July 8, 2011

Heading down around Washburn's Thumb with big loads. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)

The descent has begun.  I spoke with Greg around 3 pm (Alaska time) today, July 8.  Gang was all back together and ready to head down from 14,000 ft.  Goal is to camp either at 11,000 ft. or even keep going and make it to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna tonight at 7,800 ft.  Then, it’s a meal, rehydrate, get some sleep and an early morning start for the landing strip.  It’s best to move at night, assuming there’s a hard freeze.  It’s safer and it’s easier traveling on a firm surface.  With a little luck, the team could be in position to fly to Talkeetna about mid-morning on the 9^th.  Stars need to align to make that happen but not impossible.  We’ll know soon.

Phil Ershler

July 7, 2011

About 6 pm Alaska time on July 7, Greg Vernovage and team stood on top of North America.  It was a fine day for a climb.  Congratulations to all!  Three members chose to stay at 14,000 ft.  Everyone will reunite tomorrow for the climb back down the route.

Figure 2 days down to base camp, weather permitting.  Flights off the mountain also need good weather but it’ll happen.  An evening to celebrate in Talkeetna and then it’s flight home.

We’ll keep everyone posted as they head down.

Phil Ershler

July 7, 2011

Heading towards denali pass. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)

July 5, 2011

Looking down at 14K Camp. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)

Greg Vernovage called in this morning from 14K on Denali.  Weather has improved and the team is on their way to high camp.  It’ll be a long day.  This is maybe as important as the actual summit day.  They need to get to high camp in good shape and ready for one more big day.  Once they weigh the weather forecast and the see how everyone is feeling, the team will have to decide whether a rest day at high camp is appropriate or whether it’s time to climb.  Sometimes is a function of “if the fish are running, it’s time to go fishing.”  We likely won’t know until tomorrow but will post the news when available.  Excitement levels are running high.

Phil Ershler

July 3, 2011

Weather at 14k Camp. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)

Weather day at 14,000 ft. for Greg and his team.  Not terrible but not the right time to move up.  I remember a saying that famous Alaskan bush pilot, Doug Geeting, had in his plane – “when in doubt, don’t”.  Works with mountaineering as well as flying, I do believe.

Food, fuel and time are not an issue.  The weather will improve and, when it does, the team will move to high camp at 17,200 ft.

Phil Ershler

July 2, 2011

Spoke with Greg Vernovage this afternoon, the 2^nd, by sat phone.  The group had a serious carry yesterday to Washburn’s Thumb, well up on the West Buttress.  Another big milestone.  They cached gear for their summit attempt there, at around 16,500 ft.  Then, it was back down to 14,000 ft.  Today was a rest day at 14K.  They visited with several IMG guides who are also working with AMS on Denali.  Mike Hamill and his one climber had summited the day before as had guides Aaron Mainer and Ty Gimenez and their one climber.  Nice.  Peter Anderson was leading a regular AMS West Buttress trip and he had also been to the summit the day before.  Nice little get together and nice to see everyone so successful.

Washburn's Thumb. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)

Weather is a big ‘iffy’ right now.  But, 14K is the absolute right place to be when waiting out some marginal weather.  When you think about it, Denali is basically a week long approach and a 3 day climb.  Greg’s team is in the perfect position.  They’ve done the approach and they’ve made their carry up high.  Now they wait for a break in the weather.  When it clears, they need 1 day of good weather to get to high camp and another to summit.  So now they wait patiently and pick their shot.  The carry to Washburn’s Thumb is a tough day but everyone is doing well and still in the game.  As Calvin Coolidge famously said, “persistence and determination are omnipotent”.  The team needs a bit of both now and a bit of luck with the weather.

We’ll keep you posted.

Phil Ershler