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Report From South America

January 27, 2014

Aconcagua, Mexico and Patagonia program director Phil Ershler checked in on Sunday.  Phil departed to lead a private program in Patagonia over the next two weeks.  Phil will be checking in on the other teams while down south and the IMG office will be monitoring all of the operations in the field.  All is well and going according to schedule down south.

On Aconcagua:  Josh Tapp’s Jan. 26-February 16 program has arrived and is all set to get started on their expedition.  Mike Hamill’s team is scheduled to summit today, weather permitting.  Peter Anderson’s team is planning on a Tuesday summit day.  The weather is currently excellent up high on the mountain.

Popo and Ixta as viewed from the air

Popo and Ixta as viewed from the air

In Mexico:  Austin Shannon departed Mexico City with his team on Sunday, heading for their first peak, Ixtaccihuatl.

We’ll keep you posted as the guides check in.

George Dunn

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Aconcagua Teams Moving Again

January 26, 2014

The slopes of Aconcagua.

The slopes of Aconcagua.

Winds are slowing decreasing high on Aconcagua and both IMG teams are moving up. Mike Hamill and team move today to C3, high camp. Reported great weather and the route is in supposedly good condition. Peter Anderson and crew made their carry to high camp and will move to high camp tomorrow. Forecasts we follow show winds at the lowest ebb on Tuesday and Wednesday. The guys have done their homework. Now they need to stay healthy for a few more days and get lucky with the weather. Mike will try to summit Monday morning, with Peter following on Tuesday. Hoping that luck and preparedness are on a collision path for both teams. We’ll know soon.

Phil Ershler

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Team Hamill Advances To C2

January 24, 2014

Aconcagua

Aconcagua

Mike and team got up to C2 on the Horcones side of Aconcagua today.  Winds seem less than on the Vacas side of the mountain.  A carry to high camp is likely in order tomorrow.

Peter and team concluded moving up today to C2 didn’t make sense for them on the Vacas side.  Forecast call for the winds to keep decreasing through Wednesday so they’re trying to be patient.  Reports of tents being damaged at C2 validate their decision.  It’s not easy to wait when you want to move higher but their plan makes sense.  They have time.  Hopefully, they move to C2 tomorrow.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson – Put A Bow On It

January 24, 2014

This Vinson Expedition was a total blast!  I want to thank all of the climbers for making our “New Years on the Ice” a success. I’ve had the opportunity to work with many teams while guiding for IMG and I have to say that this team was a good as you can find. This team represented IMG and themselves proudly.  We made our carries,  worked hard to build our camps, and each time we did it as a team.

The teamwork that each member showed, and the support that each member gave each other day in and day out, was observed by every climber on the mountain.  After arriving at High Camp and working together to build camp and do chores, another climber gave applause while stating that  “Now, you will have a rest day.”  We replied proudly by saying:  “Nah, if the weather is good we are going to the summit tomorrow.”   And as you can see form the great video Paul Pottinger put together, we had a great summit day!

It is easy to work hard for a team that has a great attitude and helps each other.  Aaron Mainer and I are honored to have been part of this great team.

Congratulations to all members of the Team!

Greg Vernovage

*Join Greg for New Years On The Ice 2015

 

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Teams At C1 On Both Sides Of Aconcagua

January 22, 2014

Cool shot of Aconcagua.

Cool shot of Aconcagua.

Just received updates from both IMG teams on Aconcagua.  Hamill moved to C1 today on the Horcones side.  They’re doing just fine.

Anderson and team took an extra acclimatization day at C1 today and hope to move to C2 in the morning.  Winds on the Polish side have been making movement a bit difficult but should begin decreasing after tomorrow.  Everyone’s being patient and making more red blood cells.

Phil Ershler

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Ouray Ice Climbing In Full Swing (Pun Intended)

January 22, 2014

Veteran’s group “chilling” in the Ice Park (Cale Hoopes)
Just one example of the beautiful ice to be found in the Ice Park. (Cale Hoopes)

It’s been a stellar start to the season here in Ouray.  When I showed up here just before the new year, the ice was already in great shape–I wished I’d been here a month earlier!  The awesome conditions continue: The ice park is as good as ever, the backcountry climbs are in rare form.

We’ve just wrapped up a week of climbing with old friends…IMG’s Ouray Veterans program.  On this program we take veterans of Ouray climbing, (not military vets, though some are both!) and spend 5 days remembering how to ice climb, enjoying afternoon coffees at the chocolate shop, soaks in the hot springs, and food at Ouray’s fine eating establishments.  On several of the days we venture out of the ice park and climb on some of the area backcountry classics.  Some of the notable climbs from this year’s Veterans week were the Skylight (in exceptionally good condition), the Charmin Tube…a super cool adventure, and the Ames Ice Hose (an awesome classic with stout climbing).  We’re proud of several of our members for getting out there and working toward/doing some lead climbing as well!

The rest of the year for IMG is shaping up with some great beginners and intermediate ice climbing programs as well as a bunch of custom/private ice climbing trips.  This current week we are running an expedition skills trip –spending our time both climbing ice, and working on rescue skills, fixed line skills and getting these all polished for our climbers’ next big expedition.

Weather for the coming week looks to be great–sunny and temperate during the days and still plenty cold at night to keep the ice in great shape.  Perfect times to be climbing in Ouray!  Come enjoy some of the fun!

Justin Merle

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Ecuador Team Summits Chimborazo

January 22, 2014

Chimborazo (Photo Jorge Anhalzer)

Chimborazo (Photo Jorge Anhalzer)

New flash – Luke woke me up this morning to say that our 3 guides and 3 climbers summited Chimborazo this morning.  Congratulations.  Some recent snow had made the climbing conditions safer and had made the attempt reasonable.  Nothing is easy about this climb.  Weather wasn’t easy either but everyone hung in and got the job done.   They’re heading for Banos now.   Well done, guys!

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua & Ecuador Updates From The Field

January 21, 2014

Luke’s crew on the summit of Cayambe

Luke’s crew on the summit of Cayambe

Lots of movement south of the border.  In Ecuador, Luke and Romulo are heading to Chimborazo with 4 team members.  All the pieces need to fall into place but the guys are determined to give it a shot.  Members on the regular trip are flying home today after having summited Cotopaxi and Cayambe.  Congratulations to all.

On Aconcagua, heck – we’ve got teams everywhere.  Mike Hamill is making a carry up from Plaza Mulas today.  Mulas is base camp on the Horcones Valley side of the mountain.  All is good.  Josh Tapp, Martin Lucero and team are back in Mendoza.  Showers, beds, wine and steak are the order of the day.  They did a heck of a job up high but the mountain simply said no.  Peter Anderson, Peter Adams and Leandro Villegas are making a carry to C2.  They continue to acclimate, establish progressively high camps and simply get themselves into position to take advantage of whatever opportunities the mountain provides.  The chess game continues.

Bottom line – all’s good.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua & Ecuador Updates

January 19, 2014

Josh called at 6 am, Seattle time, to let me know they couldn’t get up Aconcagua this morning.  They encountered way too much snow up high.  Winter conditions and a winter snow pack.  Discretion is the better part of valor and it just wasn’t safe enough to continue.  The team’s back at high camp and everyone’s safe.  Disappointed, for sure, but they know they gave it their best shot.  At the end of the day, that’s the best you can do.

Cayambe in better weather

Cayambe in better weather

Better conditions this morning on Cayambe in Ecuador for Luke and team.  Better, but not much better.  Luke said the gang had to work hard for this summit.  They summited with a quarter inch of rime ice on all their clothes.  Very nice job.  Packing up now and making their way to the hot springs in Papallacta.  Long day, for sure, but ending it soaking in the hot springs with a bottle of beer is not a terrible thing.

Phil Ershler

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Go Or No Go

January 18, 2014

Low vis.

Low vis.

 

Josh Tapp and Martin Lucero called in Saturday morning, Seattle time. Their team has made the push up to high camp on Aconcagua. It’s been snowing and was snowing this morning when they moved up. Winds aren’t high, it’s actually warm (relatively) at high camp but visibility is minimal. They’re where they need to be given the weather and the forecast. Question for them now is whether to take a shot tonight or Sunday night. This is the tough part. For now, they hydrate, eat, rest and prepare. Lots of factors to weigh early tomorrow. We’ll let you know when we hear.

Phil Ershler

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