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Carstenz Team Retracing Steps

July 15, 2012

Waterfall on the Plateau (Jason Edwards)
Rocky terain on the Plateau (Jason Edwards)

IMG guide Dan Zokaitas reports that the Carstensz team put in a solid 10 hour day yesterday, and managed to go from their Camp 5 to Camp 3, completing the crossing of the Plateau.  Today they go back into the forest, and are heading to the Camp 2.  This was the day on the way in with 5000 ft up and 2000 down, so on the way out it will be reversed, which will be a bit easier.  After that, they hope to reach Sugapa tomorrow with another long day from Camp 2.  Everyone is hanging in there, and looking forward to getting back.  The porters are all fired up to get back too, with the big Papua Bupati elections coming up — they are looking forward to getting back in time to vote!

Eric Simonson

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Kilimanjaro Summit!

July 13, 2013

Kili's Summit Plume. (Kent Joshi)

Had a quick chat with Eben this morning (early Seattle time).  He let us know that the team had reached Mweka Camp at 10,000’.  Guys are big time tired but big time thrilled.  Reminds me of the old expression – “No guts, no glory”.  Tomorrow’s an easy 4 hours out to the trailhead at the Mweka Gate.  The chef from the Keys Hotel will meet the team with a hot lunch.  The porters each need to be personally tipped and thanked by the team and then it’s off to the hotel for showers and a likely run into Moshi…  What for, you ask?  Milkshakes.

Phil Ershler

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Elbrus Team Moving To High Hut

July 13, 2012

View from the high hut. (Viki Tracey)

Just got off the phone with Mike Hamill and the Elbrus team.  Mike’s working with our full group of climbers and Russian guides, Igor Tsaruk and Sasha Sak.  It’s a good couple of hours from the hut to the Pastokov Rocks and it makes for a great acclimatization hike the day before the summit climb.  It’s also another opportunity to get the spikes on and do a bit of a general ‘shake down’ prior to a summit attempt.  It was a bit breezy for their hike with some afternoon snow but things seem to be settling down.  They’re expecting to get up early tomorrow and take a shot at this thing.  Everyone’s healthy and Mike’s expecting all team members to go for it.  Wish them luck.  If it doesn’t happen tomorrow, the itinerary does allow for a couple more attempts.  Let’s hope the mountain lets them up tomorrow so they can use those contingent days to do the valley and get in a bit more ice climbing.

Stay tuned.

Phil Ershler

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Denali Wins This Round

July 13, 2012

Camp 14,000...on a nice day. (Mark Dreyfus)

Greg and his team have been very busy on Denali.  First, they were busy climbing and making carries.  At 14,000’, the kept busy for several days fighting a series of storms, with lots of wind and lots of snow.  With supplies running low and no major weather changes in sight, they then got busy wrestling with the tough questions that expedition climbers sometimes face – like when is it time to say enough is enough and make that most difficult of calls.  They pushed long and hard through pretty much zero visibility and got down to the landing strip today at 7,000’.  As soon as weather permits, the plane will come in and get them back to Talkeetna.  Bummer.  It is a strong crew but everyone does have time constraints and sometimes the mountain just says no.  It’s tough to turn around after so much time and effort.  My guess is that there will be a rematch before long.

Phil Ershler

Update:  July 13 (7:30am):   I spoke with Greg Vernovage late last night.  The flight service, Talkeetna Air Taxi, flew in late last night and picked the crew up.  The flight was tentatively scheduled for early this morning but TAT saw a break in the weather, launched the bird and got everyone back to Talkeetna.

A special thanks to our friends at Alaska Mountaineering School who help makes these trips possible.  See you next season.

-Phil

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Kili Team Climbing Tonight

July 13, 2013

Sunset (Ken Maclaurin)

Eben’s updates from Kilimanjaro are consistent – consistently good.  The crew had another great day and arrived at Barafu (high camp) early in the afternoon.  One nice afternoon meal, some packing, a lot of drinking (water) and it was early to bed.  Weather looks very favorable for their ascent this evening.  With any luck, the next blog will be announcing their summit.
Wish them luck.

Phil Ershler

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Too Much Fun!

July 12, 2012

Sunset (Mike Stack)

So, I’m beginning to wonder if these guys are having too much fun.  Talked to Eben today and he said weather continues to be about perfect and everyone is just doing well.  They’re at the Karanga Camp for tonight, maybe 13,500’.  He said sunsets have been awesome.

Phil Ershler

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Summit Smiles As Carstenz Team Departs BC

July 12, 2012

Carstensz Base Camp

IMG senior guide Dan Zokaites reports on the sat phone that the Carstensz team is getting loaded up right now to start hiking from Base Camp, on their homeward journey.  They are shooting for a 4 day trek, but if necessary they can take a 5th day.  Their porters all want to be back to Sugapa village in time to vote in the local elections coming up in a few days, so they are motivated to make it happen!  Everyone is doing well and is looking forward to heading out.  The weather has been great and the team are hoping it continues!

Eric Simonson
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Elbrus Team Getting Ready

July 12, 2012

Guide Igor Tsaruk in front of the Kashkotash Glacier

We received an email from Elbrus team leader, Mike Hamill, yesterday.  Weather was nice as the team did an acclimatization hike up to an observatory located on the side of Elbrus. Today, the team heads to the Kashkotash Glacier to get in a day of training on the ice.  The Kashkotash is a dry glacier that provides an excellent place to work on cramponing and ice climbing skills.  It takes a special permit to get into this area, but it’s worth it.  They’ll be heading up to Elbrus itself soon.  All’s good!

Phil Ershler

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Kili Crew Cruising Into Karanga Camp

July 12, 2012

The gang at the lava tower

They’ve been up from Shira Camp, past the Lava Tower and got to Baranco Camp yesterday.  Weather is great, team is great.  Today’s morning is fun with a climb of the Baranco Wall and then a quick jaunt over to Karanga Camp.  Sleeping altitude will be about the same – 13,000’.  Trip couldn’t be going smoother, reports IMG guide Eben Reckord.  Let’s hope nothing changes.  Everyone’s happy and healthy.  The photos Eben’s been able to get out sort of reflect that.

Phil Ershler

 

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Carstensz Pyramid Summit!

July 12, 2012

The Traverse (Jason Edwards)

Success!  Summit!  Dan Zokaites called in yesterday evening to let us know that the team was on top.  Weather was super.  Even better, he called back in the evening (Seattle time), to let us know they were off the climb, back on the ground and about a half hour from high camp.  The trek out begins today.  Getting out is about as hard as getting in so there’s still work to be done.  However, my guess is that there’s going to be a little extra energy in everyone’s step as they now have the summit in their pocket.  Well done, Dan and team.

A little extra piece is associated with this climb – climber Carol, who’s been with us many times before, is now not only the oldest female to have made the Seven Summits (Kosciuszko list) she is also now the oldest female to have completed the Seven including Carstensz.  Well done, Carol.  More than a little impressive.  You’re not supposed to discuss a woman’s age but, in this case, I don’t think Carol will mind.  Think 65.

Phil Ershler

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