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From A Guide’s Perspective: Success In The Mountains

November 7, 2011

Part 1 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Jenni Fogle describes a few things that can make or break a climb.

Jenni Fogle

Success and Failure in the Mountains
By Jenni Fogle

I don’t think anyone sets out on a climb expecting to fail. Some may have doubts or apprehension, but most expect to make it to the top. As an IMG guide, I always tell people that my job is to provide them with a safe, enjoyable and successful climb. Success as I see it is not the same for everyone. For many (for most) success is getting to the summit, but this isn’t always the case. I’m often asked, “What can I do to improve my chances for success?” Here are my top five suggestions, in order of least to most importance.

5. Pack only what you need, and nothing that you don’t need. Read the website before you show up for your climb. The people with the lightest, most effective equipment and clothing are those who read and follow the information on the IMG website. If you have questions about gear, call the office. If you are hesitant to spend the money for exactly what you need, just remind yourself that you need to do everything you can to improve your chances of success. You’ve already invested time training and probably money on airfare; how disappointed would you be if you had to turn around on summit day because your hands were just too cold?

4. Train hard. Most people register for their climbs several months in advance. Take advantage of that time to prepare. Join a gym, hire a trainer, or  train with partners. Do whatever it takes to stay motivated. Read the information on the IMG website regarding suggested training programs. Stack the cards in your favor! Get fit and feel better about yourself!

3. Eat well and stay hydrated on the climb. Your body needs fuel and water. Bring foods that you like, but that aren’t too heavy. Fresh foods on the first day are a great idea. The more you eat on your first day, the lighter your load will be, and the better you’ll feel! Drink plenty of water and/or electrolytes.

2. Listen to your guides. Listen to your guides. Listen to your guides. Chances are we’ve spent a lot more time in the mountains than you have, and you can probably learn something from us. That’s why you hired us, right? Our job is to keep you safe and help you have a good time. Trust us; our success is yours.

1. Have a great attitude. To me, success is much more than just getting to the top of a mountain. I’ve climbed with people who didn’t get anywhere near the top of the mountain they  were on but still had the time of their lives! We see many first-time mountaineers at IMG, and climbing a mountain like Rainier is often the hardest thing they’ve ever done. One of the most difficult aspects is facing the unknown. Show up with a sense of adventure, and be ready to make the best of whatever the mountain gives you. A fellow climber once told me the reason he climbs is, “You can’t lie to the mountains. The mountain will show you the truth.” The truth may be that you didn’t train hard enough, you packed too much stuff, the avalanche danger is too high, you don’t have enough energy to continue, or maybe the stars align and you have a fantastic adventure all the way to the summit and down. The truth is it’s all up to you!

I look forward to seeing you on an IMG climb, and wish you success, whatever that means for you!

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Ama Dablam Headed Home – Flights Willing

November 6, 2011

Ama Dablam rises above the village of Pangboche. (Photo by Eric Simonson)

Justin Merle reports that yesterday the climbers successfully descended to Base Camp and the Sherpas brought down the remaining loads.  Today the team descended to Pangboche, the home of our longtime IMG sirdar Ang Pasang, Kami, and a number of our IMG Sherpa team.  Tomorrow the team will hike to Namche.  The Lukla flights were cancelled again today (5 days in a row) so hopefully the weather down lower will clear out soon.

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Team Summits

November 4, 2011

IMG leader Justin Merle called to report that the team had a good day today, with clear and cold weather.  Reaching the summit were Peter, Doug, Mark, Nima Karma, and Chewang Lendu.  Justin and Billy turned back just short of the summit due to Billy’s cold feet.  Billy got his feet warmed up on the descent and sustained no cold injury.  Good call, Billy!   On the descent the team dismantled Camp 2.7 and then Peter and the Sherpas went on down to Camp 1 with the gear and Mark continued all the way to Base Camp.  Justin, Doug, and Billy stopped at Camp 2 for tonight and will descend to BC tomorrow.  Tomorrow we have Kami, Ang Pasang, Chewang and Nima Karma heading back up to pull down the rest of the gear, and the whole team should be to Base Camp by tomorrow evening.

Icy slopes on the Dablam Glacier, below the summit. (Photo by Justin Merle)
Climbers on the Mushroom Ridge below C3. (Photo by Justin Merle)
Ama Dablam Summit with Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse behind. (Photo by Justin Merle)

While the weather up high has stayed clear, down low in the valleys it is still socked in and the Lukla flights remained cancelled for the fourth consecutive day.  It is now estimated that there are 2000 trekkers stuck in Lukla waiting to fly out, and the helicopter charters also have long queues.  This is starting to look like a repeat of last year, when the flights were cancelled for a week!  Fortunately, our crew is not in a big rush and still have several more days of climbing and trekking before they are ready to start thinking about flights.  Walking out to Jiri (4 days from Lukla) or just hanging out in Namche is always a possibility if the weather remains bad down low.

Eric Simonson

 

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Ama Dablam Climbers Eye Summit Attempt

November 3, 2011

Looking down the route from above Camp 3 (Photo by Justin Merle)

Justin Merle reports by sat phone that the Ama Dablam climbers all moved up higher today, and the weather is hanging in there.  Down lower it has been all socked in, with no Lukla flights for three days (the Lobuche climbers got out to KTM on the last flight before the weather set in).

Peter, Doug, Billy, Chewang, and Nima Karma are now at Camp 2.7 and Justin and Mark are at Camp 2.  The later will leave earlier, and meet the others higher up.  We are using Camp 2.7 now, instead of Camp 3, because there is less hazard from falling ice there.  We’ll be looking forward to hearing how it goes tomorrow!

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna & Chulu Team Back In Kathmandu

November 2, 2011

The Team at Thorung La Pass. (Eben Reckord photo)

Eben Reckord shot us a call and a team photo to say everyone was now back safe and sound to Kathmandu.  Yesterday the team flew from Jomsom to Pohkara, and had a fun day exploring that town, known for the great views of the Annapaurnas from the shore of Dal Lake.  Today they flew from Pohkara back to Kathmandu.  Good job, team!

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Climbers Move To Camp 2

November 2, 2011

Justin Merle reports by sat phone that Peter, Doug, Billy, Chewang, and Nima Karma moved up to Camp 2 today, while Justin and Mark moved up to Camp 1.  The route to Camp 2 is mainly rock climbing, along the ridge, punctuated but the “Yellow Tower” which requires a short near vertical pitch to get around it.   Camp 2 is a Classic, right on the ridge crest!  The plan for tomorrow is to move to Camp 2.7.

Ridge between C1 and C1. (Photo by Justin Merle)
Looking down at C2. (Photo by Justin Merle)

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Climbers Reach Camp 1

November 1, 2011

Camp 1 on top of the ridge. Note the climber in red just over halfway up the slope. (Photo by Justin Merle)

Justin Merle reports by sat phone that Peter, Doug, Roger, Billy, Chewang Lendu, Nima Karma, and Kami all made it up to Camp 1 today (19350 ft / 5900m).  They will see how they are feeling tomorrow—they may go to Camp 2 or take a rest day.

Justin is at BC with Mark and Sierra and they are hoping to move up tomorrow.  It sounds like Chewang Lendu and Nima Karma went to Camp 2 yesterday and set up 3 tents and also took some of the gear up for the high camp (Camp 2.7).

They said the route is looking good and everything is in place for the summit bids.

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna Crew In Muktinath, Ama Dablam Climbers To Base Camp

October 30, 2011

Dhaulagiri (8,167m / 26,795 ft) from Muktinath (Charlotte Austin)
Ama Dablam from BC (Justin Merle)

Guides Eben Reckord and Charlotte Austin reported from Muktinath, where they are taking a rest day after crossing the Thorung La Pass yesterday.  Today they visited the famous temple, which is a sacred place for both Buddhists and Hindus, and the goal of many pilgrims.  They had great views of Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest mountain at  8,167 m (26,795 ft).

Over in the Khumbu, guides Justin Merle and Peter Anderson report that the team made it to Base Camp and today had their expedition puja.  The sherpas have already established Camp 1, so everything should be ready for them to move up in the next day or two.

Eric Simonson

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Farewell, Bhutan

October 27, 2011

Bhutan

Phil called in early this morning from Thimphu, (about 4pm in Bhutan) to report that the team was just loading up for the hour’s drive to Paro, where they will spend tonight.

Tomorrow morning they will hop a direct flight to Bangkok, where some will continue on flights back home to family and friends, and others will spend a little extra time visiting Thailand.

Thanks to all the team members for a successful trek!

Becky Kjorvestad

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Summits!

October 27, 2011

Justin Merle called last night from the summit of Lobuche Peak to report that the weather was perfect, the view fantastic, and the team 100% on the top.  Way to go gang!

Since that call, we later heard from Justin that the climbers were all back to Lobuche Base Camp (and the trekkers flew today from Lukla to KTM).  Tomorrow the Ama Dablam climbers will head for Pangboche, where they link up with Ang Pasang and the Ama Dablam Sherpa team (who have been getting the BC set up over there).

Over on Chulu Peak, Eben Reckord called on the sat phone to report that the team took a summit shot today, but got turned back just shy of 20,000.  Sounds like they had an avalanche hazard concern, and decided to play it safe.   The team is back to BC now and getting ready to continue their trek to Thoroung La, tomorrow.  Good job, team!

Eric Simonson

Lobuche Peak (Photo by Eric Simonson)
Chulu Peak (Photo by David Brill)

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