April 11, 2012

IMG 2012 Annapurna 4 expedition team (L-R Joe, Emily, Eben, Miss Hawley, David, Jarno, Steve)

IMG leaders Eben Reckord and Emily Johnston report that the A4 team is now on their way to Besisahar.  Yesterday the team had the chance to meet Liz Hawley in person.  Liz is the original Himalayan historian. She has lived in Kathmandu and kept track of the climbers since 1960!

Nowadays it is normally her staff that interview the climbing teams, but Liz is always interested to meet, in-person, with teams going to adventurous places, and she was happy to see off the A4 climbers.  Liz told the team stories about Sir Edmund Hillary making it especially memorable for the team.

If you want the definitive record of Himalayan climbing, see her Himalayan Database.

Eric Simonson

April 9, 2012

Eben presenting the Annapurna IV permit

IMG guide Eben Reckord did the briefing today at the Ministry, and received the official permit for Annapurna 4.

The team members have all arrived now in Kathmandu, with their luggage, which is always a good way to start a trip.  The Base Camp cooks and porters have now left Kathmandu for the trailhead with 60 loads of tents, fuel, food and supplies to start getting BC set up ahead of the expedition.  So, everything is looking good and the team is looking forward to starting the trek.

Their route will take them by bus to Besisahar ( the start of the Annapurna Circuit) and then to Bulbule, where they begin 8 days of trekking to Base Camp.  They will follow the main Annapurna route as far the small town of Humre (just before Manang), where they go up a side valley, and climb to the site of the Base Camp.

Eric Simonson

April 7, 2012

Some of the loads of gear and food. (Photo by Eben Reckord)

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that he made it to Kathmandu, with all his luggage, and that the other team members are also starting to arrive.  Eben and Pasang Tshering have the ministry briefing  scheduled for Sunday, April 8 (where we will receive the official permit).

A4 sirdar Phinjo and cook Pasang Nuri have finished the final shopping  and packing, and now have about 60 loads ready to go to A4 Base Camp.  Tomorrow Pasang Nuri and Sante Tamang will leave Kathmandu with these loads by bus, along with 20 porters, for Besisahar. These men will start on the trail to BC, with the balance of their loads going by mules from Bulbule.

The plan is all starting to come together now!

Eric Simonson

April 6, 2012

Annapurna IV (Photo by Brad Clement)

What makes Annapurna 4 different?
Annapurna may be new to IMGs line up but this isn’t the first time IMG has run an expedition to this mountain.   In 1987 Eric Simonson & Craig John and a few adventurous clients made it to 7000m on the peak, but we’re forced off the mountain due to a massive snow storm.

Twenty five years later, that trip continues.  Now, I can’t say exactly what the last 500m to the summit will be like, so I’m excited that there is an element of the unknown with this peak for everybody.  Without a doubt we all are as prepared as we could ever be; we’ve read all there is to read and studied the pictures, we’ve even gone on google maps to simulate the climb, but unlike many of the other peaks I’ve climbed, I can honestly say I don’t know exactly what will be around the corner.   It definitely presents a great guiding challenge, and the opportunity to go where very few people have ever been before.  Though their footsteps are long gone, I’m excited to retrace those of Eric and Craig. This  is going to be a great adventure for all involved.

What are you looking forward to most?
Four years ago I sat in a tent at Karanga camp on Kilimanjaro listening Craig John talk about his attempt on Annapurna IV in 1987.  He talked passionately about the brilliant ridge climbing and described it as one of the most beautiful peaks he’d ever been on.  I have to admit that I was a little embaressed because though I had walked the Annapurna circuit two years prior to hearing Craig talk about A4 I couldnt place the peak mentally.  Everything is so big over there that I spent my entire time just in awe.  Fast forward a few years to  last fall when I lead IMGs first expedition to Chulu West along the Annapurna circuit.  This time I was on the lookout during our approach to Chulu, not yet knowing I’d be leading the Annapurna IV trip. We we’re able to spend a couple days walking along side and underneath Annapurna IV.  CJ was right, the mountain was beautiful. I didn’t know when it was going to happen, but I told myself one day I would be back to guide A4.  The stars aligned, Simo gave me a call, and as I type this email to Tye, I’m sitting at SEATAC on my way. Pretty cool stuff.

What kind of climb are you expecting?
The research we’ve done tells me we’re looking at a very exciting climb.  To start, we’ve got a seven day trek into base camp, which offers some of the most incredible views and interesting trekking terrain I’ve ever experienced.  After we acclimitize at base camp, our first objective will be to get through the 1000ft. rock band that will give us access to the ridge and our first camp.   From Camp 1 we are looking at navigating our way up the ridge where we will be met with moderate rolling terrain with the potential for some short sections of steep climbing.  I anticipate this to be magnificent!  From there on up to camp three we will have to find a way over the bergschrund (a very large crevasse formed from the top of the glacier pulling away from the mountain).   Once we get past the “schrund” we’ll be weaving our way across the top of the ridge where we may trade the fixed lines for more traditional glacier travel to reach C3.  From there I think we will be using a mix of fixed lines and traditional glacier travel with the possibility of a little bit of rock before reaching the summit at 24,700ft.    A little bit of everything and I can’t wait.

Eben Reckord