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An Inspiring Rainier Story

June 23, 2016

Our ultimate goal at IMG is to ensure that our clients have the best (and safest) experience possible, regardless of who they are, how long they’ve been climbing, or whether or not they reach the summit. So, we were thrilled to receive an email on Tuesday from one of our clients, Dawn Tanner, to tell us how impressed she was with IMG. About two weeks ago, Dawn and her husband, Jordan, climbed with us on Rainier. Although she didn’t make it to the summit, she was an exceptional client with an amazing story, which she graciously allowed us to share here on our blog. Here’s Dawn:

It’s been a couple weeks since Jordan and my Mt. Rainier climb and I continue to reflect on just how great of an experience we had, how amazing our group (specifically our guides) was and how very glad we are that we chose to climb with IMG.

I wanted to share with you a little more about why this climb was so special to me.  I was 9 years old when I was diagnosed with leukemia. I completed a 2 1/2 year long protocol of chemotherapy successfully and was off treatment for aprox. 10 months when the cancer returned.  My relapse was much harder to treat, I developed secondary infections and fractures that landed me in the ICU for months with dismal hope of survival.  I was very sick and was unable to walk for a little less than a year.  Around this time St. Jude had just started performing bone marrow transplants and I was very blessed that my youngest brother was a perfect bone marrow match, so in 1993 I had a bone marrow transplant (at that time a very new, risky treatment) and by the grace of God have been cancer free since that time.

While I was in the hospital a close friend of my family decided to climb Mt. Rainier and he ended up climbing in my honor.  He told me that he climbed the mountain for me and that one day he knew I would be healthy and strong enough to climb Mt. Rainier myself.  I’ve been dreaming about climbing Mt. Rainier since that time.

I have been blessed with good health and the ability to maintain an active, healthy life for the last 20+ years and I’ve successfully completed many different events, but climbing Mt. Rainier was always a huge goal.  I trained hard for our climb and was without a doubt in the best shape that I’ve ever been prior to our climb – but I would not have made it far at all without the amazing guides that lead our climb.

Max, Dan, Betsy, Rob and Eric went above and beyond what anyone could ever hope for from their guides (and Angie was great, too)!  From the very start of the climb throughout the entire 3 days they were fun, encouraging and it was very clear that they did everything that they possibly could to make our climb the best that it possibly could be.  Each of them in different ways helped to make my climb a successful one that I thoroughly enjoyed.  From the great meals, to the fun stories along the way, to the constant help and encouragement every single time that I needed it … they truly made the experience better than I ever could have hoped for.

At the meeting on Monday following our return back to IMG we were told “IMG is only as good as our guides.” Well, your guides are not only exceptional mountaineers, but they are also really great people – and they make IMG exceptional!  I am so very glad that we chose to climb with IMG. I’m sure that we will climb again and we will certainly always climb with IMG from now on (and advise everyone that we know to do the same) – it couldn’t possibly get any better!

I cannot thank everyone (specifically our guides) enough for an experience better than we ever could have hoped for!

Thank you.

Thank you again, Dawn, for climbing with IMG and for letting us share your story. We hope to see you again soon.

Dawn at the Flats camp.
Dawn at the Flats camp.
Dawn with her husband, Jordan, at the Flats.
Dawn with her husband, Jordan, at the top of the Cleaver.

 

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All the Colors on Kilimanjaro

June 22, 2016

Our Kili Team just finished up spaghetti and meatballs with a delicious marinara at Machame Camp.  The team is doing great in spite of the rain they got today.  They were protected by the jungle and, in Charlotte’s words, “all the colors of Gore-Tex.”  Getting on the trail after those long flights and anticipation of what the next week will bring is always fun.  There have a been a few teams who got a little wet on the first day, and every time they still have a great day of trekking.

It is a fun team and they are looking forward to another great day tomorrow!  They will be breaking out of the jungle and onto the Shira Plateau.

Machame Gate (Greg Vernovage)
Machame Gate (Greg Vernovage)
Kilimanjaro (Dustin Balderach)
Kilimanjaro (Dustin Balderach)

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Ski Elbrus Team Enjoying Some Down Time

June 22, 2016

Any day on skis is a good day.

Any day on skis is a good day.

Finding the right window of weather, wind and snow conditions to skin up and ski down Elbrus takes a certain amount of planning, persistence and a lot of luck.  This year’s June ski trip had enough of all three.  Not only were our skiers able to ‘skin up’ Elbrus but snow conditions also allowed for a fun descent.  Half our team skied and half stayed with the crampons and climbed but having 3 guides on board allowed members that choice.

Now the team’s back in the valley and enjoying some sightseeing and hiking.  The Caucasus is truly a spectacular mountain range, more so than I think a lot of folks understand.  They’ll take advantage of everything before heading off to Moscow on the 23rd, where the adventure will continue.

Phil Ershler

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Kicking The Summer Off With A Kilimanjaro Climb

June 21, 2016

Charlotte's team of local guides & staff.
Charlotte’s team of local guides & staff.
The Team in Moshi.
The Team in Moshi.

 

Charlotte Austin checked in from Moshi today.  It is the first day of summer and there’s no better way to kick it off than with a climb of Kilimanjaro!

Our Team, led by Charlotte and our veteran team of Chagga Guides, will be out the door early tomorrow morning.  There has been a little moisture in the air down low so they will be sure to pack their Gore-Tex. Later in the week it is supposed to clear up which should make for some great views!

Have a great climb!

Greg Vernovage

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Marriage Proposal on Rainier!

June 20, 2016

It isn’t the typical climb that two clients get engaged, but apparently last Thursday’s DC trip wasn’t typical at all. Yup, two of our clients, Kathryn Hardcastle and John Carter, are getting married! Upon hearing the news, we at the office were pretty excited and decided to buy a gift for them. We couldn’t find any champagne, so a case of Rainier beer would have to do instead. At least we put a pretty bow on it.

No champagne, no problem
Kathryn and John with their gift

Leave it to Mt. Rainier to still be romantic and beautiful despite the mandatory blue bag usage.

Congratulations, Kathryn and John!

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Elbrus Team Summits!

June 19, 2016

Father’s Day started on a good note at IMG.  IMG Senior Guide, Aaron Mainer, called to let us know that the entire team stood on top of Elbrus this morning.  Some fresh snow made our skiers happy.  Half our team made the ski descent while our other half climbed down.  Everyone was able to ‘do their thing’ and had a highly successful day.  They were even able to push it and make the last tram down to the valley.  Forecast calls for continuing low winds and intermittent snowfall for the next several days.  It’s all good.  Team will get a long sleep tonight and then enjoy a couple of days hiking, sightseeing and relaxing in the Terskol area.  Safe, successful and enjoyable – they did it all!  Congratulations to Lara, Stephan, Alyson, Kyle, Amanda and Peter and thanks to Sasha, Igor and Aaron.  Well done.

Western Summit (Photo: Viki Tracey)

Western Summit (Photo: Viki Tracey)

Phil Ershler

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Elbrus…Sunday Morning It Is

June 6, 2016

Team did a good acclimatization hike yesterday to Pastohov Rocks and they feel healthy, strong and ready to take a shot at this thing.  Sunday morning it is, if weather cooperates.  Forecast isn’t perfect but it isn’t terrible.  Some precip looks probable but winds look minimal.  A little luck, a little patience and a little persistence are probably all in order about now.  Aaron feels good about the crew and everyone’s ready to get up in the morning and see if it’s reasonable to give it a ‘go’.  We’ll let you know.

View during the acclimatization hike (Viki Tracey)

View during the acclimatization hike (Viki Tracey)

Phil Ershler

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Ski Elbrus Team Has Eyes On Sunday

June 17, 2016

Riding up the trams (Viki Tracey)

Riding up the trams (Viki Tracey)

 

Aaron Mainer called in today from about 13,000 ft on Elbrus to let us know the team was well and settled into a small hut about 1.5 hours above the top of the Elbrus ski area.  Folks with a little knowledge of the Elbrus climb will know that the area at the top of the highest single chair lift is called The Barrels.  The old, historic Priutt (hut) used for decades was located about 1.5 hours above The Barrels.  It was a large, 3-story building which burned to the ground in 1998 (I believe).

Our team will use tomorrow as another acclimatization day and go for a 2-3 hour hike up to a spot called the Pastohov Rocks.  Saturday night will be again spent at the small hut and hopefully the mountain gods say yes on Sunday morning.  Weather is everything now.

Phil Ershler

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Ski Elbrus Team Taking In The Sights

June 16, 2016

The team near the observatory.
The team near the observatory.
Taking the tour in St. Pete.
Taking the tour in St. Pete.

 

Let’s get everyone up to date on what IMG Senior Guide, Aaron Mainer, is up to in Russia.  Aaron is working with long-time IMG Russian friends/guides, Igor Tsaruk and Sasha Sak, and a group of 6 climbers/skiers hoping to climb and ski Elbrus this month.

Everyone arrived in St. Petersburg on 12 July, and with all their gear, and were met by Igor at the airport.  They spent the next 2 nights and about a day and a half getting over jet lag and seeing as much of this lovely city as possible.  They then flew from St. Petersburg to Mineralnye Vody the afternoon of the 14th and headed straight for the village of Terskol, located beneath Mt. Elbrus.  Today was a hike/acclimatization day up to a local observatory and tomorrow will be another hike/acclimatization/training day up above the Elbrus ski area.

Good news is that there’s a reasonable amount of snow around.  Weather is a bit marginal right now but they’ve got a few more days before they need a bit more cooperation from mother nature.

Group is strong and healthy, so all’s good in Russia.

Phil Ershler

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Wonderful Climb on a Warm Weekend

June 13, 2016

With all the posting we do about Rainier climbs, we don’t always provide a blow-by-blow for every trip. Luckily, I got the chance to jump on a trip myself last weekend. We ended up with beautiful (read: warm) weather, way more photos than anyone should take in a three-day period, and now a detailed report of our trip.

Our climbers showed up to their half day on June 2nd right on time with all of their gear. Needless to say, we were off to a great start. After everyone got their gear all sorted out and knew how to use it and pack it away, everyone (or at least most of us) went to sleep early to prepare for the climb.

Our second day was where the fun really began. We gathered together bright and early, introduced ourselves, and took a group photo.  After our photo, we drove off to Paradise, where we unloaded our van, laced up our boots, and made one final stop to a flush toilet. Then we headed uphill! Because it’s relatively early in the season, very little of the trail is melted out, so we walked on snow the entire first day. But just because it was snowy, doesn’t mean it was cold. In fact, our trip up the Muir snowfield was hot and sweaty, even with thin clothing and sun protection. Luckily, we moved fairly quickly into camp and we got to spend a couple hours relaxing before dinner. Our dinner was excellently prepared (credit to guides Betsy Dain-Owens and Dan Zokaites), and we all agreed that all burritos should have snap peas in them to provide additional texture.

The crew before leaving HQ
Guide Rob Jantzen packing up before leaving Paradise
And we’re off!
Tim and Jamie smiling on the snowfield

Saturday was a crowded day on the snowfield!
The team practicing rest stepping
On the last stretch up to camp
Dinner at Muir

 

The next morning, after another lovely meal of pancakes and bacon, we had a mellow few hours of training at Muir. The group learned cramponing techniques, self-arresting, and how to travel together on a rope, all invaluable skills for the upper mountain. I have to say, it looked pretty nice to slide around in the slushy snow on such a hot day. Once everyone had honed their skills, we roped up and headed through Cathedral gap and onto Ingraham flats, a short journey. At camp, we moved into our tents and discussed our upcoming summit day. We ate an early dinner, which was again excellent (Betsy is just really good at cooking!) and went to sleep. “Sleep” is used loosely here, as it was broad daylight for about four of the seven hours before we had to wake up again at midnight.

The team practicing self-arresting at Muir
Not a bad view from the tents at the flats! The peak in the foreground is Little Tahoma, which used to be a part of the crater rim of Rainier before its last eruption.
Looking up at Disappointment Cleaver from the flats

 

Summit morning is my personal favorite part of every climb. It’s certainly not fun to wake up in the middle of the night, crawl out of your warm sleeping bag and walk for several hours in the cold and dark, but it’s what carries you to your ultimate goal. Beyond that, a group that suffers together stays together! Summit day is where you really get to bond with your fellow climbers, even if it’s through commiseration.

On our summit morning, we woke up at midnight, ate a little breakfast, drank some coffee (mercifully), packed up and headed uphill. It happened to be about as warm as it gets on a Rainier summit day, although that’s not saying much. After about an hour and a half of walking, we made it to the top of the Disappointment Cleaver, which was only about a third rock (because it’s early in the season and it hasn’t quite melted out). A few turned back but the rest of us continued on towards the summit. Because two of our guides, Dan Zokaites and Eric Schafer, had done some route work the day before, our path was nicely shoveled out and smooth. At around seven in the morning, we arrived on the crater rim, tired but thrilled to be there!

It’s hard to see, but here we are roping up at the flats before leaving for the climb
Sunrise on the upper mountain
Guide Eric Schafer couldn’t resist taking a selfie with the beautiful view!
Avoiding crevasses on the upper mountain (photo: Todd Parkey)
Rob, Jamie, and Tim on the crater rim

 

Three of us walked across the crater to the summit register, where we signed for our group, and then walked up to Columbia Crest, which is technically the highest point on the mountain (although anywhere on the crater rim is officially the summit). Once we had taken a few pictures, we started walking back down. Descending, in my mind, can be the worst part of climbing, particularly if you have my knees. It does, however, go pretty quick, so we made it to the top of the cleaver and down to Ingraham flats in a relatively short stretch of time.

The summit register
Guides Max Bunce, Eric Schafer, and myself at Columbia Crest
The summit team

 

At the flats, we made a quick stop to pack up our gear, get some water, and put on some sunscreen.  The trip to Muir, where we had a longer break, went quickly even though it was roasting hot outside. After we’d disposed of our blue bags (yum) we started back down the snowfield. The conditions on the snowfield were perfect if you like boot-skiing and glissading: just perfect slushy snow all the way back down to the parking lot. Hot days do have their upsides!

Even though we had a great climb, it was nice to make it back to the parking lot and back to HQ. In celebration of our summits, we received summit certificates and signed IMG’s 2016 summit board. That’s a perfectly good way to celebrate an accomplishment like climbing Mt. Rainier, but my personal favorite post-climb treat is trading in my wet mountaineering boots for some flip flops. Ultimately, the satisfaction of a successful climb comes from the actual act of putting in hard work, not whether or not you reached the summit. Fighting through the cold, tiredness, and type 2 fun is both the accomplishment and the reward, along with the satisfaction of looking up at a mountain and knowing that you were there.

Todd’s stoked on his summit!
Guide Betsy Dain-Owens and Jamie back at Paradise

 

Angie Diana
IMG Intern

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