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Cho Oyu Summits

October 2, 2016

View of Everest and Lhotse from Cho Oyu Summit (Greg Vernovage)

View of Everest and Lhotse from Cho Oyu Summit (Greg Vernovage)

We received a quick phone call from Mike as he passed through Camp 3 on the way down after a gorgeous climb to the summit of Cho Oyu!  19 summits for IMG this season.  We will get more photos from them as they get back into range.

Some members returned all the way to ABC while a few others are spending the night at Camp 1.  Tomorrow, the Team will all be together at ABC to celebrate.  The following day will be spent on packing camp and waiting for the Yaks to come up.

Way to go Team!

Greg Vernovage

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It’s Go Time On Cho Oyu

October 1, 2016

Cho Oyu with the moon coming up. (Mike Guthrie)

Cho Oyu with the moon coming up. (Mike Guthrie)

Mike called on a gorgeous day from Camp 2 on Cho Oyu.  “There is not a breath of wind and only a couple puffy clouds around us.  The Team is doing great and we are ready to head up to Camp 3 today.”

The weather forecast continues to look good and the plan is to take off from Camp 3 at 2:30 am.  Heading up from Camp 2 is a slow and steady climb.  It is steep and what is most important is finding your rhythm.  You need to take one step after another and breathe.

Go get it everyone!

Greg Vernovage

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Cho Oyu on the Move

September 30, 2016

Climbing to Camp 2 through the ice cliff (Greg Vernovage)
Climbing to Camp 2 through the ice cliff (Greg Vernovage)
Camp 3 on Cho Oyu (Greg Vernovage)
Camp 3 on Cho Oyu (Greg Vernovage)

Our Cho Oyu Team has moved to Camp 2 today.  The weather is looking great and our Team climbed well to Camp 2.  The plan is to move up to Camp 3 in the morning and be in position to summit on October 2nd.

The report from up high is that the route is now in and in great shape.  A few other Teams went for the summit and got it!  It must be our turn!

Greg Vernovage

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Pumping the Brakes on Cho Oyu

September 29, 2016

Cho Oyu from ABC (Mike Guthrie)

Cho Oyu from ABC (Mike Guthrie)

The Cho Oyu Team is “pumping the brakes” at Camp 1.  Mike called to check in and let us know that with the precipitation slowing down, they have been able to look higher on the mountain.  We are getting a few reports about some snow on the slopes between Camp 2 and Camp 3.  Teams are at Camp 2 waiting for the snow to consolidate.  Dallas is going to head to Camp 2 with a few of the Sherpa and get “eyes on the snow.”

What does that mean for us?  The weather is trending even better, the Team is feeling great and we have plenty of food at Camp 1.  These are all good things and Mike is one of the best there is at waiting for the right time to move.  The plan will be to work their way to Camp 2 tomorrow and re-evaluate conditions.

Greg Vernovage

 

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Fall on Mount Rainier

September 29, 2016

Changing colors near Paradise (Luke Reilly)
Changing colors near Paradise (Luke Reilly)
Mount Rainier in the Fall (Luke Reilly)
Mount Rainier in the Fall (Luke Reilly)
Morning light at Camp Muir (Luke Reilly)
Morning light at Camp Muir (Luke Reilly)

The leaves are changing in Washington and the freezing levels are dropping to 5,500 feet by Saturday.  This can only mean one thing, fall has come to an end and it’s time to start preparing for winter.  Our last climb on Disappointment Cleaver, led by Justin Merle, topped out this morning.  Five-star job to Justin and his crew.

A route/Muir take-down party has been assembled and all the gentlemen will be working diligently over the next couple days to tuck Rainier in for the winter, or at least until our winter seminars, avalanche courses and ski trips fire up.  Here are a few shots of the changing season.  Stay tuned for an official Rainier season wrap-up blog and the final photo of the 2016 summit board, it is packed!

Luke Reilly

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Cho Oyu Summit Push

September 28,

Cho Oyu from ABC: The Route Can Be Seen Up High (Greg Vernovage)
Cho Oyu from ABC: The Route Can Be Seen Up High (Greg Vernovage)
Thumbs Up Above Camp 1 (Greg Vernovage)
Thumbs Up Above Camp 1 (Greg Vernovage)
Looking down from Camp 3 at route from C1 to C2 (Greg Vernovage)
Looking down from Camp 3 at route from C1 to C2 (Greg Vernovage)

 

We heard from Mike last night.  “It is a little breezy down at ABC right now but the Team is feeling strong and ready to head up the mountain.  We are going to head up to Camp 1 today.”   This is great news because the weather forecast is trending in a good direction for them to summit on the 1st or 2nd.

The Team is going to bring a little extra food up with them in the event some precipitation comes in for a day or they think one more day will be good for the snowpack.  The Team has worked hard this season and is now in position to summit Cho Oyu in the next few days!

Good luck everyone!

Greg Vernovage

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Summit Push on Cho Oyu

September 27, 2016

Camp 2 on Cho Oyu (Greg Vernovage)
Camp 2 on Cho Oyu (Greg Vernovage)
Route up to Camp 3 on Cho Oyu (Greg Vernovage)
Route up to Camp 3 on Cho Oyu (Greg Vernovage)

Oxygen Bottle Fundamentals (Phunuru)
Oxygen Bottle Fundamentals (Phunuru)
Oxygen Training with Mike Hamill (Phunuru)
Oxygen Training with Mike Hamill (Phunuru)

 

The Team is prepared and ready to make their summit push on Cho Oyu.  During the rest days at ABC, the Team did the oxygen clinic and then practiced and practiced and practiced!  With the rest days came some snow and Mike decided to hang tight for an additional day at ABC.

Now the weather has cleared up and the Team is feeling strong.  The last little piece to the puzzle is the fixing team.  With no movement high on the mountain, Mike wants to make sure the fixing team has enough time to do the job right.  With good weather and word from up high that the route is fixed, our climbers will head up hill in in the morning!

Have a great climb everyone!

Greg Vernovage

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Back To Lhasa

September 24, 2016

Big Peaks Seen from the KTM-Lhasa Flight Include Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu (Eric Simonson)

Big Peaks Seen from the KTM-Lhasa Flight Include Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu (Eric Simonson)

Ang Jangbu called me to report that the Tibet Trek team flew today from Lhasa all the way to Kathmandu, but the plane could not land due to the weather, so they flew back to Lhasa.  They will try again tomorrow. It’s not over till it’s over!

The good news is that they are getting some great views of the Himalayas!  The air route between Lhasa and Kathmandu normally crosses the Himalaya near Makalu.  The Gonggar  (Lhasa) Airport is at 11,700 ft and it is over 13,000 feet long!  I remember flying in and out of this airport back in the 1980’s (from Chengdu) in a Russian Ilyushin Il-18.  Departing Gonggar, the takeoff roll took over a minute and we flew a long time, very close to the ground, before we could start to gain altitude.  Yikes!  Now a days Air China flies the Airbus A319.

I talked to Mike Hamill at ABC and the team are all doing well and are looking forward to a couple rest days now, which is perfect timing to let this weather system move out of the area.

Eric Simonson

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Trekkers’ last night in Tibet, Climbers back to ABC

September 23, 2016

Lhasa's Famous Barkhor Market in the Evening (Ang Jangbu)

Lhasa’s Famous Barkhor Market in the Evening (Ang Jangbu)

Ang Jangbu reports that the Tibet Trek team had a smooth trip back to Lhasa, after their visit to the Rongbuk Base Camp on the north side of Everest:  “We had a great day in Lhasa today. Members went to Potala palace before lunch and then after lunch we had a free afternoon and most members walked around the Barkhor market. We had our last dinner at a Nepalese restaurant near our hotel. I went back to Barkhor after dinner to get some night shots. We are being picked up our drivers at 9am tomorrow to go to the airport for flight to Kathmandu”.

Up on Cho Oyu the climbers are wrapping up their first rotation.  Due to snowfall the last couple days, they were unable to make it all the way up to Camp 2, but they did spend a couple acclimatization nights at Camp 1 (20,000 feet) and had a nice practice climb up the ridge to the Ice Cliff.  They will take a few rest days now before heading back up.

Eric Simonson

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Progress on Cho Oyu

September 21, 2016

Climbers Making Their Way Towards the Ice Cliff (Mike Hamill)
Climbers Making Their Way Towards the Ice Cliff (Mike Hamill)
Climbing Towards Camp 2 (Josh McDowell)
Climbing Towards Camp 2 (Josh McDowell)

Rongbuk Monastery (Ang Jangbu)
Rongbuk Monastery (Ang Jangbu)
Touring Rongbuk Monastery (Ang Jangbu)
Touring Rongbuk Monastery (Ang Jangbu)

 

Mike checked in from Camp 1 today.  “All is well up here at Camp 1.  The team was strong today and will hike to the base of the ice cliff in the morning to stretch their legs.  The following day, the plan is to head for Camp 2 if weather permits.”  The weather forecast has a little precipitation for the team to keep their eyes on over the next few days.  We are watching the monsoon retreat right now and will likely see a little spike in wind to help move it out of the region.

The Tibet Trek woke up to overcast skies and light snow at Rongbuk.  After stretching their legs and touring the Monastery, the team jumped in the 4 X 4 and headed to Shigatse.  They will be up early to head back to Lhasa!

Greg Vernovage

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