Denali Team Getting Ready

June 24, 2013

Quite the crew.

IMG Senior Guide, Greg Vernovage, is guiding for Denali concession holder and our good friends, Alaska Mountaineering School, as he takes a group of long-time IMG climbers up Denali.Â The team rendezvoused in Anchorage Sunday morning before driving together to Talkeetna.Â Gear checks, final packing, meetings with the National Park and with AMS will fill two days prior to their flight onto the mountain the morning of the 25^th.Â They stopped at a well-known look out just prior to arriving in Talkeetna for their first â€˜hero pictureâ€™.Â Does this look like a strong crew or what?

Stay tuned.Â Weâ€™ll post updates when Greg has a chance to call in.

Phil Ershler

Off To The Hot Springs

June 20, 2013

Nevado Sajama

IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports that weather has stayed very cold and windy, which led the team to abandon their attempt on Sajama.Â Instead, they loaded up the mules and retreated to a hacienda in the nearby village.Â After a good meal they visited the local hot springs and geysers, before returning for the night knowing they gave Sajama their best shot. Â Today they are up early, heading back to LaPaz.

Eric Simonson

Sajama Says No

June 18, 2013

High camp on Sajama (Mark Ursino)

IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports that the team made a good attempt today at reaching the high camp (Campo Alto at about 18,000â€™) but that they were turned back by high winds. Greg said it was rippinâ€™ up high. They have now returned to Base Camp (15,750â€™) and will stay the night and make a plan for tomorrow. Good job, gang. Glad to hear you were listening when the mountain was talking.

Eric Simonson

Bolivia Climbers Heading For Sajama

June 17, 2013

Sajama. (Ben Marshall)

IMG guide Greg Vernovage called today to report the team had successfully made their way out of the Cordillera Real (the mountains to the east of Lake Titicaca) and were now Â on their way south Â to Sajama Â (21463 ft / 6542 m), the highest peak in Bolivia.Â To get there the team needs to drive across the Altiplano (the Bolivian high altitude plain) to the Sajama National Park, very near the border with Chile and Peru.Â After arrival, they will hike up to the Base Camp this afternoon (and go to the high camp the following day).Â So far, so good!

Eric Simonson

Bolivia climbers 100% on Pequeno Alpamayo

Alpamayo

IMG leader Greg Venovage reports by sat phone from Base Camp that the Bolivia team had a nice climb today of PequeÃ±o Alpamayo (17,482′). Well done!Â The weather and conditions were good, and the training yesterday paid off, as the ascent required some steep climbing.Â After a good rest tonight, the plan for tomorrow is to load up the mules in the morning, descend to the road, drive to Sajama, and then climb up to the Sajama Base Camp.

-Eric Simonson

Bolivia Climbers Arrive Condoriri Base Camp

June 14, 2013

: Condoriri Base Camp panorama . (Greg Vernovage)

: Llama Wrangling at Condoriri Base Camp. (Greg Vernovage)

IMG leader Greg Vernovage reports that the team moved yesterday up to the Tambo Condoriri Camp at about 14,100 feet.Â Then, today, they continued their gradual approach, climbing up to the Condoriri Base Camp at 15,200 feet.Â Greg says that everyone is doing well with their acclimatization program. The rain they had earlier in the week has ended and the weather is now cold and clear, with temperatures tonight at BC expected to be well down into the single digits (Fahrenheit).Â The plan for tomorrow is to train out on the nearby glacier with an emphasis on cramponing and ropework, in preparation for the Pequeno Alpamayo climb.

Eric Simonson

2013 Bona Trip Report

June 13, 2013

: Paul’s airstrip at the lodge. (Austin Shannon)

: Looking down from basecamp. (Austin Shannon)

: Team summit!

: Celebration

We arrived in Chitna, AK, bags packed, boots on and ready to fly from sea level to 10,000ft. on the Kultlan Glacier, deep in the Wrangle Mountains.Â Mt. Bona rises to 16,400 feet and is a wonderful sight from the air. Â On the flight in, our bush pilot Paul Claus, pointed out things like wild buffalo on the river bed and recently skied routes on University Peak.Â The bush flight in is definitely one of the more memorable experiences of the whole trip. When youâ€™re the only plane in the air for hundreds of miles things feel pretty remote.Â That is until you land on the glacier and then you realize there is not another soul aroundâ€¦at all!

Each day on the glacier brought a new adventure.Â The group was very strong with lots of experience.Â Coupled with excellent weather the trip progressed smooth as could be.Â As soon as base camp was established and stomachs were filled the group hit the sack to prepare for a week of expedition style climbing.Â The nature of Alaska style climbing requires groups to bring enough food and equipment to take on any conditions.Â Due to the high altitude profile of the mountain and the resulting need for a good supply of provisions, things have to be done in pieces, or carries.Â This year the group was able carry and move camps each day. Thanks to good health and great weather the team stood on top of Mt. Bona on day six of the expedition, truly a strong pace.

All in all things went about as smooth as they possibly could. However, one of the great lessons of climbing is to always remember: complacency kills. Donâ€™t ever let your guard down, and always be prepared for the worst. Â Â When things are good life is easy. When things go bad, you have to be ready and able to deal with them.

Thank you to the group for working so hard and putting us into position to succeed.Â Thank you to Paul Claus and Ultima Thule Lodge, and thank you to Sheldon Kerr for always having my back on this trip.

Austin Shannon

Trip statistics:
Mountain: Mt. Bona (16,400)
Location: Wrangell/St. Elias National Park (Alaska)
Dates: May 18-29, 2013
Guides: Sheldon Kerr (lead) and Austin Shannon
Summit: 100% …and home safely.

Nice Day On Sun Island

June 12, 2013

A nice day on Sun Island.

We went to sleep last night in Cocacabana to the sound of thunder and hard rain, and woke up this morning with lighter rain that started to diminish as we headed for the boat. Â By the time we were halfway through the boat ride to Sun Island the rain stopped, giving the team some blue sky for the acclimatization hike. Â Â The team made it to the top and got a nice photo. Â Then, we walked back down to the edge of the water and had a nice traditional lunch with trout, local potatoes, chicken and a number of other local (healthy) foods. Â Then it was time to get on the boat for a nice ride back to Copacabana, with occasional glimpses of the lower Cordillera Blanca range.

The team is doing great and we are excited to move towards Pequeno Alpamayo tomorrow morning.

Greg Vernovage

Copacabana At Lake Titicaca

June 12, 2013

: Copacabana at Lake Titicaca. (Photo by Greg Vernovage)

: Senor Paulino the famous Ra reed boat builder.

All is well here in Copacabana on Lake Titicaca. Â Clouds were covering most of the mountain range on our way to the shore. Â We stopped by Senior Paulino’s place to check out a few Reed Boats and shake his hand. Â Senior Paulino is the last original reed boat builder of the Ra I and Ra II. Â It looks like it might be snowing up high but the team enjoyed a dry day and great walk around town, sunset on the hill overlooking the Lake and town, and a good dinner. Â A lightning show on the other side of the Lake in Peru helped light our way home. Â Tomorrow, we will get up early and take a boat ride to Isla Del Sol (Sun Island), go for a hike and eat lunch on the lake.

Greg Vernovage

IMG Guides Mike Haft And Peter Dale Ski Denali

June 12, 2013

Moving up Washburn's Thumb. (Photo by Peter Dale)

Recently IMG guides Mike Haft and Peter Dale climbed and skied Mt McKinley on a personal trip. They enjoyed perfect weather for 15 days with warm temps and no wind. They succeeded in climbing and skiing the Orient Express from the summit, and skied a few other pretty neat lines around the 17k ft camp as well. Skiing conditions were reported to be firm, but that meant the climbing conditions were perfect. The photos they returned home with can really only begin to show the grandeur of the place. We encourage everyone to check it out for themselves. After a cold Spring this May has been one of the nicest on record for the Alaska Range.

While climbing, they ran into fellow IMG guides Austin Shannon, Dallas Glass, and Luke Riley who were also on the mountain on a personal trip. After a cup of coffee with Mike and Peter at the 11k ft camp, Austin, Luke and Dallas went on to summit a few days later enjoying the same conditions as Mike and Peter.

Check out more of their photos on the IMG Facebook Page.

Phil Ershler