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2016 Prep For Rainier Talks At Local REI’s Announced

January 29, 2016

Rainier 3.8.11 Balderach

Whether you’re climbing Mt. Rainier with IMG, with some friends, or even with one of our competitors, why not swing by REI for a Prep For Rainier talk and learn a couple things from the experts. We’ll go over the main routes, discuss some training recommendations and of course go over a lot of the gear.  Below are the dates, times, locations and the guides doing the presentations. Bring your questions!

Date Time Location Guide
4-Feb 6:30pm – 8:00pm Alderwood Charlotte Austin
23-Feb 7:00pm – 8:30pm Redmond Dallas Glass
3-Mar 7:00pm – 8:30pm Issaquah George Dunn
9-Mar 7:00pm – 8:30pm Seattle Justin Merle
15-Mar 7:00pm – 8:30pm Tacoma Jason Edwards
31-Mar 6:30pm – 8:00pm Southcenter Peter Dale
5-Apr 6:30pm – 8:00pm Olympia Robert Jantzen
12-Apr 7:00pm – 8:30pm Redmond Liz Meder
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Carstensz Pyramid Expedition Is Officially Underway

January 29, 2016

The Team
The Team
View of the Freeport Mine from helicopter
View of the Freeport Mine from helicopter

Timika, Papua
Timika, Papua
Greg and the Indonesian team with the AS 350B3 helicopter in Timika
Greg and the Indonesian team with the AS 350B3 helicopter in Timika

 

After first flying to Bali, Greg and the team traveled to Timika in Papua. The past few days the team has been playing the proverbial waiting game. There was an issue with the helicopter which we’re happy to report has been resolved.

“We are ready to go! All the gear had been checked and weighed. It’s one of the challenges of climbing Carstensz. We have our harnesses rigged and have worked through our systems. We will be out the door tomorrow morning on the B3! Visiting this town has been interesting. Now it’s time to go climbing!” said Greg.

The weather has been good lately, and Greg reports some smoke and haze in the air from local forest fires. Our porters have hiked in through the jungle to the set up our Nasidome camp and the team is looking forward to meeting them.

Time to go!

Eric Simonson

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No Go On Ixta This Morning

January 27, 2016

Ixta

Ixta

Josh let us know that Ixta was a ‘no go’ this morning.  They started up from high camp in spite of the winds, hoping they’d die down as the team approached sunrise.  No such luck.  Winds simply stayed too high to be within the team’s comfort zone and margin of safety.  ‘Stuff’ happens but everyone’s down, fine and heading for the showers in the city of Puebla.  Off to Tlachichuca in the morning, lunch with the Reyes family and then the 4-wheel drive up to the hut.  Orizaba awaits.

Orizaba ho.

Phil Ershler

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Updates From Mexico & Argentina

January 26, 2016

Trail to C1

Trail to C1

Short and sweet – updates from down South……In Mexico, Josh McDowell and crew are at high camp on Ixta.  Windy but things should be calming down.  Team’s planning on taking a shot first thing in the morning.

On Aconcagua, Jonathan Schrock and team have moved in to C1 (16,200’).  Plan is to make a carry tomorrow to C2.  Calming conditions forecasted for the weekend and team hopes to put themselves into position to take advantage of any good climbing conditions.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua & Mexico Team Covering Some Ground

January 25, 2016

It was a carry day yesterday to C1 for Jonathan Schrock and team on Aconcagua. Rest day at base camp today and hopefully moving up to C1 tomorrow.

For Josh McDowell and team in Mexico, it was an acclimatization hike around the area of Paseo de Cortez.

Mexico team
Acclimatization hike with a smoking Popo in the background

Today they make a carry to high camp on Ixta, returning to Cortez Pass this afternoon and the night spent at the Altzimoni Hut. They’ll move up to high camp tomorrow. Nearby Popo is still smoking after all these years since becoming active again and effectively ending climbing there many years ago.

Phil Ershler

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The Ice Is Nice In New Hampshire

January 24, 2016

IMG Senior Guide Craig John sent this report over the weekend, along with some great photos.  Conditions have been stellar for ice climbing in New Hampshire.

“Paul started the weekend with a day of steep ice climbing.  He climbed seven pitches of grade 3 and 4 ice.  On our second day we made an ascent of Right Gully in Tuckerman’s Ravine on Mt. Washington. Conditions were fantastic. There was very little wind and visibility was up to 120 miles from the summit.  And we saw no one else on the route!  A great weekend in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.” – Craig John


George Dunn

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Weekend Updates From Aconcagua & Mexico

January 24, 2016

Time for a weekend update on IMG teams on Aconcagua and in Mexico.

Let’s start with Jonathan Schrock and team on Aconcagua. All members arrived at base camp without issues. Saturday was a rest/acclimatization day at base camp and the team’s plan for today is to make a carry to Camp 1. Base camp is around 13,600’ and C1 about 16,200’.  Weather remains unsettled up high but that doesn’t really affect the team yet. They can make progress lower on the mountain as long as things don’t get too bad. So far, they’re making progress.

Ixta and Popo from the air

Ixta and Popo from the air

In Mexico, Josh McDowell, Charlotte Austin and team got together Saturday evening in Mexico City for their first dinner together. They head up towards Ixta today for an acclimatization hike and will be spending the night in the town of Amecameca. Gerardo Reyes, our friend and service provider in Mexico, sent me an email saying that conditions on the mountain are good, with some new snow. Let’s see how it goes tomorrow when they make a carry up to their one camp on Ixta. The game is on.

Phil Ershler

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And They’re Off

January 20, 2016

Let the trek to Base Camp begin.

Let the trek to Base Camp begin.

Heard from Luke this morning down in Ecuador.  They took a good shot at Chimborazo but bullet-proof ice, covered by a centimeter of snow at 18,900 ft, made a safe summit push unreasonable.  No worries, summits of Cayambe and Antisana and getting this close on Chimborazo is a success in anyone’s book.  Nice late breakfast in Banos where they’ll spend the day visiting the local waterfalls and then head back north to Quito and flights home tomorrow.  This wraps up just a great trip in Ecuador.

On Aconcagua, Jonathan Schrock sent this photo before Martin, the team and he began their approach march.  Three days of enjoyable walking to get to base camp, Plaza Argentina.  They’re ready to rock and roll.

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There’s Ice In New England

January 19, 2016

Say Cheese!
Say Cheese!
New England Ice climbing provides some great training for the Kautz Route on Mt. Rainier.
New England Ice climbing provides some great training for the Kautz Route on Mt. Rainier.

The ice is coming in nicely in the White Mountains of New Hampshire!

Lead Guide Craig John spent a couple days on the ice last week and gladly reports that the warm spell is over. There has been recent precipitation and it’s been freezing up nicely for ice climbing.

George Dunn

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Another Great Trip In Ouray

January 19, 2016

Lower Cascade Falls (Ann Sparks)

Lower Cascade Falls (Ann Sparks)

From: Ann Sparks
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 7:43 AM
To: George Dunn
Subject: Another great trip in Ouray!

George,

We had a GREAT TIME in Ouray!  Day one was in the ice park then we had a mellow day at Dexter Creek Slabs then a good long hard day on Lower Cascade Falls AND Upper Cascade Falls.  I guess lower cascade is rarely in and we were lucky.

Anyhow, it was another successful Ann/Guaca-Merle outing.  We climb really well together and always laugh the entire time. Thanks so much for helping set it up.

Oh PS we are looking at other objectives like El Dorado Needle or El Dorado this summer.  Talk soon!

Ann

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