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Another Sweet Day on Kili!

September 30th, 2011

It’s always nice to start out the morning with a sat phone call from Kilimanjaro.  Eben Reckord reported in this morning that they had a sweet day going up to and around the Lava Tower at about 14,500 ft. before heading down to camp at Baranco (13,000 ft).  They’re moving so well that the plan is to sleep late and then head up to Karanga tomorrow.  Nothing exciting to report is always good when on a big trip.  It simply means that all is going well.  We expect exactly the same news tomorrow.

~Phil Ershler

Above the clouds now! Hiking above the spectacular Baranco Wall. (Photo by Adam Angel)

Above the clouds now! Hiking above the spectacular Baranco Wall. (Photo by Adam Angel)

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Cho Oyu Descending, Shishapangma Waiting

September 30, 2011

Packing up the yak loads. (Photo by Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Ang Jangbu reports that a number of teams attempted to summit today on Cho Oyu, but they hit deep snow above the Yellow Band, and turned back.  Max and the IMG climbers were at Camp 2 ready to go to Camp 3, but they have decided not to push their luck with the conditions, and turned back too, descending later today to ABC.  They have yaks scheduled to arrive tomorrow, so they are preparing to head home.  Mike Hamill and the Shishapangma climbers are at Camp 1, waiting to see if the conditions improve at all for them.  We’ll keep you posted.

Eric Simonson

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Tibet Climbers Moving Up

September 29, 2011

Ang Jangbu reports that the teams are moving up now on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.  On Cho Oyu, the IMG climbers moved up to Camp 2 today and so far everything is going well for them.  On Shishapangma, the Sherpas went to Camp 1 today to get that camp dug out, and the members are moving up tomorrow, with a plan to reach the summit on October 4.

Eric Simonson

ABC after the storm (Photo: Ang Jangbu)

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Eben Reckord Is At It Again On Kilimanjaro

September 29th, 2011

Porters on their way to Machame Camp at 10,000', IMG Kilimanjaro Climb. (Photo by Adam Angel)

Porters on their way to Machame Camp at 10,000' (Photo by Adam Angel)

Fresh from a trip with 100% of the team reaching the roof of Africa and an amazing safari – IMG Senior Guide, Eben Reckord, is at it again.  Machame Camp at 10,000 ft. yesterday and moving well.  That’s great news as I’ve always thought the first day on the trail was one of the tougher days.  A strong trip to Machame Camp bodes well for the expedition.

Great time to be in Africa.  Summer crowds have lessened somewhat and weather remains good.  I think we’re going to hear lots of positive updates in the next few days.  Shira today and Baranco tomorrow.  Baranco is probably our favorite camp.  Views are just pretty hard to top.

Go get ‘em, Eben!

Phil Ershler

 

 

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Cho Oyu Climbers Headed Back Up

September 28, 2011

Ice pinnacles on the glacier above Adv. Base Camp, on the way to C1 (Photo: Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Ang Jangbu reports that the weather is looking better now, with the jet stream remaining just to the north of the mountain.   Hopefully the wind will die down some more over the next few days.    IMG guide Max Bunce and the remaining team members headed back up to Camp 1 today.  Their plan is to go to C2 tomorrow, C3 the next, and take a shot at the summit on October 1.  We’ll keep you posted!

Eric Simonson

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Snow Ends, Still Windy For Climbers

September 27, 2011

The storms have finally moved to the east and now the skies are clear. However, we still have some strong winds. (Courtesy Gov of Nepal Meteorological Forecasting Division)

I spoke to IMG guides Mike Hamill on Shishapangma and Max Bunce on Cho Oyu.  The big snowstorm has ended, but it remains windy, so there is lots of snow getting scoured from the upper slopes.  The team members are waiting to see if the conditions improve.  Our forecast has the jet stream staying away for another week or so, so there may still be a window for climbers.

Some of the climbers (from both teams) headed back to Kathmandu today.  They had commitments back home and could not wait longer.  For the climbers who are remaining, we’ll be hoping the conditions stabilize soon.

Eric Simonson

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American Himalayan Foundation Dinner

September 27, 2011

American Himalayan Foundation

On behalf of IMG, and as a friend of the Himalayas, we want to let you know about a very special and worthwhile event dedicated to making small miracles happen: the American Himalayan Foundation’s Annual Dinner, Oct 26, 2011.

To Everest!  In attendance will be an impressive summit party (in both senses!) with 40+ ascents among them – numerous Everest climbers, including the world record holder Apa Sherpa.

Also in attendance will be a summiter of a different kind: Dr. Ashok Banskota, Director of the Hospital and Rehab center for Disabled Children in Kathmandu, whose team works miracles for young lives every day, mending the broken limbs and bodies of Nepal’s poorest disabled children.

It will be a very entertaining evening, full of tall tales – and perhaps some poignant ones —and a few surprises. Doing good, being kind, having fun. Please email or call our friend Norbu Tenzing at Norbu@himalayan-foundation.org or call 415-288-7250.

Thank you,

IMG

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The Challenge Of Rainier – 40th Anniversary Edition

September 25, 2011

Challenge Of Rainier 40th Anniversary Edition

The Challenge of Rainier – 40th Anniversary Edition by Dee Molenaar is set to be released in October.

The 40th anniversary edition includes restored illustrations and historical photographs, and a new foreword by Ed Viesturs as well as updated route information, accident statistics, and more through 2010.

To those viewing Mount Rainier from afar, the mountain can be elusive, hiding behind cloud cover. But when it’s fully visible, its beauty stops even jaded locals in their tracks. Even at a distance, the snow-covered volcano seems massive and alluring.

Many Everest veterans have trained on Rainier, honing their skills while working as climbing guides. The first American to reach the summit of Everest, Jim Whittaker, was a Rainier guide during the 1950s, while Ed Viesturs, the first American to climb all fourteen 8000-meter peaks, guided on Rainier during the 1980s. Many climbers aspire to nothing more than to reach Rainier’s summit via one or more of the many and varied routes on the mountains, and hikers enjoy the challenge of the encircling ninety-three-mile Wonderland Trail.

In his classic work of climbing history, The Challenge of Rainier, Dee Molenaar has gathered the human history of Mount Rainier from the first European observations of the mountain in 1792 through the early explorations, historic climbs, and development of the national park, to modern-day speed records and quirky “firsts.” He has drawn not only on his own seventy-year-history with the mountain but also on interviews with notable figures and on guide and park records to compile basic facts about getting around the mountain, personal anecdotes, and accounts of some of the tragedies and amazing survivals that have occurred on its flanks.

Dee Molenaar’s professional association with Mount Rainier began in 1940 when Clark Schurman, then chief guide on the mountain, suggested he “give up milking cows, enroll in college, and guide during the summers.” Dee is nationally known for his detailed maps and illustrations that have appeared in many books and periodicals.

432 pages * 7 x 8 1/2 * 100 B&W photographs * 10 charts * $24.95 * paperbound * ISBN 978-1-59485-520-7

On store shelves October 2011, soon available on Kindle, Nook, other e-book platforms

Published by The Mounaineers Books

 

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Cho Oyu & Shishapangma Climbers Back To ABC

September 25, 2011

Caption: Satellite weather photo for September 25, 2011 (courtesy Gov of Nepal Meteorological Forecasting Division)

The pesky low pressure that was supposed to move east has stalled just south of the Himalayas, causing more wind and snowfall. I spoke on the sat phone to both the Cho Oyu and Shishapangma teams, and both groups have pulled back down to ABC — after moving up to Camp 1.  The wind and snowfall has continued and the conditions have deteriorated so we are back in a holding pattern, to see if the weather improves.  Unfortunately, it sounds like as the monsoon moisture finally moves away, the jet stream will not be far behind!

Eric Simonson

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A couple memorable days of safari

September 24, 2011

Rhino at Ngorongoro Crater. (Photo by Eben Reckord)

The Serengeti was generous yesterday, giving a great day of game viewing.  We started our day with cape buffalo just outside the lodge property, followed up with a pride of fifteen lions, more leopards, cheetahs, elephants and we even came quite close to a collision with a giraffe.  We also added a few more newcomers to the list like, hirax, genets, topi, crocodiles, dik diks, a tremendous number of birds and now we all know the difference between the Grant and Thompson gazelle.

After a full day we pulled into the Ndutu lodge near Lake Masik.  The team gathered in the bar to watch the sun set and talk about what’d we’d seen.  We ate a dinner of lamb and finished the day out by the firepit, looking up at the nights sky as tiny wild creatures scampered about.  Today, we headed to Ngorongoro Crater and finally got to see the elusive Rhino.  In fact, one of them walked right in front of our safari vehicle!  We’ve had a great trip, but soon it will be time for the team members to say goodbye and head for the airport, to catch their homeward flights.

Eben Reckord

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