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The Picket Range & More In The North Cascades

August 2, 2016

Selfie on top of Mt. Degenhardt
Selfie on top of Mt. Degenhardt
The Pickets (Austin Shannon)
The Pickets (Austin Shannon)

Looking for the full Cascade experience? The Picket Range has all you need and more!  Climbing in the Cascades will test a climber to his or her absolute end.  The Picket Range is no exception.  I recently had the opportunity to guide a trip to the Southern Pickets.  Peaks such as Inspiration (7,880ft), Degenhardt (8,000ft), and West McMillan Spire (8,000ft) were on the top of our tick list.   The hike from the parking lot to camp in Terror Basin is 6,000ft of elevation gain over just a few miles!

Yes the Pickets are rugged; yes they are the most remote range in Washington State.  But they are every bit worth the effort.  The remote campsite of Terror Basin is everything the alpine climber can hope for.  Beautiful streams running by the campsite.  Few visitors.  And perfect panorama views of the Southern Pickets.  One major advantage to the long rugged approach is, once your there most of the work is done.  Many summits are available from the Terror Basin campsite.

The climbing on Degenhardt and West McMillan spire is wonderful.  It offers climbers great alpine exposure, magnificent views of Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan to the North and Glacier Peak and Mt. Rainier to the south.  If you’re a climber looking for more to explore in Washington, I highly recommend the Picket Range.

After we had two great summits of Degnhardt and West McMillian Spire we headed over Washington Pass to the small town of Mazama, Washington.  Mazama is a climber’s paradise.  Great places to eat, fun swimming holes on the river, and spectacular granite climbing make Mazama a true destination climbing spot.

The Goat Wall is just 4 miles up lost river road outside Mazama.  Prime Rib of Goat is a Mazama classic.  This route is an 11 pitch 1300’ grade III sport climb.   Prime Rib is a great summer climb when the temperature is hot in the valley.  The route itself is in the shade all day and gets any sort of valley breeze.  After our tough ascents in the Picket Range the short approach of The Goat wall was welcomed.

IMG Lead Guide Austin Shannon

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Kili Team At Shira Camp

August 2, 2016

Tents at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Tents at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Hiking up to Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Hiking up to Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Team at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Team at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

 

We received several pictures from IMG Senior Guide, Phunuru Sherpa, overnight. The pictures really tell the story on this one. All is well at Shira Camp on Kilimanjaro. Fabulous weather makes for fabulous views as you break out of the forest and get your first glimpse of the mountain in route to the Shira plateau. At around 12,500 ft, Shira camp is one of my personal favorite camps on Kili. Its seems there is always at least a peek of the mountain when its cloudy. And when its clear… wow, the views are fantastic. Kilimanjaro is right in your face. Opposite your view of Kili itself are views of Shira Ridge and Mt Meru in the other direction. Truly a great spot to spend an afternoon and evening. The hike tomorrow to Barranco Camp is equally impressive. We wish the team continued good weather!

Dustin Balderach

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Bolivia Team At Nido de Condores

August 1, 2016

Nido de Condores (Greg Vernovage)
Nido de Condores (Greg Vernovage)
Looking up the route from Nido de Condores (Greg Vernovage)
Looking up the route from Nido de Condores (Greg Vernovage)

Andy and the Team just checked in from the Condor’s Nest at 18,000’.  This is not the easiest climb to High Camp.  The route out of Base Camp gets you into your groove and after a few switch backs, you find yourself having lunch at the base of the HC ridge.  Once on the ridge, you pay attention to your hand and foot placement.

At Nido de Condores, you can see the route winding up the mountain and onto the final summit ridge.  Illimani (21,200’) is real climbing!  The plan for the Team is to get moving at 2:30 am.  Andy and the Guide Team took a look at the lower end of the climb and report: “It will be fun.  We have enough gear and rope and will likely make a few decisions when we get on the steep sections.”  Andy was referring to the area known as the “stairway to heaven”, a long steep section that can either be pitched out or fixed.

Sounds fun!

Greg Vernovage

 

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Machu Picchu Team Hits The Trail

August 1, 2016

Team dinner in Cusco (Adam Angel)

Team dinner in Cusco (Adam Angel)

IMG lead guide Adam Angel has been checking in the past two days as his group arrived in Cusco, Peru safely on July 29. They toured the Sacred Valley yesterday, spent a last night at a hotel near the starting point of the Inca Trail, and are now safely on their way on the first day of the trek. The non-trekking members of the team are touring the Sacred Valley and returning to Cusco tonight to continue the program. All members of the team remain healthy and happy!

George Dunn

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Alps Classic Team Summits Mont Blanc

August 1, 2016

The team on top (Matt Farmer)

The team on top (Matt Farmer)

IMG Lead Guide Matt Farmer sent an update from the high mountain hut on Mont Blanc today. Farmer reports that the team powered up to the summit of Mont Blanc this morning and are back to the Gouter Hut resting, eating and drinking. They’ll descend down to the town of Chamonix in the morning for showers and a bit of time in town.

George Dunn

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Kilimanjaro Team Reaches Machame Camp

August 1, 2016

Phunuru Sherpa and the Kili Team
Phunuru Sherpa and the Kili Team
In the forest below Machame Camp (Eric Simonson)
In the forest below Machame Camp (Eric Simonson)

 

IMG guide Phunuru Sherpa called on the sat phone from Machame Camp to report that the team had a very nice hike up through the forest today.  The weather was good and the team are all doing well.  They are now camped right at the treeline (about 9800 feet) with their first closeup views of Kilimanjaro.  Tomorrow is a shorter day  as they will climb up onto the Shira Plateau.

 

Eric Simonson

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Bolivia Team Moves to Illimani Base Camp

July 31, 2016

Illimani Base Camp with the summit in the upper left side of the picture  (Greg Vernovage)

Illimani Base Camp with the summit in the upper left side of the picture (Greg Vernovage)

Andy and the Illimani Team moved from La Paz to Base Camp today.  This is a great drive and a move to one of the most beautiful Base Camps that I have ever visited.

Everyone is feeling great after a solid rest day in La Paz and have made the decision to strike while the iron is hot!  The Team is planning on heading to High Camp in the morning and taking a look at the route to the summit.  If everything looks good, they are going to go for it.

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Gear Checks and Relaxing in Moshi

July 31, 2016

Mt Kilimanjaro
Mt Kilimanjaro from Moshi (Photo: Dustin Balderach)
The Team
Breakfast at K’s Lodge (Photo: Phunuru Sherpa)

 

We received a call earlier from IMG Senior Guide, Phunuru Sherpa, who is leading our fourth Kilimanjaro climb and safari of the summer. Good news – all clients and luggage have arrived safe and sound in Moshi. Thats a fantastic way to start the trip!! Right now the group will be fast asleep recovering from their long flights over to Tanzania. Tomorrow is a fairly relaxing day for the crew. Breakfast, a group meeting to discuss the expedition, gear checks and finally a visit to the town of Moshi for some souvenir shopping and stocking up on any last minute supplies. Its a much needed rest day to finish recovering from the jet lag and get all the gear sorted. The day is full of excitement about the start of the climb. We wish them luck and look forward to following their progress.

Dustin Balderach

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Elbrus Team Enjoying Moscow

July 30, 2016

Red Square (Photo: Mike Hamill)

Red Square (Photo: Mike Hamill)

A day and a half of sightseeing in Moscow and a final dinner together on Old Arbat Street and it was time to go their separate ways.  Everyone on top and everyone healthy and happy.  That’s the goal.

Mike sent a final parting photo from Red Square of St. Basil’s Cathedral.  Time to say good-bye to Russia and hello to home.

Phil Ershler

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Bolivia Team Back in La Paz

Pequeno Alpamayo Summit (Ian Lauder)
Pequeno Alpamayo Summit (Ian Lauder)
Bolivia Team photo in front of Huayna Potosi (Debbie Mccallum)
Bolivia Team photo in front of Huayna Potosi (Debbie Mccallum)
Small summit equals only small group shots (Barbara Andrews)
Small summit equals only small group shots (Barbara Andrews)

 

The Bolivia Team returned to La Paz this morning to do a little laundry, take a shower and get things ready for Illimani.  The Team will also have a farewell dinner for some of the gang who will not be continuing to Illimani.  Great trip so far with challenging conditions.  Way to go!

For the climbers staying for the Illimani extension, they will get a rest day tomorrow before heading towards one of the most beautiful Base Camps in the world.

Congratulations and way to go everyone!

Greg Vernovage

 

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