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Alps Classics Program Off On The Right Start

July 27, 2015

Climbing on the Rifflehorn. (Liz Smart)
Climbing on the Rifflehorn. (Liz Smart)
The team poses on top of the Rifflehorn with the Matterhorn in the background. (Liz Smart)
The team poses on top of the Rifflehorn with the Matterhorn in the background. (Liz Smart)

IMG guide Liz Smart sent us a couple of photos from the first day of training for the Alps Classics program, July 26-August 6.

The team did a rock climbing practice today on the Rifflehorn, a local outcrop just off the Gornergrat railway. The rest of the program does not involve serious rock climbing, but a bit of practice goes a long way towards helping the team on rocky scramble sections of the peaks they do. The team will hike in to the Almageller Hut today for a climb of the Weissmies tomorrow.

George Dunn

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Bolivia Team Summits Pequeno Alpamayo

July 27, 2015

Ridge climb to the “first” summit. (Greg Vernovage)

Ridge climb to the “first” summit. (Greg Vernovage)

Luke just called in after a great day of climbing Pequeno Alpamayo.  Great views all around and not a cloud in the sky.  The route is in good shape and gave the team no big surprises.  PA is not our tallest objective while in Bolivia but certainly poses a few challenges.

The team is back at Base Camp, having some soup.  They will debrief the climb and talk through a few techniques that will be used again Huayna Potosi .  The night will be capped off for the gang when our cook staff comes in with dinner.  The team will feast on fresh trout caught out of the lake at Base Camp! A good reward for a great day of climbing.

Greg Vernovage

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Hello From ‘The Barrels’

July 27, 2015

The team at The Barrels.

The team at The Barrels.

Mike Hamill called in to report that our Elbrus team is back in the valley, safe and sound, and heading out for lunch, soon. He also said that weather was poor today so they feel good about sneaking the climb in when they did.

The attached photo is of the team on their way down at a place called “The Barrels”. They’ll use their 2 contingency days hiking around the Baksan Valley.

Phil Ershler

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Kilimanjaro Team Summits!

July 27, 2015

Classic sunrise shadow on Kilimanjarol (Greg Vernovage)

Classic sunrise shadow on Kilimanjarol (Greg Vernovage)

Dustin called in from the summit of Kilimanjaro.  All is well with a perfect climb to the roof of Africa!

Not a breath of wind up there.  I could not hear any wind in the Satellite phone when Dustin called.  Gorgeous sunrise!

They are tucked in at Mweka Camp for the night.  What is for dinner, Dustin?  “Who cares, the food has been so good and we are all so happy, we will eat what the great cook staff feeds us and get some sleep!”

Nice job Team!

Greg Vernovage

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Summit Night on Pequeno Alpamayo

July 26, 2015

Rock scrambling down from the first summit (Greg Vernovage)
Pequeno Alpamayo (Greg Vernovage)
Fixed line work on the summit ridge (Greg Vernovage)

Luke checked in after some great training at the tongue of Pequeno Alpamayo.  The first time out to the glacier can be a little intimidating.  This is one of the reasons we like to go out before we climb.  Get out there and see the first piece to the puzzle that is Pequeno Alpamayo.

 This mountain will literally give this team a taste of all kinds of climbing.  Glacier travel out of the gate followed by some exposed short bursts of a ridge to the “first” summit.  We arrive there and celebrate as the true summit takes our breath away and most people hit the pause button and usually say, “Wait a minute, we are going up there?”

 Yeah, it is a great day of climbing with a little rock scrambling up and down as well!

 The team is going to walk at 3:30 am.  Perfect timing!

Greg Vernovage

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All Ready To Go on Kili

July 26, 2015

View of the summit from Barafu Camp (Eric Simonson)
The Summit from Barafu (Greg Vernovage)
Barafu High Camp on Kili (Greg Vernovage)

Dustin reports from Barafu High Camp that all is well and the team is ready to head for the summit tonight! Everyone is doing great, no issues and are excited.  They got to bed a little earlier today in anticipation for a wake up at 10:15 pm.  Dustin wants the team to start walking by midnight.

Dustin told me that the team felt like it was Christmas Eve and they just didn’t know how they were going to get any sleep. They are having a great time!  Go get it everyone!

Greg Vernovage

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Good News From Russia

July 26, 2015

Summit of Elbrus (Mike Hamill)

Summit of Elbrus (Mike Hamill)

Good news this morning from Russia.  Mike Hamill called in to report a tough but successful summit day.  Elbrus is a serious work out and never to be underestimated.  Weather got particular nasty on the descent but all team members are back at the hut – safe and doing just fine.

They’ll spend tonight at the hut and then make their return to Terskol in the morning.  Congratulations, to all!

Phil Ershler

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Pico Austria‏

July 25, 2015

Pequeno Alpamayo in the center from the top of Pico Austria (Greg Vernovage)
Pico Austria from the tongue of Pequeno Alpamayo (Greg Vernovage)

Luke checked in from Pequeno Alpamayo Base Camp after a great acclimatization hike up Pico Austria.  From the top of Pico Austria you can see a lot of the route of Pequeno Alpamayo and Condoriri.  The wildlife on this hike is great.  The Condor, Llama and Bolivian Rabbit called the Viscacha can be seen everywhere.

 Tomorrow is a big training day.  The team will walk out to the tongue of the glacier and train for glacier travel, self-arrest and running belay.  This first mountain has it all!  The team will be ready to go.

 Acclimatization is going well, keep up the good work!

Greg Vernovage

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Mt. Elbrus: Game On!

July 25, 2015

Mt. Elbrus

Mt. Elbrus

Game day has arrived.  Mike called this morning, Pacific time, and let me know the crew put in another good acclimatization day on Elbrus.  It also served as a good opportunity to get their ‘systems dialed’ and prepare for tomorrow’s summit attempt.  Weather remains favorable and forecasts show the same for the next couple of days.  Winds, in particular, look to be very light.  That’s a big help on Elbrus, or any mountain, for that matter.  Wish them luck.  It’ll be an early alpine start with a return to our high hut for the night after the summit attempt.   Game on!

Phil Ershler

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Hot Lunch at Karanga

July 25, 2015

Working through the Barranco Wall (Dustin Balderach)
Resting on top of Barranco Wall (Dustin Balderach)

The great Barranco Wall today.  It is a short day on the trail but one that requires a little more attention.  Dustin and the team navigated the Barranco Wall with a little cloud cover.  We make today and tomorrow slightly shorter days of trekking in order to prepare for our summit night.

“We pulled into Karanga Camp in perfect form and had hot lunch waiting for us.”  What was on the menu?  “Fried chicken with french fries!”

 What a great picnic at 13,000 on Kilimanjaro!

Greg Vernovage

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