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Grilled Steak & A Nice Malbec

February 8, 2012

Our lower trekking camp.

Mike Hamill called in from Pampa de Llenas, our first trekking camp en route to Plaza Argentina on Aconcagua. Perfect weather and great scenery made for a wonderful day on the trail.  They finished off the day with some Asado (grilled steak) and a nice Argentinian Malbec. Not too shabby for Aconcagua.

Day 2 on the trail awaits!

Tye Chapman

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Aconcagua Team Back At C1

February 8, 2012

The approach to C2 (Photo by Tye Chapman)

Greg called in to report that all is well back at Camp 1. The team had a solid carry to Camp 2 today, dropping off some of items they don’t necessarily need now, but will need up higher on the mountain. Common items carried and cached are ice axes, crampons, extra food and fuel. “Climb high, sleep low” is the mantra in the mountains – especially on Aconcagua.

Camp 2 sits a stones throw under 18,000ft, likely a high point for most of the team, but they’re not done just yet. They’ll make the return trip to C2 tomorrow and move in for the night.

Tye Chapman

 

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Mexico Team Acclimatized And Ready

February 8, 2012

Orizaba from a distance.

Phil called this afternoon to report that they had a little more snow overnight at the hut, but the team still had a good acclimatization hike today.

They’re calling for some more snow later this week so they’ll head up tonight and see if they can sneak in a climb before this front moves in.  Everybody is doing great and plans on climbing tonight.

Tye Chapman

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Orizaba Team Acclimatizing Well

February 7, 2012

Orizaba (Photo by Phil Ershler)

Phil Ershler called to check-in this afternoon. They have had nice hiking up through the forest the past two days and have climbed above treeline to reach the Piedra Grande Hut where they will spend the next two nights.

The team is strong and healthy and Phil is looking forward to leading them all to the summit in two days. Tomorrow they will take an acclimatization hike up from the hut and then an early departure for the summit the following day if all goes according to schedule. There is a new covering of snow on the mountain which brightens everything up and Phil says conditions look good.

George Dunn

 

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Ice Climbing With Perry

February 7, 2012

It has been a couple of years since I made it out to Ouray, CO. Not by choice, just by circumstance. I’ve missed it. I love the scene here and the way the town embraces ice climbers and makes them feel like favored guests.

So I agreed to meet up with my long time friend Perry Julien. He’s been out of action for about 6 years with a serious leg injury. He really did a number on it. Skiing, not climbing just to be clear. He can only bend the leg a limited amount.

Most people in this situation would give up on all outdoor activities. Not Perry. He is not one to listen to anyone who tells him he can’t do what he wants to. He likes to travel, have adventures and see the world. Perry is a fun guy to hang out with! Anyway, we agreed to meet in Ouray this year to see what we could do. Me, to get back on the ice after a time away. Perry to see if it was still possible.

Let er rip! Perry goes for the top.
Hanging in Ouray. (left to right) Perry, guides Max Bunce, George Dunn and Justin Merle

The first day the big test was hiking down the climbers’ approach into the “Schoolroom”, a classic top-roping area. I was nervous at first, but Perry relied on his past climbing skills and was able to lower himself and work his way down the steep descent using the fixed hand lines and lots of careful steps down the icy “trail”. We both agreed that just being in the Ice Park made it a successful trip and it was a beautiful day. The understanding was that Perry would test his leg with a couple of short steps on the ice. My job was to provide a ready belay and keep him from any drops if he slipped. So we geared up. I set up a top rope on a 75 foot route of WI III-IV difficulty. Not too stiff for a good climber, but hard enough.

The first time up about 20 feet was a bit of a struggle. Try to kick in crampon front points with a leg you can’t bend! Perry figured out he had to set up his leg so he could take short steps on it.

It wasn’t pretty, but it didn’t hurt and he was game for another go. So he went up again. Looking a lot smoother this time and just a bit higher. After a brief rest, he wanted to give it another go. He worked up to his previous high point and rested for a bit. Then he kept going. I knew he was going for the top. Not to prove anything mind you… just to set it out there that as far as he is concerned, anything and everything is possible.

It was a fun couple of days in Ouray. We already have more plans on the table. Ouray for sure, next year. Maybe a climb of Rainier in the summer. Most definitely Kilimanjaro in January 2013. For our wives, mind you. They want in on the fun too. I can’t wait. It is always a fun time with Perry.

George Dunn

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Loaded Up & Ready To Go

February 7, 2012

We got a quick note and photo from Hamill this morning.

The Crew

 Hey Gang,

Attached is the team photo. The van is loaded and we’re heading up to Penitentes.

Mike

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Kili team on safari; Craig John celebrates 20 successful ascents

Long Time IMG Guide, Craig John

February 7, 2012

Craig John called on the sat phone to report that the team is having a great time on their safari.  Today they saw five leopards and a rhino in the Serengeti, which is quite unusual.  The team has also been enjoying our luxury safari camp “in the bush”.  This morning Craig said he had a hyena outside his tent!  Among the evening toasts made by the team has been for Craig’s 20th successful Kilimanjaro climb (out of 20 attempts).  Way to go Craig!   I remember the Craig’s very first Kili trip, as my assistant guide, many moons ago.  Since then, Craig has been to the top of Africa in a variety of months, with many people, in many different weather conditions.  He will be the first to tell you that every trip is different, and Kilimanjaro always seems to deliver some sort of surprise along the way.  Tomorrow the team is off to Ngorongoro Crater via Olduvai Gorge, for their final day/night on safari, before heading back to civilization.

Eric Simonson

Rhino. (Photo by Adam Angel)

Cheetah on Serengeti (Photo by Adam Angel)

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Aconcagua Team #5 Arrives In Mendoza

February 6, 2012

Mountain View

IMG Guide Mike Hamill, leading the fifth Aconcagua team of the season, checked in to let us know that most of the team has arrived in Mendoza with the last few members coming in this afternoon.

The food and gear is all packed,  and they’ll be ready to head up to Penitentes tomorrow morning.

Becky Kjorvestad

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Ready, Set, Go!

February 6, 2012

Orizaba in the distance - (Photo: Phil Ershler)

6:00 a.m. check-in call from Phil Ershler this morning.  After a scenic drive to Tlachichuca yesterday, the crew had some time to sort gear & pack up, followed by dinner.  A few hours’ hike today will bring them to their camp in the forest at about 12000 ft.

where they’ll spend the night acclimatizing, then hike the remaining distance to the Piedra Grande hut on Pico de Orizaba tomorrow morning.  Weather continues to cooperate, good news for the team.  All’s well.

Becky Kjorvestad

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Orizaba Team In Mexico City

February 5, 2012

Phil called in early this morning from Mexico City, where the gang was ready to leave the hotel and move on to Tlachichuca.  A good crew, favorable weather – the stage is set.

Becky Kjorvestad

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