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Wind Continues To Delay Vinson Team

December 2, 2012

What a windy day on the fixed lines looks like (Eric Remza)

Mike called over the weekend.  No relief from the winds at high camp.  Mike and team are just happy they made the right decision to wait this one out at C1.

Tim and Mike took several hours and hoofed it down to Vinson base camp to pick up more food and fuel.  Vanessa and John stayed at C1 and reinforced walls.  Forecast still calls for a few more windy days.  With a good camp and plenty of supplies, the team is right where they should be.  They’ll be chomping at the bit to head high when their opportunity comes.

All good on the Ice.

Phil Ershler

 

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Winter Break

November 30, 2012

Resting with the boots off (Phil Ershler)

Spoke with Mike Hamill late yesterday afternoon.  Weather was reasonable where they were (C1) but he had the crew out reinforcing snow walls.  Winds were unreasonably high for a move to C2 and the forecast is for wind to continue for at least a couple more days.

The comfort level at C1 is much nicer than at C2 when weather is bad.  You can easily see the winds blowing snow up high when outside the tent at C1.  As long as you see those plumes, why bother going up?  The team has made their carry up high and they’re right where they should be.  48 hours of reasonable weather and they’re on the summit.  Mike and team are playing this just right.  As soon as the winds die, they’re off.

Phil Ershler

 

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Hanging Tight At C1

November 29, 2012

Camp 1 (photo by Ted Fairhurst)

Quick update from Antarctica… Mike Hamill reports the team is sitting at C1 waiting out some high winds. They’ve got everything they need and will just hang tight for a day (or three).

Phil Ershler

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Paging Dr. Johnston…Paging Dr. Johnston

November 28, 2012

Ever wonder what IMG Guides do, to stay out of trouble, when we’re not walking uphill with a heavy pack?

I took a volunteer post working in the Emergency Department at the Jigme Dorje Wangchuck National Referral Hospital in Thimphu, Bhutan. As an American ER doc, my role is to help the Bhutanese ER doctors develop their skills. A lot of what I’ve seen here is similar to what we see in the States . . . and then there are the farmers attacked by wild boars, or gored by sacred cows, and the occasional patient presenting with an obscure disease that we just don’t see in the US. The doctors are great to work with, they’re well trained, and very resourceful.  I’m grateful that English is the academic language here, because my grasp of Dzongkha is still a bit limited.

At Taktsang Monastery.
Dr. Jambay Dorjee and Emily (aka Dr. Johnston)
Formal wear also known as a kira.

Of course, it’s not all medicine. I’ve been out bouldering at the local crag (just a short walk from the hospital), and trekking in the hills with other foreign docs posted here. They were delighted to hear that I also work as a mountain guide, so I lured them away from the hospital, and they’ve followed me blindly as we wander the Bhutanese mountainsides. It’s really just more recon for the IMG Bhutan trek I’ll be leading next October.

Recently, I was honored to meet the Queen Mother, and then have an elegant luncheon with the Queen Grandmother, and family, at her palace. Both were surprise invitations! I only brought scrubs, and my beat up climbing clothes. Fortunately, one of my Bhutanese coworkers was able to lend me a kira, the appropriate clothing for the event. Getting the outfit on just right turned out to be more difficult than putting on puffy pants over crampons in a stiff breeze, so I enlisted the aid of a passerby. It takes a village . . . to ‘formally’ dress a mountain guide.

But really, the kindness of strangers here has been remarkable. Bhutan has definitely been keeping me out of trouble. Plenty to do, plenty more to see, never enough time! I’m really excited to be coming back next fall to spend more time here, and introduce a crew of trekkers to the “Land of the Thunder Dragon”.

Emily Johnston

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Vinson Team At C1

Location of Camp 1 (Phil Ershler)

November 26, 2012

Mike’s call today reported that they rallied and made the move to C1.  Everyone firing strong.  He said they got a good, secure camp built and will look at making a carry to high camp on the 27th.  Weather remains good and forecast remains good.  Once they’ve carried to high camp, they’ll be in perfect position to either head for the top right away or, if weather says no, wait it out at C1 and then head straight up when the weather breaks.

So far, this is about as good as it gets.

Phil Ershler

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Good News From Antarctica

November 26, 2012

Near Camp 1 on Vinson Massif (Phil Ershler)

We had good news from Antarctica throughout the holiday weekend.  IMG Senior Guide, Mike Hamill, and team were able to fly onto the Ice (Union Glacier) right on schedule, November 23. They spent that evening at the Union Glacier camp.  This is where the big IL76 lands.  ALE (the flight service) has the bulk of their infrastructure located here.  Lots of personnel, vehicles and supplies.

Early the following morning, the team flew the last 45 minutes over to Vinson base camp, about 7000 ft.  It was early, the weather was good and the team felt strong.  A quick sort, a quick pack and they took off to carry a load to C1, about 10,000 ft.  Food, fuel, some equipment were cached there and the crew returned to Vinson base.

Last call from Mike reported weather remaining good and I may hear today that they are moving to C1 or might even be carrying to C2.  I’ll let you know when Mike has a minute to call.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team Doing Well

November 24, 2012

Vinson Base Camp


Yesterday, IMG Guide Mike Hamill checked in from Vinson Base Camp after carrying to Camp 1. All is well!

Phil Ershler

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New Guide Uniforms?

November 20, 2012

IMG Guide Josh McDowell is bestowed with the prestigious and highly coveted "Ugliest Sweater Champion" trophy.

IMG guides (Left —> Right) Chris Meder, Dustin Balderach, Josh McDowell, and  Tyler Gimenez sporting their ugliest sweater at Tyler’s first annual Ugly Sweater Party.  Looking good, guys.

Becky K.

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100% Summit On Orizaba

November 16, 2012

Route follows the glacier center-left in the photo (Phil Ershler)

George Dunn, leading the current IMG Mexico trip, just called in.  100% on top of Orizaba.  He was super excited about how well everyone did.  All stood on top.  He was calling from below a spot called the Labyrinth.  It’s a series of gullies which provide access to the upper mountain.  Sometimes they’re easy snow, sometimes a bit icy.  George said they were a bit on the ‘firm’ side this week but that the entire team is already through that area.  Now, it’s pretty much a matter of a couple of hours of rocky trail and they’ll be back to the hut.  The driver and 4-wheel vehicle will be waiting for them.  Then, it’s another couple of hours down to the Reyes family compound in Tlachichuca.  Beer, showers and dinner – and in that order.  Great job and congratulations to all.

Phil Ershler

 

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Mexico Team Summits Ixta

November 14, 2012

Iztaccihuatl circa 1941

My partner, George Dunn, is in Mexico right now with one of our teams.  Almost impossible to have anything other than a great time if George is at the helm.  Weather’s been excellent and George called this morning to say – “summit”.  All but one stood on top of Ixta this morning.  Weather remains great and the team will head to Puebla for a night of R & R before heading to Tlachichuca on Thursday.

One down.

Phil Ershler

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