Bona Team Back At Camp

April 28, 2012

George just checked in via sat phone… the team is now back at camp after a successful day on the upper mountain of Mt. Bona. They didn’t quite tag the top, but all members of the team had a great day climbing on the 16,421ft. extinct/dormant shield volcano in Wrangell/St. Elias National Park.

They turned a few hundred feet shy of the summit, and to quote George: “It was the right decision at the right time. We’re all back at camp now, tired and 100% happy with our decision. We’ll head back down to the ‘landing strip’ [read flat glacier] tomorrow and if all goes as planned we’ll fly off shortly thereafter.”

Tye Chapman

Bona Team Holding Tight

April 27, 2012

Quick call from George Dunn this evening reporting that the team was socked in again today. They’ve got one more contingency day before they surrender to the power of Mt. Bona. No worries – they’re having a blast and have enjoyed every minute of the climb thus far.

More tomorrow…

Tye Chapman

Nepal Weekend Wrap-up

April 27, 2012

Cho Oyu and Everest from the south. (Photo by Eric Simonson)

Everything is going well in Nepal for our IMG teams.Â Greg Vernovage reports that the Everest and Lhotse Sherpa teams have now established the route to Camp 3, and the IMG climbers have all been up to Camp 2 nowÂ for acclimatization.Â The Hybrid team will be starting their second rotation tomorrow, with the goal being to sleep at Camp 3.

On Annapurna 4, Eben Reckord reports that everyone made it down to Base Camp safe and sound, and now they are enjoying a couple rest days.Â Today Thunang and Phinjo ran a load of tents, fixed rope, and pickets up to Camp 1 and tomorrow they are going back up to start working on getting the Camp 2 and 3 established in preparation for the teamâ€™s next rotation.

Liam Oâ€™Sullivan and the Ama Dablam crew are pulling into Everest BC today, after a couple days of acclimatization hiking from Lobuche BC.

Over on Ama Dablam, Kami Sherpa reports that they have the climbing route now fixed up to Camp 3 and Kami, Kalden and Ang Sona are now working on getting the camps established.

Jenni Fogle and the custom trek team are doing well in Dingboche now, enjoying an acclimatization day before they head up to Lobuche Base Camp.

So, we are all super psyched with the progress so far and will be keeping you up to date on their comings and goings.

Eric Simonson

Route Established To 14K On Bona

April 26, 2012

The upper mountain on Mt. Bona

Just off the phone from George who reports that today was their first truly warm and sunny day. They used it wisely, exploring the upper mountain looking for a solid route up high. They were successful in finding a route up to 14K (they’re at 12K now).

They’re running short on days so as weather permits they’ll head for the top.Â They’re a strong team so this is perfectly within their capabilities.

Go get it guys!

Tye Chapman

Up, Up, And Away!

April 26, 2012

It’s been a fantastic week in Smith Rocks!Â Yesterday, after some smaller objectives earlier in the week, we set our sights high and went after one of America’s classic climbs – Monkey Face, via the west face variation.Â â€œThe Monkeyâ€ as the locals call it, is a 500 ft freestanding pillar.Â From the top you can see all of central Oregon, an absolutely stunning view.Â We started out at 8am and hit the ground safe and sound by 3pm, quite a long day, but very rewarding.

: Smith Rocks. Bend, Oregon.

: Smith Rocks

: Monkey Face

: Mid route on Monkey Face

The route consists of five pitches of 5.8 climbing.Â The most difficult pitch was the aid pitch.Â Climbing up 16 bolts to the mouth of the Monkey.Â This bolt ladder takes climbers up incredibly steep and overhanging terrain.Â Mark, Brannon, and Mimi were all able to cut their teeth on free hanging rope ascension, a very useful skill for crevasse rescue, big wall climbing, and fixed rope travel.Â The final pitch of the route goes out of the mouth and off Panic point, the most difficult 5.6 ever.Â Its incredibly positive climbing but the exposure is hard to stomach, what an adventure! Once on top the team descends via a 200ft free hanging rappel.

The Smith Rocks seminar has been quite rewarding.Â Each day builds on the skills learned the previous day. A great learning environment for any climber!

Austin Shannon

Annapurna 4 Team Pushes Route To Camp 2

April 26, 2012

: Looking up summit ridge. (Photo by Craig John)

: Looking up from above Camp 1, towards Camp 2. (Photo by Craig John)

I spoke to IMG Guide Eben Reckord by sat phone and he reports that everything is going well.Â Yesterday saw Eben, Thunang, and Phinjo pushing the route up to Camp 2, near the ridge crest.Â It was exciting for them to finally gain the ridge crest, and see the route up the summit ridge in front of them!Â Along the way to Camp 2, they fixed 400m of rope on some of the steeper parts of the route, and then descended back to Camp 1.Â Today the Sherpas descended to BC and the members are all taking another acclimatization day at Camp 1 (17,500ft) before heading back down to Base Camp in the morning for some home cooking.Â So far so good!

Eric Simonson

Mountain Mandated Rest Day

April 25, 2012

IMG Camp On Bona (Photo by Mark Allen)

George called in once more from Base Camp on Mt. Bona yesterday afternoon reporting that though they had found a great route up to Camp 2 and had carried a weekâ€™s supply of food up to camp, the weather in the Wrangells had turned slightly for the worse.Â The team awoke to white out conditions with light snowfall.Â The mountain had determined that it was a good rest day for the team, so theyâ€™ll take it.

George mentioned that he may not check in every day, so if you donâ€™t see a post tomorrow, donâ€™t worry all is well.Â Just remember: â€œNo news is good news.â€

Weâ€™ll keep you updated when we hear from the team next!

Clarissa Morford

IMG Teams On The Move In The Khumbu

April 25, 2012

Up on Everest, we have now have IMG climbers at Base Camp, Camp 1, Camp 2 and the Sherpas are getting ready to head for Camp 3 in the next couple days.Â Follow their progress on our Everest Expedition Coverage Page.

Down the valley, we have both our Ama Dablam and our Custom EBC Trek team heading for Everest Base Camp. Â IMG guide Jenni Fogle reports from Namche that the â€œMaidaâ€™s Mountaineersâ€ Â trek team is doing well.Â They have enjoyed good weather the last couple days as they cross suspension bridges, dodge yaks and porters on the trail, and enjoy the spectacular vistas that have unfolded as they gained altitude.Â After their first night in Phakding, they climbed the famous â€œNamche Hillâ€ Â where they spent the last couple nights as guests of our old friend Pemba, and his staff, at the Khumbu Lodge.Â Now the team heads for the rhododendron forests of Deboche, where they will enjoy a couple days to visit Tengboche monastary and the surrounding area.

: Yak sizzler plate at Khumbu Lodge (Ted H.)

: Prayer wheels along the trail (Ted H.)

: Maidaâ€™s Mountaineers at Khumbu Lodge

Meanwhile, IMG guide Liam Oâ€™Sullivan, Phu Tashi Sherpa, and the Ama Dablam team wrapped up two days of acclimatization hiking in the Pheriche area, and are heading today to Lobuche Base Camp, prior to the big push up to EBC.

Eric Simonson

Nice Day For Rock Climbing

April 24, 2012

Smith Rocks (photo: Austin Shannon)

Austin and team checked in from sunny Smith Rocks this morning as theyâ€™re preparing to head out for another great day of rock climbing.Â Austin mentioned that there is a chance of thundershowers today.Â Hopefully it wonâ€™t be a repeat of yesterday evening when they were being chased back to camp by some threatening black clouds.Â The team is going strong and is enjoying the spectacular â€œsummerâ€ weather.

We hope that the forecast of 72 degrees holds true without the rumble of a storm!

Clarissa Morford

Annapurna 4 Climbers Reach Camp 1

April 24, 2012

Annapurna 3, as seen from Annapurna 4 (Craig John)

IMG guide Emily Johnston called on the sat phone from Camp 1 (about 17,500ft) to report that the team were all tucked in, after a great day today.Â The weather was perfect, and the team were treated to great views of Annapurna 2, 3, and Manaslu along the way.Â They installed 400 meters of fixed rope, anchored to pitons and pickets, to protect the climb up to Camp 1 (which is above the rock buttress). Â Everyone carried heavy packs, and they were able to move enough gear and supplies up with them to last for several days.

The plan for tomorrow is to start working the route up to the ridge crest, with the goal to place Camp 2 up near the junction with the summit ridge. Â So far so good!

Eric Simonson