two nights at Tingri (14000+ feet) before the teams split to their respective base camps. The Cho Oyu sherpa team, minus Mingma Dorjee and Dawa Nuru, went ahead to Tingri yesterday to check on the hotel situation there.Â Today they are heading to Cho Oyu base camp to start getting things set up. The Shishapangma Sherpas went directly to Shishapangma base camp yesterday to begin setting up that camp.

Mike Hamill

Got Peas?

August 25, 2011

A classic tent anchor on Mt. Rainer. Canned Peas.

Here at IMG we like to have a little fun whenever we can and sometimes it comes at the cost of a little extra work by others. In this case it comes in the form of a little extra weight in the pack of IMG Guide Jess Culver. You see, she made the mistake of packing her pack for a 6-day Glacier Skills Seminar the night before the climb, which would typically show great initiative and proper planning for the climb, but in this case she made the mistake of leaving her pre-packed pack wide open in the guide lounge unattended for 15 hours. Now, we would never take anything out of a guide’s pack, but adding a few extra ‘materials’ to the pack is not out of the question.

In this case IMG Guide & Lawn Mower Luke Reilly and I raided the ‘free shelf’ in the guide lounge and spotted 1 can of peas and 1 can of potatoes (who cans potatoes btw?) and scratched out a couple notes on the cans and buried them in Jess’ pack just above her sleeping bag and just below the extra layers she wouldn’t need until they made camp. After a few laughs we went to bed and sent them on their way the following morning, after a few more chuckles.

Once at camp we received a very sarcastic ‘thank you’ from Jess via radio transmission and this photo of said peas being put to work as a tent anchor.

We have fun a little differently around here.

Tye Chapman

Cho Oyu And Shishapangma Climbers Reach Nyalam

August 24, 2011

: Road up the gorge between Zhangmu and Nyalam (photo by John Race)

: Nyalam, Tibet (photo by Mike Hamill)

Ang Jangbu reports that the team successfully drove up the rugged Bhote Kosi gorge and have now reached Nyalam (a little over 12000 feet). Tomorrow he will send four Shishapangma sherpas to Shishapangma BC and eight of the Cho Oyu sherpas on to Cho Oyu BC, to start getting those camps set up. The sherpasâ€™ route will take them over the 17,000+ foot Tsong La pass, which marks the beginning of the Tibetan Plateau (Nyalam is still on the south side of the crest).

Meanwhile, the Cho Oyu and Shishapangma team members, and a couple sherpas who are staying back with them, will do further acclimatization hiking tomorrow up the nearby ridges that overlook Nyalam.Â The plan for the team will be to go on to Tingri the following day.Â Â Because Tibet is so high, we want to make sure everyone is well acclimatized before going to the Base Camps.

Eric Simonson

Illimani Summit!

August 23, 2011

Summit of Illimani

IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports by sat phone that the team is all down safe and sound back to the high camp.Â Greg said the weather was good today and they had a nice climb.Â Their plan is now to descend back to the Base Camp and then head back to La Paz tomorrow.

Eric Simonson

Cho Oyu & Shishapangma Climbers Enter Tibet

August 23, 2011

: Zhangmu. (Photo by John Race)

: Zhangmu at street level.

I talked with Jangbu a while ago, and he reports that all the members, Sherpas, and luggage has all reached Zhangmu!Â This is great news, and it means that everything is proceeding on schedule.Â Just getting to Tibet is no small feat, and it sounds like the team had some issues en route.Â Jangbu said the rain started in Kathmandu and was constant all day.

They ended up waiting three hours at the landslide (before Kodari) before it was finally cleared.Â After crossing Friendship Bridge and entering Tibet, the team transferred to their Chinese vehicles (3 trucks, 2 jeeps, 1 mini bus) and they are now all at the hotel (about 8000 feet). Tomorrow the plan is to move on up the rugged valley to Nyalam (about 12000 feet).

Eric Simonson

Illimani Climbers Reach High Camp

August 22, 2011

High Camp on Illimani. (Photo by Greg Vernovage)

IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports by sat phone that the team pulled into the 17,800 foot Â â€œNido de Condoresâ€ high camp on Illimani.Â High camp is situated just below the glacier.Â It is a stiff hike to get up there, and today the team hired some porters to help carry the tents and gear, which was helpful, especially since there was some rocky scrambling in places.

The plan for tomorrow is to head out about 2am, wearing crampons, for a solid day of snow and ice climbing. Greg says the route looks to be in good shape and everyone is doing well.Â So far so good!

Follow their progress here via Greg’s SPOT Tracker.

Eric Simonson

Leaving For Tibet

August 22, 2011

: Shishapangma Team

: Cho Oyu Team

The Cho Oyu and Shishapangma teams got their visas today from the Chinese Embassy and we are all scheduled leave the hotel at 6AM tomorrow morning.Â There was a land slide yesterday 7 km before Kodari (on the Nepal side of the border) down near the hydro dam.Â They tried to clear all day but didn’t quite finish opening the road for vehicles so our gear truck didn’t reach Kodari. Hopefully they will finish by the time we reach there around 10AM tomorrow.Â Raju (in Kodari) spoke to the CTMA and it sounds like our Liaison Officer and Chinese truck have reached Zhangmu, so they will be waiting for us once we cross the border.

Ang Jangbu Sherpa

Success On Baker

August 21, 2011

Mt. Baker

Quick update from IMG Guide Aaron Mainer who called in from high camp on Baker to report that the team summited this afternoon (a day early due to the forecast) and are safely back at camp. They’ll enjoy a full night in their sleeping bags tonight before making their way out to the trailhead tomorrow.

Tye Chapman

Cho Oyu And Shishapangma Teams In Kathmandu

August 21, 2011

Ang Jangbu reports from Kathmandu that all of our Cho Oyu and Shishapangma climbers and their bags have arrived safely in Kathmanduâ€”always a great way to start an expedition!

: Welcome dinner at Hotel Tibet.

: Expedition supplies ready to load onto the truck.

The Sherpas have now finished packing all the food and equipment into yak loads. They loaded the truck this evening, which will depart from Kathmandu early tomorrow morning for the border escorted by Panuru, Karma Rita and Pasang Nuri. Currently the road is open which is good news despite reports of some recent landslide activity.

The team receives their Chinese/Tibetan visas tomorrow, and then they will depart early the following morning.Â Tonight, the team had a â€œwelcome dinnerâ€ at Hotel Tibet.Â After traveling half way around the world, itâ€™s great to finally get all that traveling done, and have the chance to relax a bit with your team, knowing the trip has officially started!

Cho Oyu leaders Craig John and Max Bunce, and Shishapangma leader Mike Hamill report that everyone is doing well and are in good spirits!

Eric Simonson

Illimani Climbers Reach Base Camp

August 21

: Illimani Base Camp. (Photo by Greg Vernovage)

: Illimani Base Camp. (Photo by Greg Vernovage)

Greg reports that after a good rest day yesterday in La Paz, today the group went back into the mountains, supported by some mules to haul their gear for their trek to Base Camp.Â The camp is in a beautiful grassy area at about 15,000 feet, mowed smooth by llamas, mules, horses, and sheep that graze in the area. There is a nice running stream nearby and in the evening the team will get a great view of La Paz night lights.

Eric Simonson

Follow the team via Greg’s SPOT Tracker here.