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July 1, 2013

Sunrise near the summit (photo: Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

 

We just heard from Sheldon Kerr where she reports another triumphant ascent of Mt. Kilimanjaro.  The team put in a great effort today and 10 out of 11 climbers made it to Uhuru Peak.  Everyone is doing very well after their hard work and are on their way to Mweka Camp for some well deserved rest.  Great job team!

Clarissa Hughes

 

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Rest Today, Carry Tomorrow

July 1, 2013

"Edge of the World" (photo Heli Suokko)

 

Greg and crew flew onto the mountain and have made great progress ever since.  Yesterday marked their arrival at the 14,000 ft. camp with everyone and all their gear.  Very nice.  The trick, when you have a team this strong, is not to rush.  Weather is good and people are strong and it’s so tempting to push.  Bad idea.  Rest day is the order of business for today with a carry up higher likely on schedule for tomorrow.  Weather has been almost too good so a little cooler with even a bit of precipitation is not a terrible thing.

Bottom line is that all is good up on the big hill.  And, maybe a visit today to the ‘Edge of the World’.

Phil Ershler

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Kili Climbers Heading For Karanga Camp

June 29, 2013

The Barranco Wall. (Photo by Eben Reckord)

IMG guide Sheldon Kerr called from the top of the Barranco Wall to report the team were all together and doing well. The weather was great and they were having a very nice day. Leaving the Barranco Camp, they had climbed the steep trail up the wall, and were getting ready to do the scenic traverse below the Southern Glaciers. It is a spectacular day of hiking, one of our all-time favorites. Their goal for today is the Karanga Camp, above the valley and stream (of the same name) that drain the south side of the volcano. This will be their second night in a row at about 13,000 feet, so it’s perfect for acclimatization. From Karanga tomorrow they will have a relatively short day up to the high camp at Barafu. So far, so good!

Eric Simonson

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Success vs. Perceived Failure

June 28, 2013

A cool panorama shot taken by longtime friend of IMG, Cale Hoopes, who was on the trip with Peter.

I was honored to be given my 5th opportunity to guide Liberty Ridge for International Mountain Guides (IMG). We delayed our intended departure date of June 24th by one day given the poor weather forecast in hopes that the weather would improve enough for a climb on the 25th through the 28th. On Tuesday the 25th, we made good time to our camp at 7,300 feet on Curtis Ridge with intermittent rain showers. Exiting the Winthrop Glacier proved to be the biggest challenge with one remaining solid snow plug that will not last much longer.

Awakening at 0400, I found the calm conditions, light rain, and the cloud deck to be at approximately 7,600. Checking the weather hourly, we hoped for improving conditions, but none came.  At about 0900 we left camp. The very quickly melting out edges of the Carbon Glacier made for a challenging entrance to the massive glacier.

Due to the poor visibility and wet conditions, Mike Haft, my assistant guide, and I had discussed the need for making conservative decisions, but felt comfortable pushing onto the Carbon Glacier in hopes of improving conditions. In attempt to avoid getting caught by heuristic traps such as feeling pressured by paying customers, getting committed to making it to Thumb Rock, and simply ego driven poor decisions, we set two firm turn around factors: decreasing visibility and increased precipitation. We took the western approach up the Carbon Glacier and found very broken conditions requiring intense route finding and numerous running belays for safe crevasse crossing. Eventually, we made it to within a few hundred feet of the base of Liberty Ridge and took a break stretched out in a relatively safe area. Unfortunately, in addition to the 2+ inches of new snow, the visibility had decreased to 100 feet and a downpour of rain had begun. With us both being on the same page and our guests in full agreement, we promptly retraced our tracks to our camp at Curtis Ridge and made the long trek out to the White River trailhead without incident.

While I found myself obviously discouraged by not getting onto the route and being able to summit, I was proud of our decision making process and resulting safe “climb.” We were also grateful to have guests that were qualified, competent and completely respected our decision to turn around. Now back in the comfort of a roofed structure, I am even more confident and proud of our decision making process and feel a sense of complete success in our ‘failed’ attempt.

Peter Anderson

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Kili Team At Barranco Camp

June 28, 2013

Barranco Camp

IMG guide Sheldon Kerr and her team called in from Barranco camp where the team brings a good report.  Their trek today involved about eight hours of walking to move from Shira Camp (12,000’) to over 14,500’ on their acclimatization hike after which they finished off the day by arriving at Barranco  Camp (about 13,000’).

The method of climbing high and sleeping low is great for acclimatizing and the team did nice work keeping a slow, steady pace.  The weather has been great and tomorrow the team will do a little scrambling up the Barranco Wall as they continue their trek.

Onward and upward!

Clarissa Hughes

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Kili Team At Shira Camp

June 27, 2013

Porters on the Shira Plateau

Sheldon Kerr checked in to report that the team had reached Shira Camp and everyone is doing great.  The weather was cooperative as they hiked out of the forest and into the zone of “weird plants” on the Shira Plateau.    Tomorrow they’ll head to Barranco camp.  Everyone extends greetings to their families back home!

Eric Simonson

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Denali Team Flys On

June 26, 2013

Denali Team

Greg called in yesterday morning to let us know that the team flew into base camp.  All good and weather remains pretty much perfect.  Lots of evening travel will be the order of business.  Nice weather is just that, nice, but travel when it’s a bit cooler is often a good option.

Phil Ershler

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Kili Climbers Ready To Go!

June 25, 2013

IMG guide Sheldon Kerr (in purple) and the June Kilimanjaro team in Moshi, all ready to go (photo: Srivatsa Srinivasan)

 

IMG guide Sheldon Kerr reports that the Kili team had a good day today.  After a team meeting to get things rolling, they headed into the town of Moshi to check out the local scene.  They walked around town a bit, visited the market, and stopped off at the Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance Project office, before heading back to the hotel for a late lunch and putting the finishing touches on gear packing.  Everyone is set, the weather is good, and it’s time to go climbing!  Tomorrow morning they load up the Land Rovers for the steep road up to the Machame Gate where they will hit the trail.

Eric Simonson

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The JanSport Tradition Continues

June 25, 2013

Emmons Team
DC Team
Team JanSport

41 years is quite a history with one mountain, but JanSport is once again back on Rainier for their 41st Annual JanSport Climb. Climbers from as far away as Brazil have come together this year to tackle Mt. Rainier via the DC and Emmons Routes.  (Side note: one of the Brazilians had never seen snow!)

Leading the Disappointment Cleaver team is 500 time Rainier summitter and IMG Partner, George Dunn. Geo’s team made it up to Muir yesterday in good form, despite the wet conditions. Last report had them enjoying the evening above the clouds last night.

Over on the Emmons route, IMG Lead Guide Chris Meder had his team set up at Camp Schurman ready for a summit attempt today. No report on their progress yet, but we should hear from Chris later today.

Tomorrow both climbs will come downhill and swap stories around the campfire at one of our favorite spots here in Ashford, The Wellspring.

Photos to follow…

Tye Chapman

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Summer Kilimanjaro Season Kicks Off!

June 24, 2013

Kilimanjaro and Mawenzi at sunset from near Kilimanjaro Airport (Eric Simonson)

 

IMG guide Sheldon Kerr checked in from Moshi, Tanzania at the foot of Kilimanjaro to say that she and the rest of the IMG June Kili team managed to fly halfway around the world without losing any luggage.  That’s the way to start the trip!  Right now everyone is off to bed with jet lagged induced coma, but tomorrow they will have a rest day to stroll around town, do their gear checks, and get their porter duffels packed up.  So far so good!

Eric Simonson

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