April 29, 2011
Ok so it’s not actual lightning, but pretty cool nonetheless!
April 29, 2011
Ok so it’s not actual lightning, but pretty cool nonetheless!
April 29, 2011
We got a call from our Machu Picchu team down in Peru yesterday afternoon. They reported that they had a tough day yesterday trekking from the trailhead (7872ft.) up to their camp at Llullchapampa (11,808ft.). The rain didn’t help with the trekking but it sure cooled things down in the evening.
They hit the trail at about 7am this morning to get a jump start on what will be another tough day. Out of camp they’ll make their way upwards beyond Llupachayoc, from there the ascent becomes increasingly steep and the terrain increasingly rugged as they close in on the first pass, the Abra de Huarmihuanusca (“Dead Woman’s Passâ€) at 13,769ft.. This will be their toughest day on the trail earning them a second Pisco Sour.
More to come…
Tye Chapman
April 28, 2011
IMG Guide Austin Shannon called from Camp Muir this morning to report that all is well – albeit cold and windy!
The wind speeds overnight were a consistent 50mph with gusts up to 85mph! Needless to say they were happy to have the hut to sleep in.
The current forecast has the weather improving over the next few days which will allow them some great training opportunities. Today they’ll cover some snow anchor systems as well as snow science & avalanche information.
All is well on Mt. Rainier!
Tye Chapman
April 27th, 2011
Yesterday our final Denali Prep Seminar of the season made their way to Camp Muir from Camp 1 (pictured above) through a perfectly timed weather window. Not a perfect day but as they say… a bad day in the mountains beats a great day in the office.
After enjoying a late breakfast of pancakes and bacon this morning they spent most of today developing some mountain skills (ice axe arrest, rope travel, cramponing, etc.). They’ll get a little deeper into their training tomorrow as weather permits. The current forecast calls for a couple of cold days and some snow; great training weather in-between hot drinks!
We’ll check in with these guys tomorrow.
Tye Chapman
April 25, 2011
Easter morning, I received an email from Yangdu Gombu, daughter of famed mountaineer, Nawang Gombu, letting me know that her father had passed away. Many stories will be written about Gombu and they will all be true. Jim Whittaker was Gombu’s partner when they climbed Everest together in 1963. Gombu returned in 1965 with an Indian expedition, becoming the first man to summit Everest TWICE.
I first met Gombu in the summer of 1971 while I was a young apprentice guide. My partners, George Dunn and Eric Simonson, and I had the great privilege of sharing days with Gombu on Rainier, Denali, Everest and Kanchenjunga – doing our best to learn and just to try absorb a bit of his spirit, humility and grace.
Funeral services will be held in Darjeeling on April 28th.
Those who knew him will remember a kind spirit, a powerful mountain climber and simply a great friend. The mountaineering world has lost a true icon.
Phil Ershler
April 22, 2011
We have to take advantage of any sunny day in the spring around here…and unfortunately we’re not talking about spring skiing! There’s work to be done before the 2011 Rainier season officially gets underway and Steven and Larry are checking a couple items off the to do list today.
3 weeks until we kick off the season. Can’t wait!
Tye Chapman
April 21, 2011
Everybody loves photos… so here are some photos sent over from Greg Vernovage and Ang Jangbu from Everest Base camp.
Remember you can follow the Everest Team’s Progress here.
Enjoy!
Tye Chapman
April 18, 2011
Mt. Rainier, at 14,410 feet, is one of the largest and most challenging endurance climbs in the United States. It is the most imposing glaciated peak in the lower 48 States and has long been a premier training ground for climbs such as Denali, Aconcagua and the Himalayas. An attempt of Mt. Rainier is a serious endeavor and one that demands good physical fitness.
It is our goal to help you properly prepare for your upcoming Mt. Rainier climb. We realize that many of our customers have never climbed a large mountain before and are unsure about exactly how to train for a climb of such magnitude. We will try to help by explaining as clearly as possible what will be expected of you physically during your ascent. We have also done our best to outline how to achieve the necessary fitness level. You will be safer, increase your chance of success and enjoy the climb more if you show up in good physical condition.
April 15, 2011
All of our Everest Teams are firing on all cylinders! The Lobuche, Lhohtse and Everest climbers are acclimatizing well, the trekkers are en route and the Sherpas are working hard establishing the camps higher on the mountain.
Keep up with their progress on the Everest Expedition Coverage page.
Tye Chapman
April 13, 2011
By Mark Allen
Graham Zimmerman and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on March 28, and soon spotted a virgin line on the southeast buttress of Mt. Bradley. We made an attempt on March 31. Then, on the evening of April 2, we left camp with 40 hours of food and fuel in a 20-pound second’s pack and a 15-pound leader’s pack, regained our highpoint and established five more pitches. Mid-day we bivied on a prow, sheltered from what loomed above. The 1,500′ day included Zimmerman climbing several M5 pitches and me dealing with sustained 5.9 rock, an A1 tension traverse, and a transition from boots and crampons to rock shoes and back.