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Attention All Everest Climbers: PED’s Survey

December 10, 2014

Helicopter view of the Dudh Kosi valley with Nuptse, Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Tengboche monastery  (Eric Simonson)

Helicopter view of the Dudh Kosi valley with Nuptse, Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Tengboche monastery (Eric Simonson)

There have been some recent assertions in the media that many Everest climbers are all jacked up on performance enhancing drugs.  Speaking on behalf of the guides here at IMG who go to Everest every year, our experience is the exact opposite.  Other than maybe using some Diamox on the first few days of the trek, when initially going to higher altitudes, our experience has been that few, if any, of our IMG Everest climbers take any kind of high altitude medications when climbing Mt Everest.

In an attempt to shed some light on this apparent big difference in opinion, some of our friends in the high altitude medical community are reaching out to Everest climbers with a survey.  Their goal is to cut through the speculation and actually get some data, and we are supportive of this effort.  If you are an Everest climber or know someone who is, please check out this survey information.

Eric Simonson

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Vinson Team Wraps It Up

December 8, 2014

IL 76

IL 76

This is what an IL76 looks like on a runway of ice.  Impressive, huh?  The IL is in the air and will be landing at the Union Glacier shortly.  The team will be sleeping tonight in Punta Arenas.  Our travel company, CTT Destinations, is already working on getting everyone’s flights re-booked so they can get home as soon as possible.

So, we wrap up another safe, successful and enjoyable expedition to the Ice.  Since our first expedition there in 1988, we’ve still never had a group miss the summit and still never had an injury accident.  We proud to be able to say both.  Give most of that credit to the climbers IMG attracts.  They’re motivated, prepared and ready to work as part of a team to accomplish a goal.  Now, it’s time for them to celebrate their success.  IMG thanks each of them for their contributions and cooperation.

Mike Hamill will be flying back onto the Ice on the 18th with the second IMG team for the season and we’ll have 2 additional trips later in the season.  Lots of news from THE ICE to report on this season.  Austin will be home for the holidays and then leading our January Mexico trip.

We’ll be posting more Vinson news in less than 2 weeks!  Congratulations and welcome home, team!

Phil Ershler

 

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Vinson Team Back At Base Camp

December 7, 2014

Twin Otter used for the flight from Vinson Base to Union Glacier (Rob Marshall)

Twin Otter used for the flight from Vinson Base to Union Glacier (Rob Marshall)

The team left high camp this morning and made their way back to Vinson base camp.  Big push.  The weather was good enough that they were able to fly right away to camp at the Union Glacier.  This is where the big Russian jet, the IL76, will land to take them pack to Punta Arenas, Chile.  That flight is currently on ‘standby’.  Weather/winds/visibility need to be reasonable at both locations, and for long enough, to fly to the Ice and pick up the team.  Flight down is about 4 hours with around 2 hours to unload/reload at Union Glacier.  Best case scenario finds the team pack in Punta sometime on the 8th.  But hey, no worries – they all summited, not a scratch, they’re off the mountain and back at Union Glacier and ALE (the flight service) is feeding them like kings (and queens).

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team Summits!

December 6, 2014

Descending the summit ridge (Rob Marshall)

Descending the summit ridge (Rob Marshall)

The call came in at 2:40 pm Pacific time on Saturday.  100% on the summit and all members back, without issues, to high camp.  Their patience paid off!  Cold (as always) and a bit breezy when they started out this morning.  However, winds lessened up high and they all stood on the summit with about a 15 mph breeze.  Good climbing conditions.  All members have returned safely to high camp.  One solid day tomorrow and the entire team will be at Vinson base camp, waiting to fly back to the Union Glacier and then onwards to Punta Arenas, Chile.

Congratulations to all!  IMG Senior Guides, Mike Hamill and Austin Shannon, said the group climbed smart and strong.  All 8 climbing team members should be very proud.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team Hopeful For Tomorrow

December 5, 2014

View from High Camp on a clear day. (Photo by Rob Marshall)

View from High Camp on a clear day. (Photo by Rob Marshall)

Just spoke with Mike Hamill.  He said ‘discretion was the better part of valor’ and stayed at high camp today.  The crew rested after a very long attempt yesterday and are set for an attempt in the morning.  Margins are narrow when climbing in Antarctica, always better to be safe rather than sorry.

Mike said the weather’s looking better and we’re all hoping tomorrow’s the day.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team Shut Down On First Attempt

December 5, 2014

Close.

Close.

And that’s why they call them ‘forecasts’ and not ‘guarantees’.  The team took a serious shot yesterday but the weather worsened and closed them down.  Great effort but it was not to be.

The team returned to high camp and is now in a waiting pattern until they see that ‘weather window’ which will give them another shot at the summit.  Everyone’s well.  A bit bummed but ready to rally for the next attempt.

Stay tuned.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team At High Camp

December 4, 2014

Panorama at High Camp showing Mt. Shinn on the right. (Photo by Rob Marshall)

Panorama at High Camp showing Mt. Shinn on the right. (Photo by Rob Marshall)

Spoke with Mike last evening.  Remember, even though Vinson teams normally operate on Chile time, which is East Coast plus 2, it’s light 24 hours a day there and they can climb at any time.

All’s good with the team.  They made the big move yesterday to high camp, close to 13,000 ft.  Everyone’s doing well.  Forecast remains good so the group will likely take a summit shot today.  If weather permits, it’ll be a full day for the crew so we won’t likely be posting summit news until tomorrow morning.  Keep your fingers crossed and wish everyone luck.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team Carried To C2

December 3, 2014

Fixed ropes on vinson. (Photo by Rob Marshall)

Fixed ropes on vinson. (Photo by Rob Marshall)

Satellite phones are great.  Mike Hamill called last evening to let us know the team had a good day making a carry up the ‘fixed ropes’ towards high camp.  There is a long section of rope, anchored to the mountain, which is strung over a long section from C1 to C2.  You clip in with an ascender for safety.

Weather remains clear, calm and cold.  Forecast is still good.  The team may try to move up to C2 today.  Hard not to make use of such good weather when the team is doing well.  If they can move up, they’ll be in position to make a summit attempt at any time.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team Moves To C1

December 1, 2014

Looking up from C1

Looking up from C1

Mike Hamill just called to confirm that they moved into C1 today, at about 10,000 ft.  Everyone is doing well.  Forecast calls for clear, calm and cold for at least the next 3 days.  Oh yeah, it is Antarctica!

Plan is to make a carry up a long line of fixed ropes to high camp, C2, tomorrow.  The ropes are long – about 4,000 linear feet.  C2 is located just under 13,000 ft.  Getting a good carry into high camp is one of the most important days of the expedition.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador & Vinson Updates

November 30, 2014

Let’s get everyone caught up after the holiday.  First, everyone’s happy and home after a hugely successful Ecuador trip.  All we can say is “Well Done” to everyone and thanks for joining IMG on this trip.

Arriving in Antarctica

Arriving in Antarctica

Second, the news from Antarctica continues to be good.  Crew got to the Union Glacier right on schedule.  Poor visibility kept them there for a day.  No problem – the folks from the flight service, ALE, feed us like kings and it’s easy to stay warm and comfortable.  Fog lifted, at both locations, and the team flew on Saturday over to Vinson base camp, at about 7000 ft.  They established their first camp and got a good night’s sleep prior to their first carry on Sunday to C1, about 10,000 ft.  It’s not steep so sleds get used for both the carry and the move.

Next step is the move to C1.

Phil Ershler

 

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