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2013 Bona Trip Report

 

June 13, 2013

Paul’s airstrip at the lodge. (Austin Shannon)
Looking down from basecamp. (Austin Shannon)

Team summit!
Celebration

We arrived in Chitna, AK, bags packed, boots on and ready to fly from sea level to 10,000ft. on the Kultlan Glacier, deep in the Wrangle Mountains.  Mt. Bona rises to 16,400 feet and is a wonderful sight from the air.  On the flight in, our bush pilot Paul Claus, pointed out things like wild buffalo on the river bed and recently skied routes on University Peak.  The bush flight in is definitely one of the more memorable experiences of the whole trip. When you’re the only plane in the air for hundreds of miles things feel pretty remote.  That is until you land on the glacier and then you realize there is not another soul around…at all!

Each day on the glacier brought a new adventure.  The group was very strong with lots of experience.  Coupled with excellent weather the trip progressed smooth as could be.  As soon as base camp was established and stomachs were filled the group hit the sack to prepare for a week of expedition style climbing.  The nature of Alaska style climbing requires groups to bring enough food and equipment to take on any conditions.  Due to the high altitude profile of the mountain and the resulting need for a good supply of provisions, things have to be done in pieces, or carries.  This year the group was able carry and move camps each day. Thanks to good health and great weather the team stood on top of Mt. Bona on day six of the expedition, truly a strong pace.

All in all things went about as smooth as they possibly could. However, one of the great lessons of climbing is to always remember: complacency kills. Don’t ever let your guard down, and always be prepared for the worst.   When things are good life is easy. When things go bad, you have to be ready and able to deal with them.

Thank you to the group for working so hard and putting us into position to succeed.  Thank you to Paul Claus and Ultima Thule Lodge, and thank you to Sheldon Kerr for always having my back on this trip.

Austin Shannon

Trip statistics:
Mountain: Mt. Bona (16,400)
Location: Wrangell/St. Elias National Park (Alaska)
Dates: May 18-29, 2013
Guides: Sheldon Kerr (lead) and Austin Shannon
Summit: 100% …and home safely.

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Nice Day On Sun Island

June 12, 2013

A nice day on Sun Island.

We went to sleep last night in Cocacabana to the sound of thunder and hard rain, and woke up this morning with lighter rain that started to diminish as we headed for the boat.  By the time we were halfway through the boat ride to Sun Island the rain stopped, giving the team some blue sky for the acclimatization hike.   The team made it to the top and got a nice photo.  Then, we walked back down to the edge of the water and had a nice traditional lunch with trout, local potatoes, chicken and a number of other local (healthy) foods.  Then it was time to get on the boat for a nice ride back to Copacabana, with occasional glimpses of the lower Cordillera Blanca range.

The team is doing great and we are excited to move towards Pequeno Alpamayo tomorrow morning.

Greg Vernovage

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Copacabana At Lake Titicaca

June 12, 2013

Copacabana at Lake Titicaca. (Photo by Greg Vernovage)
Senor Paulino the famous Ra reed boat builder.

All is well here in Copacabana on Lake Titicaca.  Clouds were covering most of the mountain range on our way to the shore.  We stopped by Senior Paulino’s place to check out a few Reed Boats and shake his hand.  Senior Paulino is the last original reed boat builder of the Ra I and Ra II.  It looks like it might be snowing up high but the team enjoyed a dry day and great walk around town, sunset on the hill overlooking the Lake and town, and a good dinner.  A lightning show on the other side of the Lake in Peru helped light our way home.  Tomorrow, we will get up early and take a boat ride to Isla Del Sol (Sun Island), go for a hike and eat lunch on the lake.

Greg Vernovage

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IMG Guides Mike Haft And Peter Dale Ski Denali

June 12, 2013

Moving up Washburn's Thumb. (Photo by Peter Dale)

Recently IMG guides Mike Haft and Peter Dale climbed and skied Mt McKinley on a personal trip. They enjoyed perfect weather for 15 days with warm temps and no wind. They succeeded in climbing and skiing the Orient Express from the summit, and skied a few other pretty neat lines around the 17k ft camp as well. Skiing conditions were reported to be firm, but that meant the climbing conditions were perfect. The photos they returned home with can really only begin to show the grandeur of the place. We encourage everyone to check it out for themselves. After a cold Spring this May has been one of the nicest on record for the Alaska Range.

While climbing, they ran into fellow IMG guides Austin Shannon, Dallas Glass, and Luke Riley who were also on the mountain on a personal trip. After a cup of coffee with Mike and Peter at the 11k ft camp, Austin, Luke and Dallas went on to summit a few days later enjoying the same conditions as Mike and Peter.

Check out more of their photos on the IMG Facebook Page.

Phil Ershler

 

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La Paz Today – Lake Titicaca Tomorrow

June 11, 2013

From: Greg Vernovage
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 7:56 PM
To: Eric Simonson
Subject: Bolivia update

Eric,

The Lookout.

Another beautiful day in Bolivia.  The City Tour was great and we took a walk up to the look out.  A few clouds around the top of Illimani but we can still see how great the mountain looks.  The afternoon was left for picking up any needed items and packing the trekking and climbing duffles.  We are out the door early tomorrow and will head toward Lake Titicaca.

Greg

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Boliva Team Arrives In Paz

June 10, 2013

The gang.
The not so famous llama statue.

The team has arrived here in Bolivia along with all their duffel bags!  We had a good day of organizing, doing gear checks, and then had a nice welcome dinner this evening. The team members are all doing well.  Because Bolivia is such high altitude, the importance of not going too fast and taking it easy for the first few days is a big topic of conversation.  Tomorrow we will do a LaPaz city tour, visit the Witches Market, and San Francisco Cathedral.  We’ll also get some good views of nearby peaks Huayna Potosi and Illimani.  After dinner on our way back to the hotel we decided to stroll through a park and get a photo with the Llama statue; we’ll get to see the real thing in a couple days.  All’s well here in Bolivia!

Greg Vernovage

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Denali Summit(s)

June 10, 2013

Left to Right: Luke Reilly, Dallas Glass and Austin Shannon

IMG Guides Austin Shannon, Luke Reilly and Dallas Glass summitted as scheduled on Saturday, followed closely by fellow IMG Guide Aaron Mainer who was up there guiding just 2 weeks after summitting Everest.

We’ll have a full trip report from the guys shortly. All are safely off the mountain – that’s enough for now!

Tye Chapman

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Denali Team Enjoying Good Weather

June 6, 2013

West Buttress Route

IMG Guides Austin Shannon, Luke Reilly and Dallas Glass are enjoying some good weather and some good skiing on Denali. Austin called in yesterday from High Camp (17,200ft) after their caching their loads. They were preparing for a nice ski back down to their camp at 14,200ft.

They’ll likely take a rest day today at 14, then make the move to High Camp tomorrow.

They’ll call in again in a couple days.

All is well on Denali!

Tye Chapman

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Photo Of The Day: Camp Schurman – Mt. Rainier

June 3, 2013

IMG Guide Ty Gimenez snapped this shot at Camp Schurman this afternoon.

Camp Schurman June 3 2013 (Photo by Ty Gimenez)

Tye Chapman

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IMG Guides On Denali

June 2, 2013

Things are bigger in Alaska. (Photo by Mark Valley)

IMG guide Austin Shannon called in from 11,000 feet on Denali at 4:30 pm PDT yesterday. He and guides Luke Reilly and Dallas Glass, climbing on their own for fun,  are doing great. Austin reported sunny weather, no clouds, very warm and a perfect view of Mt. Foraker from where they are camped. They will stay at this camp for a couple of days to acclimatize, doing some skiing for entertainment.

Another team, IMG guides Mike Haft and Peter Dale passed through their camp yesterday morning, on their way down to base camp and a flight out. Mike and Peter summited Denali about four days ago and have been doing some additional skiing before heading home.

It is great to see some of our guides up on Denali getting experience on the Great One.

George Dunn

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