May 24, 2016
Before IMG Everest Expedition Leader Greg Vernovage left for Nepal he left behind a box of Swedish Fish for the office to crack open should the IMG Everest Team reach the summit.
We’re happy to report that we opened the box yesterday!
If you’ve been hiding under a rock and missed our 2016 Everest Coverage do yourself a favor and click here and read all about it!
Tye Chapman
Glad to report that the 5/20/16-5/23/16 Rainier trip via the Disappointment Cleaver was a resounding success, with all of our clients summitting. The weather was clear and sunny above 8500 feet. Everyone had a great experience and is psyched on their summit!
Early morning break on the route. Credits Austin Shannon
Writing in the summit register. Credits Austin Shannon
The group (and their beers) back at HQ. Credits George Dunn.
May 13, 2016
100% on top this morning! (Photo by Rikki Dunn)
Right on cue the radio cracked at 8:30 this morning with IMG Lead Guide Andy Polloczek’s voice saying “100% on top, almost down to the top of the cleaver. All is well”! That’s a pretty good way to start the season!
Later this afternoon, Dallas Glass called in his 4:30 check-in to report that everything is great at Camp Muir. His team will move to the Ingraham Flats tomorrow and hopefully summit on Sunday.
The Rainier season is underway!
Tye Chapman
May 10, 2016
The Cleaver on May 8 (Dallas Glass)
The last two weeks have been a blur as we get prepared for the 2016 Rainier climbing season. The guides have been busting their butts getting the mountain ready for the season. Below is a highly condensed version of the Pre-Season To Do List
Our first climb goes up to Camp Muir tomorrow! Let’s get this season underway!
Tye Chapman
May 4, 2016
Aside from the big announcement last week about the Denali contract, we’re happy to report some more big changes here at IMG! Over the past few months IMG Web Guru Anya Zolotusky has been hard at work behind the scenes updating the IMG Website. Take it for a spin!
It has been a big project and there are likely some bugs to be worked out so feel free to send us some feedback if you see something amiss!
IMG Team
May 3, 2016
Last weekend was IMG’s spring guide training. Beautiful weather helped add to the success and enjoyment of the program. IMG holds three main guide training sessions each year, spring, fall and winter with each session focusing on different terrain and conditions.
This weekend, our guides reviewed safety and rescue skills: avalanche training, improvised sled construction and lowering sleds in steep terrain. They will be ready when the season starts! On Monday, our new guide candidates headed up to Muir with an instructor team for additional training on the mountain. They will spend three days honing their skills.
This coming weekend we’ll have a big guide team up at Camp Muir getting the camps at Muir and Ingraham Flats all set up for the summer. They will also work on the upper mountain with the other two guide services making sure the route is all set for our first groups.
IMG’s first climb of the season starts at our headquarters on May 10. Let the fun begin!
George Dunn
April 27, 2016
IMG Guides Mike Haft and Peter Dale On the summit of Denali
It is with great excitement and pride that IMG Denali, LLC  announces having been awarded a 10 year contract by the National Park Service to guide on Denali.  IMG Denali, LLC is a new company formed in 2014 by International Mountain Guides, LLC  and our long-time friend, past climbing partner and guide, Dr. Daniel Mann. Dan lives in Fairbanks and is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Geosciences at the University of Alaska and a Senior Research Scientist at the Institute of Arctic Biology at the University of Alaska. We have known Dan since the 1970’s and have guided with him on Rainier, Denali and Everest. In addition to his many climbs around the world, Dan’s expertise in environmental science will further strengthen IMG’s commitment to mountain conservation and education. International Mountain Guides, LLC partners Paul Baugher, George Dunn, Phil Ershler and Eric Simonson look forward to working with Dan Mann and bringing our combined skills and experience to the challenge of guiding on Denali and in Denali National Park beginning in May 2017.
IMG Denali
April 12, 2016
Climbing Left Gully in Tuckerman’s Ravine.
Matt, Kate and I made an ascent of Left Gully in Tuckerman’s Ravine last Sunday in near perfect conditions. Our first day was spent doing some training with ice axe arrest, cramponning and a variety of rope travel skills including rappelling. This prepared us to tackle the gully which reaches near 60 degrees in steepness. Luckily some high winds the previous day blew any unconsolidated snow out of the gully and made for great conditions to crampon up to the top of the ravine. The sun was out all day and the views of the northern Presidential Range was spectacular. We could also see peaks in the state of Maine. This was Matt and Kate’s second trip the White Mountains this winter and we haven’t seen the last of them. They are signed up to tackle Rainier with us this summer and are making plans to come back to New Hampshire next winter for some ice climbing.
Our winter season in the White Mountains of New Hampshire ended on a high note. But we’re already looking forward to next winter and hope you’ll join us to climb some of the most classic ice routes in the country or for an ascent of Mt. Washington.
April 5, 2016
A few weeks ago we posted a note about a fire that took out IMG Guide Rob Jantzen’s van and subsequent home… Here’s a follow-up from Rob himself:
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I would like to say a huge thank you to IMG, my fellow guides, clients, people I don’t even know, and the amazing climbing community. A few weeks ago I had the unfortunate experience of having the van I was living in catch fire and take nearly everything I owned with it.
I was devastated, looking forward I could only imagine the months of hard work facing me as I rebuilt my life. However, just 3 weeks later, I now have a very different outlook on the future. Thanks to the generosity of the community around IMG I have received an unbelievable amount of support. It all helped – the monetary donations, places to stay, gear, clothes, and of course the countless well wishes. Every challenge I have faced has been met not just by me, but by an outstanding network of people and resources.
I would like to specifically thank the IMG management and owners for taking care of me like family. From the very start they were behind me and have been more supportive than I could have ever asked for. I would also like to thank the wonderful folks at Outdoor Research who put together a care package of clothes. My wardrobe has never been as stylish and comfortable as it is now!
And to all those who have supported me during this time. I am so lucky to be a part of this community and cannot put into words the depth of my gratitude.
Thank you all!
Robert Jantzen
March 29, 2016
March 19-22 team at High Camp (Brandon, Jeremy, Matt, Amanda, Doug & George). (Photo by Tristan)
Snow conditions are very good this year on Mt. Whitney. Our first climb of the season was able to summit in good weather. I participated in the second climb March 19-22.
I had planned to pass on Whitney this year, but the chance to climb with my younger son Jeremy who goes to school down in CA was all I needed to be convinced.
Our group was top notch! Premier SMI guides Tristan and Matt;  Doug, a friend from past programs with daughter Amanda; and Brandon, another past IMG customer. Sadly, Llewellen, veteran of many climbs,  broke his ankle at a ski area just before the climb and had to bow out.
The hike in was lovely (except for the 50+ pound packs), every day was warm and sunny. The only problem was the high winds advisory for summit day! We did our best, but an update of increasingly high winds put us on standby for summit day, and finally we opted to hike out a day early rather than risk having our camp torn apart by 65 mile an hour winds. The hike out was lovely, and so was the barbecued sandwich and beer down in Lone Pine for lunch.
On reflection, I had a wonderful time. I loved every minute of it. We all agreed to come back next year to make it to the top. I guess I’m in for another year!
George Dunn
IMG Partner
