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2012 Rainier Season In Full Swing

May 16, 2012

Another Rainier season is here and already in full swing, but not without a little prep work beforehand.

In advance of our first climb we sent a crew up to Camp Muir to whip it into shape for the season.  On the to-do list was cleaning out the Gombu Hut, setting up the IMG Weatherport, carrying some loads up to The Flats and poking around on the upper mountain exploring the route. It was a busy week but the weather was absolutely making the work a little less painful.

Summit Board 2012
First Climb 2012 Descending From Summit (Photo by Carolyn Erickson)

First climb of 2012 celebrates on the summit. (Photo by Carolyn Erickson)
First Climb 2012

Meanwhile, our first climb met for the first Half-Day Orientation of the season. IMG Guide Erica Engle, fresh off of Mt. Bona, tore through the climbers’ packs during the gear check, hopefully lightening their loads a little bit.  On Sunday, they put their training to the test and made their way up to Camp Muir in some unseasonably hot conditions.  On Monday ,they broke in The Flats camp at 11,000ft. And on Tuesday everybody’s hard work was rewarded when they became the first IMG team to summit…and in perfect conditions!

The seal to the 2012 Summit Board has officially been broken!

Tye Chapman

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Annapurna 4 Climbers Get To Jomsom

May 15, 2012

View from Camp 1 with (L-R) Pisang Peak, Manaslu, A2 (photo: Eben Reckord)
Camp 1 (photo: Jarno Laiho)
Below Camp 2 (photo: Joe Piestrak)

Eben and the team crossed the Thorung La (17769ft / 5416m) today and descended to Muktinath, where they were able to send some nice A4 photos from the climb.  Then, they continued on to Jomsom.   Sounds like the flight schedules are disrupted, as predicted, so it’s going to be Plan B for the team tomorrow.  Phinjo has arranged seats on a bus to Beni and then we have arranged a van to meet them there for the ride on to Pohkara.

It should be a classic Nepal road trip!

Eric Simonson

 

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Mt. Logan Team On Its Way!

May 15, 2012

Mt. Logan

IMG Guide Mark Allen posted his last text message from the transportation van on its way to the airstrip in Chitina at 1:30 PDT on Monday. Chitina is about a 5 hour drive from Anchorage.

The team is all set and ready to go, gear all packed and loaded. The weather is doubtful, so the team may spend the night in tents at the Chitina airstrip waiting for improvement. If possible, they will fly to the Ultima Thule lodge, a 45 minute flight from Chitina. It is another hour’s flight from the lodge to the Mt. Logan landing site.

The good news is the small town of Chitina has both beer and pizza, so the team will likely do OK tonight.

We’ll keep updating as the team is able to fly in to the mountain.

George Dunn

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Annapurna 4 Climbers Heading For Thorung La

May 14, 2012

Dhaulagiri (7th highest at 8167m) from near Muktinath (Charlotte Austin)

Eben called this morning to say they had made it to Manang yesterday, and that they enjoyed food, showers, and entertainment (they watched “Vertical Limit” last night).  Pasang Nuri and Sante are headed back down to Besisahar with gear/porters and today the Sherpas are meeting the climbers at Yak Kharka and then they are headed to Phedi. Then, tomorrow, they cross the Thorung La (5,416m/17,769ft; La means pass) and descend to Muktinath and Jomsom, with the hope of flying back to Pohkara on the 16th.  We had some sad news overnight — it sounds like one of the local Jomsom flights crashed today, so it is unclear how that event might affect the teams’ departure plans.   If necessary, they can depart Jomsom by vehicle (it is a very rough 12 hour drive or a 20 minute flight back to Pohkara).  Either way, they should be back to Pohkara in the next couple days.

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna 4 Climbers Retreat

May 12, 2012

Annapurna 4 from near Humre

IMG guide Eben Reckord called on the sat phone from Camp 3 to say that they were hoping to get a pre-dawn start on their summit bid this morning, but that a snowstorm came in overnight.  So, they were electing to bail out from C3 instead.  Now Eben called back to say they made it down to Base camp, and were glad that they bailed, as it snowed hard all day during their retreat to BC.  Better safe than sorry—they did not want to get pinned down up there.

These guys have had a real Himalayan experience the last month, making their own route up a beautiful peak.  Now they are headed home via Thorung La trek and Jomson flight.  Their goals for tomorrow are hot showers, lots of food, and emailing friends and family in Manang.

Eric Simonson

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Nepal Update – One Up, One Down

May 11, 2012

Annapurna IV Camp 3 and the route to the summit (photo: Craig John)
Everest and Ama Dablam (photo: Eric Simonson)

Eben Reckord reports that the A4 team moved up to Camp 3 yesterday (about 21,000) and the Sherpas were able to break out a trail further up the ridge during the afternoon.  The plan is to start about 11pm tonight and head for the summit.  Weather is looking good right now, and they are going to give it their best shot.

Over on Ama Dablam, Liam O’Sullivan reports that the team took a shot at the summit yesterday, but the mountain said “no”.  They got hit by snow, and also had some lightening.  Several members of the team got very close (within about 50 meters of the top) but they were unable to make the true summit.  The team has now descended to BC and everyone is doing well.

Eric Simonson

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Mt. Rainier: Climb It. Now.

May 10, 2012

Mt. Rainier

You may have noticed this weekend’s current forecast – unbelievably perfect weather to kick off our first Mt. Rainier summit climb of the season.  If you’re tired of the same old barbecues and looking for something new and exciting to do, we still have room for 2 more climbers to tag along on the Mt. Rainier Classic 3.5 Day Summit Climb starting this Saturday, May 12-15.  Join our Guides – Erica, Nick, Austin and Josh for an adventure of a lifetime.  Call our office today to claim your spot on the roster!

Can’t make it this weekend?  Give us a call for updates on cancellations and available dates – (360)569-2609.

Might as well – it’s one more thing to scratch off the bucket list.

Becky Kjorvestad

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Ama Dablam & Annapurna 4 Climbers Moving Up!

May 9, 2012

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports from Annapurna 4 that the climbers made it up to Camp 1 today, while Thunang and Phinjo continued up to Camp 2.  Tomorrow the climbers go to Camp 2 and the Sherpas to Camp 3.

View of A4 summitt and bergschrund from BC (Photo by David Medlar)
Ama Dablam Lower Route (Photo by Justin Merle)

On Ama Dablam,  IMG guide Liam O’Sullivan reports that today the team moved up from Camp 1 to Camp 2, and if everything is going well, they may take a summit bid from there.

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Climbers Head For Camp 2

May 8, 2012

IMG guide Liam O’Sullivan reports that the Ama Dablam team is doing well.  They had a nice rest day today at Camp 1 and now they are getting ready to move up to Camp 2.

The weather, route, and conditions look good!

Slabs leading up to Camp 1
Looking up the ridge from near Camp 1 to the upper mountain

Camp 1
Ama Dablam Camp locations

Eric Simonson

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Nepal Trekkers Coming & Going

May 8, 2012

Some of the Maida Mountaineers on a hike above Dingboche (Ama Dablam in background)

Our Sherpa Trek team flew successfully to Lukla a few days ago and now are on the way to Base Camp.  So far everything is going well for them, and they are enjoying the sights at Tengboche monastery.  This is at a crucial altitude, about 12,000 feet, and it is important to feel good here, before moving up to the 14,000+ elevations at Pheriche and Dingboche.  A couple nights in Namche, and a couple more in Deboche (just below Tengboche) will prepare the team for the thinner air in their future!

The Maida’s Mountaineers (MM) custom trek team are now safe and recuperating in Kathmandu.  One of the members, Brewster, summed up the trip:

“Fifteen demanding days, cold nights (10 degrees F), sleeping on a glacier next to the Khumbu Ice fall at EBC (17,600′), long days of trekking, rallying around a sick friend, tight and caring companionship, skilled leadership and MM completed a long-anticipated trek. Far more difficult than ever expected, the trek turned 13 incredible and wonderful individuals into a very close group of hard-bodies who tonight will head home to decompress. We cannot adequately thank the hard-working porters, our four Sherpas headed by Lopsang Sherpa who quietly led us through these overwhelmingly beautiful Himalayan mountains, our guide Jenni who listened and led our group through some very difficult and anxious situations, and for Buddha who slowly seeped into our bodies, brought peace, tranquility and reflection. We are all safe, wiser, closer and carrying a tale only we will know – never to tell and never to forget. Thank you IMG.”

Eric Simonson

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