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Kautz Climb Trip Report – Mt. Rainier

July 5, 2012

Our latest climb of the Kautz route on Mt. Rainier tagged the top a few days ago. Below is a trip report by IMG Guide Nick Laws.

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While crossing the Nisqually Glacier on the first day we found the perfect spot to bring everyone up to speed on climbing techniques for steep snow and ice. This prepared us well for what was to come on our summit day. After training, the team moved up to the Wilson Bench at 7,400′ to make camp.

Dawn on summit day. (Nick Laws)
Kautz Rock Step 2012 (Nick Laws)
Kautz Upper Mountain. (Nick Laws)

The next day dawned gorgeous and we moved up to the ridge below the Turtle Snowfield with good kick-steps. Once gaining the ridge the team moved efficiently up the ridge to high camp at 10,800′. This put is in perfect striking distance of the rock step that allows access to the Kautz Ice Chute for our summit bid the next morning.

Day 3 began breezy and clear above with a near full moon. Conditions were perfect for side-stepping up the Ice Chute with cold, firm snow. With a little route-finding on the upper Nisqually we climbed over the crater rim after 7 hours of climbing. It was a beautiful morning! With dropping temperatures and the threat of snow the team moved quickly back to high camp. After a hot meal everyone got some rest before heading back down to Paradise the next morning.

Overnight we got a couple inches of new snow, which made for great glissade conditions down much of the route. Conditions only got better as we descended out of the wind and snow until we reached Paradise to find the 4th of July blue skies already moving in.

Nick Laws

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Carstensz Pyramid Team Ready To Go

July 4, 2012

Timika streets. (Jason Edwards)
Team at Hotel in Timika

IMG guides Jason Edwards and Dan Zokaites report from Timika, Papua, Indonesia that the Carstensz team is all together and healthy, and that all their baggage has arrived.  That’s the way we like to start a trip!

Jason reports that the weather is mixed, with clouds and some rain in the afternoons and evenings.  This morning the team did a complete equipment check and got all packed and ready for the flight to the jungle airstrip at Sugapa village tomorrow morning.  For the afternoon today, they are doing some shopping, eating, swimming in the hotel pool, and final packing.

Everyone is excited and ready to begin the jungle trek to the most elusive of the Seven Summits!

Eric Simonson

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Camping Serengeti Style

July 4, 2012

IMG guide Eben Reckord called from the Serengeti on the sat phone to report that the team made a good start to their safari.  After departing from the hotel in Moshi, they travelled to Arusha for a morning of shopping, then lunch, then on to the Arusha airport for the 45 minute afternon flight out to Seronera (in the middle of the Serengeti).  Upon landing (watch out for those antelope!) they were met by the safari drivers for the ride to their private safari camp, which is tucked up next to one of the famous kopjes (or rocky islands) that dot the Serengeti plain.  Eben reports they saw a lot of animals this afternoon on the drive, and tonight they are enjoying a barbeque under the stars, looking forward to a day of world class game viewing tomorrow.

Eric Simonson

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All Is Well At 11,000′

Denali

July 3, 2012

Greg Vernovage reports that he’s been pretty darn happy with the progress and the crew.  They’ve now carried above their Camp 3, which is at the base of Motorcycle Hill (11,000’).

Weather’s been good, group’s been good, route’s been good – that’s all we need to know.

Phil Ershler

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Kilimanjaro Is A Wrap; Time For Safari!

July 3, 2012

IMG Climbers and the Chagga Crew at the end of the climb (photo: Eben Reckord)

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports from Moshi that the team had a nice final day coming off the mountain.   After a great sleep at Mweka Camp, they had a few hours of pleasant hiking down through the forest to the Mweka Gate, where they tipped their Chagga crew and said their thanks and goodbyes.

Then, after a picnic lunch, it was time for the team to head back to the hotel in Moshi for showers, beers, repacking and a celebration barbeque dinner in the evening.  Tomorrow morning the team will head to Arusha for shopping and touristing, before catching the afternoon flight to Serengeti.

Congrats to everyone for a job well done!

Eric Simonson

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Kili Team 100% On Uhuru

July 2, 2012

Kili team on the summit (photo: Eben Reckord)

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that the team did a great job today.  They started from Barafu about midnight, with everyone reaching Uhuru Peak (the highest point on Kili).  The weather was good and the team had a nice trip.

He said there was some snow as they got up near the crater.  For the descent, they were able to make it all the way down to Mweka Camp, where they will all sleep like babies in the thick air at 11,000 feet.

Eric Simonson

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Kili Team Set Up For Summit Day

July 1, 2012

Sunset at Karanga Camp, with Mt Meru (near Arusha) in the background. (Photo by Eben Reckord)
Approaching Barafu Camp. (Photo by Eben Reckord)

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that  the team had a nice night at Karanga, including a spectacular sunset.  Check out Mt Meru to the west (near Arusha) in the photo that Eben sent.

Today the team hiked from Karanga (at 13,000 ft) to Barafu (at 15,000 ft) and reached the camp in time for a nice rest this afternoon, a big early dinner and then an early bedtime.  They are planning to start for the summit about midnight.  If all goes well, they should be hitting Uhuru Peak shortly after sunrise.  We’ll be looking forward to hearing from them!

Eric Simonson

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Barranco Wall No Problem For Kili Climbers

June 30, 2012

Eben Reckord reports that  the IMG Kili team had a good night at the 13,000 ft Barranco Camp.  Nice!  The next morning it was time to ascend the famous Barranco Wall, which involves a steep trail and a little scrambling in a few places.  The top of the Barranco Wall is one of the best views of the mountain, looking up at the glaciers!

Playing with headlamps at Barranco Camp (Eben Reckord)
Team at top of Barranco Wall (Eben Reckord)
Climbing the steep place on the Barranco Wall (Eben Reckord)

The team’s hike to Karanga Valley, again at about 13,000 feet was perfect, with great views and the interesting vegetation along the way.   Everyone is feeling good and the acclimatization process of the ups and downs along the trail is making them stronger each day.

Eric Simonson

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Kili Climbers Reach Barranco Camp

June 29, 2012

Sunrise from Shira Plateau Camp. (Eben Reckord)
Kili team before Barranco. (Eben Reckord)

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that the team had another spectacular day today, hiking from Shira Plateau to over 14,500 feet near Lava Tower, before dropping back down to the Barranco Camp.  Barranco camp is situated in a valley below the famous Breach Wall, with the glaciers hanging down.  Everyone is acclimatizing well and feeling good.  The acclimatization profile of our 7 day Kili climb via the Machame Route is perfect in this regard, with ample time to get well acclimatized before the summit day.

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They’re On And They’re Off

June 28, 2012

The weather allowed some flying yesterday.  Mike Hamill was able to fly off with his team and Greg Vernovage was able to fly on with his.  Nice for everyone.  Mike’s team will be anxious to get cleaned up and celebrate their success while Greg’s team is anxious to get to the project at hand.

Ready to go!
Mike and Greg pass each other in the international terminal at Talkeetna Air Taxi

Even if weather isn’t perfect, it’s normally quite possible to travel down low in marginal weather.  That’s important.  If you only move during perfect weather, you’re going to need either to be incredibly patient or incredibly lucky.  Better to move when you can and put yourself in position to take advantage of that good luck when it’s needed up high.

Phil Ershler

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