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Rainier Season Off To A Great Start

May 18, 2014

The view from The Flats (photo by Cecilia Govrik)
Guides Jess Culver (left), Jonathan Schrock (center) and Cedric Gamble (right) celebrating their first summit of 2014.
A few of the first signatures on the 2014 Summit Board.

Well we couldn’t have asked for a better start to the 2014 Summer Rainier Season. We kicked things off last week with our first climb of the season and our first summits as well. Our second climb followed suit and I’m happy to report that our third climb tagged the top this morning.

Tye Chapman

 

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Ready. Set. Go!

May 11, 2014

IMG Guide Training: Last week we had 25 IMG Guides here for our annual guide training. It’s always nice to catch up with folks you haven’t seen in a few months. We’re a family around here so while a lot of folks might not have seen each other in quite some time – we pick right back up where we left off without skipping a beat. We wrapped up the training with the annual BBQ in the rain.
IMG HQ: The lawn is mowed. The tents are up. New ropes are here. We’re stocked up on bacon, pancake mix, cocoa and coffee. The guide schedule is locked in and the vans have been fueled up. Lastly the 2014 Summit Board is up.

2013 & 2014 Summit Boards

Eureka! tents ready to go.


Camp Muir: IMG Guides Josh McDowell, Jonathan Schrock, Josh Smith, Dallas Glass, Cedric Gamble and new guides Nickel Wood and Betsy Dain-Owen are working hard up at Camp Muir getting the weatherport set-up, and the Gombu bunkhouse cleaned out.
The Flats: Three of the guides on Muir set-up took a load up to the flats to start the set-up of our camp up there.
The First Climb:  IMG Guide Josh Tapp rolled in from Montana last night. Tapp is leading the first climb of the season which gets started today with the orientation & gear check.

And finally, it looks like the weather is going to cooperate for the start of the season!

We’re off and running!

Tye Chapman

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Annapurna Trekkers Heading For The Barn

May 4, 2014

Annapurna Trekkers at the Jhinu Danda hot springs on the Modi Khola river  (Jenni Pfafman)

Annapurna Trekkers at the Jhinu Danda hot springs on the Modi Khola river (Jenni Pfafman)

IMG guide Jenni Pfafman reports that her team started the day in Chomrong and finished up in Landruk.  She says they “had a great day of trekking, with hot springs in the morning, lunch and a nice walk”.

Tomorrow they will trek a short distance, then hit the road that is now pushing into the south side of the Annapurna area.   Then, they will continue by jeep back to Pohkara and catch the afternoon flight to Kathmandu.  Before they know it, they will be back to the busy world after a short journey to some spectacular mountains.  I am sure they will have some great memories.

Eric Simonson

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Trekkers Reach Annapurna Base Camp

May 2, 2014

The South Face of Annapurna  1

The South Face of Annapurna 1

IMG guide Jenni Pfafman reports that her team successfully reached Annapurna Base Camp this morning.  They had rain overnight, but the weather cleared for them and they were able to get the big views that they were hoping for.

Annapurna is the world’s tenth highest mountain and was the first 8000m peak climbed.  The South Face of Annapurna represents an important chapter of Himalayan history, as one of the first big technical walls on an 8000m peak climbed in Nepal back in 1970, by the famous British climber Don Whillans and Scottish climber Dougal Haston, on an expedition led by Chris Bonnington.

After their visit to Base Camp, Jenni and the team descended back to Machapuchare BC and  then continued down to the settlement of Himalaya, deep in the bamboo and rhododendron jungle of the Modi Khola gorge.  Tomorrow they head back to Chomrung.  Well done, team!

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna Trekkers Getting Close

May 1, 2014

 

Annapurna Sanctuary map

Annapurna Sanctuary map

IMG guide Jenni Fogle reports that today the team trekked up the narrowing valley past Hinku Cave and Deurali (where the climbing route for Hiunchuli starts).  Now, for the night, they are at the “Machapuchare Base Camp” site at over 12,000 feet, ensconced in a small lodge.   This is the point where the valley splits, with the left fork continuing to Annapurna Base Camp and the right fork going up towards Annapurna 3 and Gangapurna.  Tomorrow early in the morning they are planning to hike up to Annapurna Base Camp, to get the morning views and good light for photos.  From the ABC site the whole amphitheater of the Annapurna peaks surround you, with the immense South Face of Annapurna 1 front  and center.  It is a remarkable mountain vista.

Eric Simonson

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Denali Prep Seminar Having A Look At It

May 1, 2014

En route to C1 near Panorama Point. (Photo by Peter Adams)
Camp Muir. April 30. (Photo by Peter Adams)
Erica Engle and Dallas Glass crossing the Cowlitz Glacier. (Photo by Peter Adams)

Closing in on The Flats. (Photo by Dallas Glass)
A slide on the Ingraham Glacier. (Photo by Dallas Glass)
The team leaving Camp Muir. (Photo by Dallas Glass)

Given the good forecast, our final Denali Prep course of the year started out with reasonable hopes of climbing Mt. Rainier this week, but even with a good forecast things are never a given in the mountains. They spent two days down low on the mountain but popped up to Camp Muir on Tuesday and have been enjoying this high pressure ever since.

Yesterday, IMG Guides Erica Engle and Dallas Glass went up to the Ingraham Flats to have a look at the conditions on the upper mountain. Given the recent warm-up and high freezing levels the obvious signs of a ‘spring shed cycle’ were apparent, which is a nice way of saying there had been a recent avalanche on the Ingraham Glacier.

Today, the guides took the team up to the same area to show them why they won’t be climbing Mt. Rainier this week. It’s hard not to climb when the weather cooperates, but given the snow conditions, the team is happy to let Mt. Rainier do its thing.

The team is safely back at Camp Muir. They’ll finish the day with some training and make their way downhill tomorrow.

Tye Chapman

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Annapurna Trekkers Reach Dovan

April 30, 2014

Annapurna team ready to hit the trail in Chomrong (Jenni Pfafman)
Morning stretching in Chomrong (Jenni Pfafman)

IMG guide Jenni Pfafman was able to send some team pictures from Chomrong before they entered the deep Modi Khola valley leading to Annapurna Base Camp.  It is unlikely that they will be able to send more photos after this, as the cell phone/internet service ends (they have the sat phone for emergency).

Today the team continued the trek, ascending through dense bamboo and rhododendron forests to the small settlement of Dovan (about 8500 ft).  They are now deep in the valley, with walls rising over 12,000 feet above them on either side (compare that to El Capitan in Yosemite, which only rises about

3000 feet!).  Far above, they can hear avalanches from Hiunchuli and Machapuchare, echoing off the walls.  Wild!!

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna Team Reaches Chomrong

April 29, 2014

Annapurna South and Hiunchuli as viewed from Chomrong (photo: Ahtih at en.wikipedia)
Summit of Machapuchare as viewed from near Chomrong
Sunrise from Landrung, looking up the valley towards Annapurna South and Hiunchuli (Jenni Pfafman)

IMG guide Jenni Pfafman reports that the Annapurna trekkers reached Chomrong today, a beautiful little Gurung village perched high above the Modi Khola river valley.  The “trail” that they are following is comprised of tens of thousands of stone steps, which have been installed over the centuries by the local people to facilitate travel.   From Chomrong the team gets a great view of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, and Machapuchare (the “Fishtail”).   Machapuchare is a sacred peak in Nepal, and it has been climbed only once in 1957 by the British via the north ridge to within a few meters of the summit.  Since then, it has been off limits to climbers.

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna Trek Team Getting Close To The Mountains

April 28, 2014

IMG guide Jenni Pfafman reports that the team had a good first day on the trail yesterday, climbing up through the hardwood forests to Dhampus.  Today, the team crossed the ridge into the Modi Khola river valley, and continued on through the forests and terraced hill-country to the village of Landrung, at about 1700m.  The tidy villages in this area are populated by the Gurung people, who inhabit the south side of the Annapurna area.  The team are just starting to get their first close up views of the mountains, farther up the valley.  The two big guardian peaks of the Annapurna Sanctuary are Hiunchuli (6441m) and Machapuchare (6993m), which tower over ten thousand feet on either side of the valley entrance to the Sanctuary, and mark the beginning of the rugged trekking that will take the team up to Base Camp.  It all brings back fond memories to me…I climbed Hiunchuli in 1981 and again in 1983…on a couple of my early Himalayan trips.

Annapurna trekkers at lunch break (Jenni Pfafman)
Landrung village (Jenni Pfafman)
Annapurna Base Camp is at the base of the big south face of Annapurna 1 (8091m), the highest summit, to the left of center. Annapurna 2 (7937m) is the high peak on the right side.

Eric Simonson

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Jenni Is Heading To The Annapurnas

April 27, 2014

IMG guide Jenni Pfafman and team in Kathmandu

IMG guide Jenni Pfafman and team in Kathmandu

IMG guide Jenni Pfafman, fresh from leading our EBC Trek and Lobuche climb, is back in Kathmandu preparing for another trekking assignment.  Yesterday her next group arrived, a private team that has trekked with IMG on several previous occasions.  This time they will be going into the super scenic Annapurna Sanctuary area, several hundred miles to the west of Kathmandu

After gear checks, and a welcome dinner, they are ready to go.

Their plan for tomorrow is to fly to Pokhara, drive to Phedi, and trek to Dhampus.  They will be trekking for the next week, as they climb up to the famous Annapurna Base Camp.

Eric Simonson

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