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Alaska!

April 20, 2012

Alaska!

After eaking out a day of cragging, on rock just dry enough, I turned my attention to packing for IMG’s expedition to Mt. Bona.  The weather in the Cascades has been shifty this week, lamb-like then lion, reminding me to prepare for a wide span of conditions in the larger mountain range of the Wrangell-St. Elias.  From the pile of gear on the basement floor, I sifted out puffy jackets, overboots, high calorie toe warming snacks and, then, sunscreen, a zinc stick and the most paper-thin UV resisting shell I could find.  As I wrangled my -20 degree F sleeping bag into a tight compression sack, the rising cry of a fire truck siren met my ear from a distant arterial street.  I wondered what the emergency could be- something serious or just a minor accident?  I worried about whether the traffic was bad on the interstate, I needed to do some errands.  My phone buzzed on the counter with an incoming text, I should look at it, the phone won’t stop buzzing until I do.  The irritating, “beep, beep, beep” of a service truck in reverse banged at my head.  I checked the text and noticed another new email, something else demanding my time and attention, and there were so many other emails I needed to attend to… And then, I thought, “I cannot wait to get to the mountain.”

Our lives are easily overrun by the machinations of modern society, leaving us harried and distracted.  I have found that I easily “brown out” when too many devices and demands simultaneously require attention, when the flow of life paces at 80 miles an hour on the interstate, when the cacophony of the urban matrix reaches its crescendo.  Wild places offer us solace in large part because they allow us to slow down and attend to a distilled set of basic needs.  And, Alaska, with its abundant wildness, offers ample opportunity for such reprieve.  For this reason, my mind settles peacefully at the thought of Mt. Bona.  It’s just going to be us, our packs and sleds, and the embrace of enormous mountains.  We’ll spend our time marveling at the beauty, exercising our bodies, establishing camps, moving up the glacier, feeding ourselves, sleeping plenty and enjoying the camaraderie of the only seven people around.

Fast forward to today… Here we are, driving down the GlenAllen highway, with the Chugach Range on the right, the Alaska Range to the north, and a vanload of personalities in the back.  So far, the trip is off to a great start. The weather is sunny and pleasant, we’re moving on schedule, and the crew looks like they’re going to gel fantastically. Hopefully, we’re able to fly onto the glacier this afternoon! Signing off until our first check in from the mountain!

Erica Engle

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Hey, Where’s Your Parka?

April 19, 2012

Richard Harvey put together this poem after our most recent Denali Prep Seminar on Mt. Rainier. Pretty cool stuff!

Enjoy the read.

Tye Chapman

Richard and Co. at The Flats on Mt. Rainier.

Hey, Where’s your Parka?
By Richard Harvey

As the moon came up and the sun went down
We eyed each other up and dreamt of the snow
Anxious but keen each went through their stuff
Name, rank and something interesting Tapp wanted to know

The guides stripped our bags of luxury and comfort
Even while the rental signature was still wet with ink
“Only take one pair of undies” he insisted without smiling
“When I’m finished with you, we’re all gonna stink”

So we crept in the bunkhouse and waited for dawn
The chill outside grew suddenly sharper
We hoped we were prepared but only time would tell
Some still received the drill “Hey, where’s your Parka?”

So we loaded the kit and took to the powder
The further we got the silence grew louder
To camp one we made haste grunting with sleds
Full of fuel “not with the food”, stoves, wands and who knows what chowder

That night we fed well on IMG’s marvels
We thought life is good, Denali’ll be easy
They set up two heads and the circus was pitched
It was then that the blue bags started to itch

Up the snowfield higher and higher
To Muir one step at a time
Breath getting shorter
We continued to climb

Ice Station Zebra came into view
Into the freezing pit we crawled
Unknowing that the next days
Even our toothpaste wouldn’t even get thawed

Patience slowly ebbed in that frozen wasteland
Zeus’s breath blew blizzards filling every crack and pit
We hunkered down and learnt of each others worlds
Some were sombre, others full of twisted wit

But we braved the elements and learnt the trade
Our masterful guides provided their best
Knots and anchors, crevasse rescue came next
And some of us received our first airborne arrests

On the nights when the wind blew white and relentless
Tapp’s steely eyes filled us with stories of terror and wonder
“On Denali Hexadecamethabiozanethanodiamox is the one you’ll need…”
We knew he was right when the Doctor silently agreed

Each day our clothes grew increasingly wet
No doubt these were the toughest guides we’d ever met
But the days of pain continued to get longer
And the howling winds grew hauntingly stronger

Day by day the toilet paper ran low
Some dreamt of frolicking ladies far below
During stories of Kashmir some tended feet beginning to swell
While the military guys made notes to take back to intel

And then Tapp gave the news
“Bring your clothes, every last one, we’re going for the top”
Adrenaline pumping, our nerves never sharper
We double checked out stuff “Hey, where’s your Parka?”

Predawn we crunched, traversing the ice
Except the more nervous, all silent as mice
But in the end the freezing, circling blizzard
And avalanche danger kicked our hopes in the gizzards

Back down we descended
Past Ingraham’s icy jaws and crevasses
The guides kept our spirits high with
Klemheists, Autoblocks and lashes

The Fahrenheit plummeted into the singles
Strangers came to give us their angles
We bonded playing cards late into the night
Citizen Cope warmed our hearts like a flicker of light

We knew things outside were getting bad
When Ershler was thwarted and our cookies turned back
So we hunkered down and shivered and shook
And wished that just one of us had bought a book

Then a hint of blue painted the zenith
We took to fixed lines and dug pits in the snow
And built a boys dream and all crammed in a snow cave
Smiling and happy, all dug with unbelievable gusto

And finally our bittersweet moment came to depart
To Paradise and showers and (thankfully) no more talk of South Park
We ran, slid and fell, just getting our way down
The guides skiing making us all look like clowns

As we spotted Tye we all started to grin
We knew that we’d made it and were close to the gin
Through the burgers, beers and our Copper Creek laughter
We could still here our leader’s echo calling
“Hey, where’s your Parka?”

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Annapurna 4 Team Moving To Base Camp

April 19, 2012

 

 

IMG Annapurna 4 team (David, Emily, Jarno, Joe, Eben) near Manang, with Annapurna 2 and 4 in the background (photo-Eben Reckord)

IMG guides Eben Reckord and Emily Johnston report from Humre that the A4 team is doing well:   “For starters the weather is seeming to make a change for the better.  After five days of rain we have now had three days of sunshine in a row.  We’ve had a chance to dry our gear out and recharge our batteries.  On Tuesday the Sherpas made a trail to BC through lingering winter snow and yeterday the donkeys carried all the gear necessary for our expedition to Base Camp.  That’s great news for our team and a huge relief.  The team have been resting, training and acclimatizing in and around Humre and Manang. We received a blessing from the local lama and had time to enjoy a fine Italian Lattes made with frothed powdered milk in Manang.  Along with taking in the sights and building up our red blood cells, we have been getting our climbing systems dialed in.  The team continues to stay healthy and is looking forward to making our way to Base Camp.

Wish us luck!

Eben Reckord

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Ama Dablam Team Reaches Namche

April 18, 2012

The Ama Dablam team at the beginning of the trek in Lukla ( Left to right Eric, Ingrid, Solveig, Natalie, Chris, Ted, Liam)

IMG Ama Dablam leader Liam O’Sullivan reports that the team has now reached Namche, and that everything is going well for them.  They will take several days in Namche, for acclimatization, before heading on up the valley.

Meanwhile, Kami Sherpa is heading up to Ama Dablam Base Camp to start working on the route and getting the camps set up.  Liam and the climbers will proceed slowly up to Everest BC for acclimatization, then climb Lobuche Peak, before heading over to Ama Dablam.  After 10 expeditions to Ama Dablam, we know that it is super critical to get the team well acclimatized.  Ama Dablam is one of those peaks on which it is easy to get too high, too fast!

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Team On The Trail

April 17, 2012

IMG guide Liam O’Sullivan reports that the Ama Dablam team successfully flew to Lukla today, and had a nice trek to Phakding, down by the river.

On the trail to Phakding. (Photo by Eric Simonson)
Carved rock boulders on the way to Phakding.

Along the way they passed through the small village of Ghat, which is remembered by trekkers as the site of many chortens, mani stone walls, prayer wheels, and boulders painted with Tibetan mantras.  Quite the interesting place!

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna IV Team Closing In On Base Camp

April 17, 2012

Annapurna 2 and 4 from across the valley near Chulu Far East. The route to A4 Base Camp ascends the valley on the right, then climbs up to the left onto the prominent bench below the peaks. You can see the airstrip in the small town of Humre at the base of the mountains. (Photo: Mingma Sherpa)

IMG Leader Eben Reckord reports that the team is taking a rest day in Humre (11000 ft / 3350m) at the base of Annapurna 4.  This town is a great location for enjoying the views of the Chulu Peaks to the north, and the Annapurna peaks to the south. IMG Sherpas Phinjo and Pasang Tshering took a run up to Base Camp to survey the route.  They came back saying that there was several feet of fresh snow up there.  So, it will take a couple days to get everything up to the campsite.  In the meantime, the team is healthy and doing well with their acclimatization.

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Team Getting Ready

April 16, 2012

Kami and Liam at the Ministry, with the Ama Dablam permit.

IMG leaders Liam O’Sullivan and Ang Chirring (Kami) Sherpa report that they got the official permit yesterday at the Ministry of Tourism.

Today they will finish the gear checks and final packing, with departure for Lukla scheduled for early tomorrow morning.

So far so good!

Eric Simonson

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Make Way For The Goats!

April 14, 2012

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that the team’s first few days of trekking have gone well, and they are now in Bradang (2850m).  From Kathmandu the team drove west on the Pohkara road, a beautiful drive through central Nepal.  When they reached the Marsyangdi River Valley, they turned to the north, to Besisahar.  Then, from there, the road has been extended a bit further to Bulbule, which is now the trailhead.  Yesterday the team got a nice view of Manaslu.

Day one of the Annapurna trek. (Photo by Eben Reckord)
Actual road construction (Photo by Eben Reckord)

Eben says:  “it has been raining a ton in the afternoons and evenings, but we’ve managed for the most part to stay dry and out of the rain.   There has been a  lot of movement on the trail with donkeys, sheep, brahma bulls, chickens, mongooses and monkeys.  Today is Nepali New Year, so there are a lot of local people traveling to visit friends and celebrate. At one point we had to get out of the way of a whole herd of goats that was being herded down the trail!  Work continues on the road up to Chame.  Two days back we were asked to stay put by two soldiers while dynamite blasts cleared more of the road across the valley.  Needless to say it’s been an exciting walk in so far.  We hope to get to Humre tomorrow and base camp in just a few days.  The team is all happy and healthy and ready to get climbing”.

Eric Simonson

 

 

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Mt. Baker This Summer – Great Idea

April 12, 2012

Since Mt. Baker is relatively new to the IMG lineup let’s take a look at the spec sheet:

Height:*10, 781 (4th highest in WA).
Weight: This is an excellent question. First you take ∏ • r² (Pi times radius squared) to get the area of a circle. Next you take into account the density of water vs. magma…add in the massive snowfall (see record below)…carry the 1 and you come up with… climbing Baker is easier than math.
Record:  Undefeated. It is a volcano!
Official Record: *1140 inches of snowfall (1998-99).
Glaciers: *13. Covering 16 square miles.
First Climbed: *1868 (Edmund Thomas Coleman)
(*Source: US Forest Service)

Mt. Baker

Forget the math and join us on the Easton Glacier on Mt. Baker in the North Cascades. Whether you’re a first time climber or a seasoned veteran of the Pacific Northwest we’re certain you won’t be disappointed.

Dates
July 19-21, 2012
August 4-6, 2012 (one space left)
August 24-26, 2012 (three spaces left)

Landcost: $850 (includes guides, group gear, breakfasts & dinners – among other things).

Tye Chapman

 

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Stop Girl Trafficking In Nepal

April 11, 2012

For the past seven years, my wife, Sue, and I have been supporting the American Himalayan Foundation’s Stop Girl Trafficking program. IMG has been working in Nepal for a couple of decades now and cares deeply about the people there.  Trafficking is a huge problem.  Every year, as many as 20,000 girls from the poorest parts of Nepal are trafficked.  There is a way to help.

Education is the answer.

Education is the way…  This year the program supports 9,500 girls in 400 schools across Nepal and not one has been lost to trafficking.

If you live in the San Francisco area, we would love to invite you to attend the Stop Girl Trafficking evening on April 30.  Or, for info and reservations, call:  (415) 288-7250. If you don’t live in San Francisco learn more on how to give here.

Special guests include:
Siddharth Kara: the global perspective
Harvard Fellow and author of Sex Trafficking: Inside the Business of Modern Slavery

Dr. Aruna Uprety: the visionary
AHF’s partner in RHEST’s game-changing prevention work in Nepal

Jon Krakauer: the advocate, author
Fresh from an investigative field visit to the trafficking villages

Sue and I visited with Dr. Aruna and a group of the girls last May while we were in Nepal.  I can’t tell you how impressed we were.  It costs so little to give a girl a whole new life!

And, say hello to Sue while you’re at the dinner.

Phil Ershler

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