December 17, 2013
From: Luke Reilly
Date: December 17, 2013, 12:31:37 PM PST
To: Phil Ershler
Team 1 is ready.
December 17, 2013
2011 Mark Allen leading “Abridgment†WI4+ in the Ouray Ice Park. (Photo Tyler Jones)
IMG Guide Mark Allen reports on the status of the Ouray climbing scene:
The 2014 Ouray Colorado Ice climbing has started and is in full season. IMG customers have already enjoyed the early start with a multitude of back country ice climbs available that are in above average seasonal condition.
The first weekend of December, my guest Brian and I took advantage of the early winter and climbed some local area classics. We took on multi-pitch waterfalls as well as mixed sport climbing. The conditions really are some of the best we’ve seen in a decade.
Brian had only two-days to get his fill of ice climbing this Dec. His timing was perfect. He arrived ready and capable after participating in last year’s 5-day intermediate ice seminar in 2013. With the weather scheduled to arrive the next evening we decided to go for our first big prize right off. Brain was back on the horse and nailed it. All told we climbed 12 pitches of technical ice and mixed terrain in the San Juan mountains. The final day was spent ticking off one and two pitch classics on Camp Bird Road as we were entertained by a fast approaching Colorado storm.
Shortly after, on Dec 14th, the Ouray Ice park opened to the public and IMG is now in full swing. With the combination of the Ice park and the available ice to climb in the back country, the options are wide open for all abilities. Come on down and enjoy the comfort of the Ouray Ice park and the adventure of Ouray’s back country Ice. If you have always wanted to try ice climbing, this is the season to do it.
Mark Allen
December 15, 2013
From: Mike Hamill
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 3:28 PM
To:Â Phil Ershler
Mike & team on top of Cayambe
Phil – Just a quick note to let you know we made it to Papallacta and the whole team got up Cayambe in good time. We’re driving to Antisana bc tomorrow to make an attempt the following day. It was windy but clear on Cayambe and the route was in great shape. The team’s grabbing a soak in the hot springs now. I’ll send a few photos from the climb after dinner.
– Mike
December 12, 2013
Team descending Cotopaxi
From: Michael Hamill
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 4:02 PM
To: Phil Ershler
Subject: Down from Cotopaxi
Phil-
Great day on Cotopaxi. We had 100% success with excellent weather and route conditions. Only 6 people summited today including our 4 so we had the mountain almost to ourselves. We’re down safely to La Cienega, planning to make the drive to Cayembe hut tomorrow.
I attached a photo of the team descending.
– Mike
December 11, 2013
Jose Ribas refugio
Received the email below from Mike yesterday. Tonight they sleep at the Jose Ribas refugio at a bit over 15,500’. Shortly before midnight, they’ll be up and walking. Two guides and two customers on a completely custom trip – should be fun. Hope Mike’s weather prediction holds.
Phil Ershler
From: Michael Hamill
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 6:53 PM
To: Phil Ershler
Phil- Great training day today and the weather is improving. They both did great with the technical aspects and were fine with the altitude. Heading up to the hut tomorrow for a summit day on the 12th- I’ll send some photos when we’re back down. – Mike
December 9, 2013
Mike & the crew
Word in from Mike & the gang:
From: Michael Hamill
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 7:33 PM
To: Phil Ershler
Phil – We had a great hike on Pasachoa today and a relaxing afternoon at Tierra del Volcon. We made great time up Pasachoa. Rainy towards the end of the day and the next day or two is supposed to be rainy but then getting better for our Cotopaxi summit attempt. Training on Cotopaxi tomorrow. All is well here.
Mike
December 9, 2013
Cotopaxi from the gardens of Hacienda San Augustin (Phil Ershler)
IMG Senior Guide, Mike Hamill, arrived in Ecuador Saturday evening with a custom trip of 2 climbers. Pretty nice, huh? They should have a sweet time. Both climbers are quite fit and Mike’s got them on a schedule which hopefully allows for 3 summits, enough time for acclimatization but not a lot of ‘relaxation time’. Cotopaxi, Cayambe and Antisana are on their agenda. I’ll let you know what we hear from Mike.
Phil Ershler
Custom IMG 40oz Hydroflask ($35.00)
November 27, 2013
Thanks to the USPS, as soon as your order leaves the IMG Online Store, they’ll whisk your package promptly to its destination. This service offers fast delivery in 1, 2, or 3 days, depending on where it’s being sent. We’ll have USPS Tracking™ details in the office just in case there’s a question or delay.
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Visit the IMG Online Store today.
Clarissa Hughes
November 27, 2013
Chimborazo in good conditions (Jorge Anhalzer)
Chimborazo remains problematic. The guys made the big push last night. At just shy of 19000 ft., they decided discretion was the better part of valor and pulled the plug. No summit but no one was injured, either. Tonight in Banos, at the edge of the high jungle, and Thanksgiving dinner at Romulo’s house tomorrow.
Phil Ershler
November 26, 2013
Thinking about climbing Kilimanjaro in 2014? Take a quick look at why we choose to climb via the Machame and Umbwe routes and find out which route might be best for you.
In 2014, we will lead climbs up the Machame and Umbwe trails on Kilimanjaro. The Machame and Umbwe routes take us past some of Kilimanjaro’s most spectacular scenery.  Since we have a large difference in altitude between the start of the climb and the summit, we get the opportunity to go through many vegetation zones for a complete “Kili experience.â€Â  Another plus is that the crowds are less than on the normal, Marangu route.
Machame Camp
The Kilimanjaro National Park staff has done a lot of work in recent years on the Machame trail. Improved drainage has eliminated the deep mud issues of the past. The camps have also been improved, and there are Park rangers stationed at the camps to ensure that porters are not overloaded and that rubbish is removed.
On the Umbwe route, we’re taking the “road less traveled” for good reason. Your first overnight will be near the Umbwe Cave, at an intimate campsite in the rain forest. You’ll experience some slightly steeper and sporty trekking, most noticeable on Day 2. This more direct route takes us to Barranco Camp in two days, where we’ll then spend an active rest day acclimatizing. A little extra effort, but worthwhile in every respect. The camp at Barranco is spectacular, starring up at the Western Breech, while beginning the following morning with a fun climb of the Barranco Wall. From Barranco and above, the Machame and Umbwe routes converge, sharing the same campsites all the way to the top.
Barranco Camp (Eric Simonson)
Both the Umbwe and Machame trail are 7 day ascents of the mountain. By taking a full 7 days for the climb, people have a very reasonable acclimatization program. On ay 5, going to high camp from Karanga is short, which allows us to reach high camp without having had a hard, long climbing day, so we get there early, shortly after noon. That means plenty of time to drink, eat, pack and rest in preparation for our early start the next day when we push up to Uhuru Peak for the team’s summit bid. We will descend via the Mweka Route as required by the National Park.
Kilimanjaro Summit (Clarissa Hughes)
For more details, please review the trip itinerary found here: http://www.mountainguides.com/kilimanjaro-itin.shtml
Summary: You can’t go wrong with either the Umbwe and Machame routes. But whichever route your choose, please keep in mind that Kili is very physically demanding. You’ll want to do your part to be in excellent shape and come prepared to work hard. With you bringing your best to the table, your efforts will be doubled because you’ll have the best-of-the-best walking beside you each step of the way. We’ll send one of our world-class IMG guides to lead the way. Andy Politz, Craig John and Sheldon Kerr bring their combined decades of high altitude experience and medical training with them on each climb. They will be your greatest source of encouragement if you’re struggling to keep going and your best safety net in the event you must descend quickly due to altitude sickness. Having experts with you on an endeavor like Kilimanjaro is essential. That’s why in the last 20+ years we’ve not missed the top as a team yet. Join us in Tanzania in 2014. You’ll be glad you did!
P.S. Take advantage of our $500 early decision discount by signing up for your 2014 Kilimanjaro climb by Christmas and save big!
