January 22, 2014
Cool shot of Aconcagua.
Just received updates from both IMG teams on Aconcagua. Hamill moved to C1 today on the Horcones side. They’re doing just fine.
Anderson and team took an extra acclimatization day at C1 today and hope to move to C2 in the morning. Winds on the Polish side have been making movement a bit difficult but should begin decreasing after tomorrow. Everyone’s being patient and making more red blood cells.
Phil Ershler
January 22, 2014
It’s been a stellar start to the season here in Ouray. When I showed up here just before the new year, the ice was already in great shape–I wished I’d been here a month earlier! The awesome conditions continue: The ice park is as good as ever, the backcountry climbs are in rare form.
We’ve just wrapped up a week of climbing with old friends…IMG’s Ouray Veterans program. On this program we take veterans of Ouray climbing, (not military vets, though some are both!) and spend 5 days remembering how to ice climb, enjoying afternoon coffees at the chocolate shop, soaks in the hot springs, and food at Ouray’s fine eating establishments. On several of the days we venture out of the ice park and climb on some of the area backcountry classics. Some of the notable climbs from this year’s Veterans week were the Skylight (in exceptionally good condition), the Charmin Tube…a super cool adventure, and the Ames Ice Hose (an awesome classic with stout climbing). We’re proud of several of our members for getting out there and working toward/doing some lead climbing as well!
The rest of the year for IMG is shaping up with some great beginners and intermediate ice climbing programs as well as a bunch of custom/private ice climbing trips. This current week we are running an expedition skills trip –spending our time both climbing ice, and working on rescue skills, fixed line skills and getting these all polished for our climbers’ next big expedition.
Weather for the coming week looks to be great–sunny and temperate during the days and still plenty cold at night to keep the ice in great shape. Perfect times to be climbing in Ouray! Come enjoy some of the fun!
Justin Merle
January 22, 2014
Chimborazo (Photo Jorge Anhalzer)
New flash – Luke woke me up this morning to say that our 3 guides and 3 climbers summited Chimborazo this morning. Congratulations. Some recent snow had made the climbing conditions safer and had made the attempt reasonable. Nothing is easy about this climb. Weather wasn’t easy either but everyone hung in and got the job done.  They’re heading for Banos now.  Well done, guys!
Phil Ershler
January 21, 2014
Luke’s crew on the summit of Cayambe
Lots of movement south of the border. In Ecuador, Luke and Romulo are heading to Chimborazo with 4 team members. All the pieces need to fall into place but the guys are determined to give it a shot. Members on the regular trip are flying home today after having summited Cotopaxi and Cayambe. Congratulations to all.
On Aconcagua, heck – we’ve got teams everywhere. Mike Hamill is making a carry up from Plaza Mulas today. Mulas is base camp on the Horcones Valley side of the mountain. All is good. Josh Tapp, Martin Lucero and team are back in Mendoza. Showers, beds, wine and steak are the order of the day. They did a heck of a job up high but the mountain simply said no. Peter Anderson, Peter Adams and Leandro Villegas are making a carry to C2. They continue to acclimate, establish progressively high camps and simply get themselves into position to take advantage of whatever opportunities the mountain provides. The chess game continues.
Bottom line – all’s good.
Phil Ershler
January 19, 2014
Josh called at 6 am, Seattle time, to let me know they couldn’t get up Aconcagua this morning. They encountered way too much snow up high. Winter conditions and a winter snow pack. Discretion is the better part of valor and it just wasn’t safe enough to continue. The team’s back at high camp and everyone’s safe. Disappointed, for sure, but they know they gave it their best shot. At the end of the day, that’s the best you can do.
Cayambe in better weather
Better conditions this morning on Cayambe in Ecuador for Luke and team. Better, but not much better. Luke said the gang had to work hard for this summit. They summited with a quarter inch of rime ice on all their clothes. Very nice job. Packing up now and making their way to the hot springs in Papallacta. Long day, for sure, but ending it soaking in the hot springs with a bottle of beer is not a terrible thing.
Phil Ershler
January 18, 2014
Low vis.
Josh Tapp and Martin Lucero called in Saturday morning, Seattle time. Their team has made the push up to high camp on Aconcagua. It’s been snowing and was snowing this morning when they moved up. Winds aren’t high, it’s actually warm (relatively) at high camp but visibility is minimal. They’re where they need to be given the weather and the forecast. Question for them now is whether to take a shot tonight or Sunday night. This is the tough part. For now, they hydrate, eat, rest and prepare. Lots of factors to weigh early tomorrow. We’ll let you know when we hear.
Phil Ershler
January 17, 2014
Mike and his crew having a late dinner.
All’s good on Aconcagua. Rainy down low with fresh snow up higher. Josh Tapp and team are settled in at C2. Carry to high camp possible today. Peter Anderson and team finished their second day on the trail and should arrive at Plaza Argentina, base camp this afternoon. Last, but not least, Mike Hamill and team began their walk up the Horcones Valley this morning. Thought we’d include a photo of their last night’s dinner in Mendoza. Everyone loves Mendoza.
Phil Ershler
January 15, 2014
Pampas Lenas
Received sat phone calls from each of the IMG Aconcagua teams currently on the mountain. Josh Tapp called in after his team made their carry up to C2. Group’s doing well. Plan is to move to C2 tomorrow.
Peter Anderson called in from Pampas Lenas, having completed their first day on the approach. Hot was the word for the day. They should be getting a bit of relief from the heat the next couple of days. They’re getting settle in for their first night on the trail.
Phil Ershler
January 15, 2014
Hacienda San Augustin
Luke, Romulo and crew are heading for the barn. In this case, the ‘barn’ is the Hacienda San Augustin, a spectacular spot below Cotopaxi. The team summited this morning in good weather and good conditions. Everyone got back to the hut safely, packed up and headed for the hacienda. At 19,300 ft. plus, Cotopaxi is not easy. It keeps coming at you. Never terribly difficult but never easy, either. Two nights and a full rest day tomorrow at the hacienda. I’d say a well-deserved rest.
Phil Ershler
January 14, 2014
Dinner in Mendoza
Busy again for IMG in South America. Here’s the latest – Mike Hamill has arrived in Mendoza. He’ll be doing a climb via the Horcones Valley on Aconcagua with 2 climbers on a custom trip. He crossed paths with Peter Anderson and his group as they were leaving Mendoza, on their way to Penitentes, for a final day of prep and packing. Josh Tapp and crew moved to C1 on Aconcagua today at 16,200’ They have a carry to C2 planned for tomorrow.
Luke Reilly and team called in from the refugio on Cotopaxi. They’re heading for bed early with a plan to take a shot at the summit later tonight. Wish them luck.
Phil Ershler
