Getting Ready For Everest 2017

November 29, 2016

Charging the IMG Everest batteries at Gorak Shep, November 2016.

Ang Jangbu checked in from Kathmandu a couple of days ago to let us know that Ang Pasang and Nuru Gyalzen trekked up the valley to our gear storage room in Gorakshep to give our big batteries a charge.Â They fired up a couple of our Honda generators to top up the dozen plus 12V batteries we use at Base Camp with our solar panels, communications, and lighting.Â This will ensure that these batteries are in good shape for the upcoming 2017 Everest expedition.

Thatâ€™s right, it is just after Thanksgiving and time will really move fast now.Â We have a great group of guides, climbers and trekkers on board for this spring and I am looking forward to leading the expedition again.Â Before long, I will be standing on the roof of our hotel in Kathmandu giving the briefing to everyone before we head to EBC!

On our agenda for the near future is shipping our oxygen tanks back to Nepal, shopping for food, and packing more tents and gear for the spring. In Nepal, the Sherpa Team is already taking stock of the gear and supplies that we will be sending up to Khumbu over the coming months.Â The next exciting news will come when we claim our Everest Base Camp site on the glacier!

Greg Vernovage

Vinson: Off To A Good Start!

November 28, 2016

Twin Otter at Vinson base camp

Quick update this morning from â€œthe Iceâ€.Â Mike Hamill got on the sat phone last evening to let me know that the flight in, on the IL 76, went smoothly and that the team was able to transfer over to Vinson base camp soon thereafter.Â The IL lands at the Union Glacier, about 80 degrees South.Â The team then grabbed all the gear we leave on the Ice over the winter, had a great, hot meal served by the staff of ALE and then flew in one of the Twin Otters over to Vinson base camp â€“ about 7,000 ft and about 79 degrees South.

I have no doubt they slept well last night after such a long day and getting their tents set up and camp established.Â Mike said forecast looks favorable for a couple of days and that heâ€™s planning on having the team make a carry to C1 today.Â â€˜When the fish are running, itâ€™s time to go fishingâ€™.

Nice start to the trip.

Phil Ershler

First IMG Antarctica Team Ready to Fly Onto the Ice

November 27, 2016

The 2016/17 Vinson Massif season has begun.Â Only a few potential ‘screw ups’ with arrivals, but at the end of the day, all’s well that ends well.Â Everyone showed up in Punta in time and with all their luggage in tow.Â Ideally, the team would have flown in the morning of the 26th, but flying onto the Ice with only a 24 hour delay ain’t bad.

IMG guide Mike Hamill with the first IMG Vinson team

Mike Hamill, for the umpteenth time, is again at the helm.Â I always liked going in on the first Vinson expedition for the season.Â Mountain is fresh, aircraft are in top shape and all the staff down in Antarctica are excited to get going.Â A little chilly, typically, but it IS Antarctica, after all.

Follow along and see how it all unfolds.Â The crew’s excited to go climb Vinson.

Phil Ershler

IMG Climber Summits Chimborazo

November 25, 2016

Received the email below from Eric, one of our November Ecuador trip team members, who wanted to take a shot at Chimborazo after the regular trip.Â Romulo was able to accommodate and Eric describes the results below.Â Nice job, Eric!

Phil Ershler

———————————————————–

From: Eric Huang
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 8:48 AM
To: IMG
Subject: Ecuador

Hi, just a quick update on Chimborazo.

We set up high camp at 17700 ft just under the Castle yesterday morning. By 11pm Romulo and I started our traverse onto the southwest ridge. The snow line was reached at nearly 19000 ft, so the initial part was just on climbing boots without crampons. The weather was super nice, clear sky, just a little below zero with no wind at all. I was wearing a base layer and a medium insulation layer.

: Romulo and Eric on the summit of Chimborazo (photo: Eric Huang Collection)

: A new day on the furthest point from the center of the earth (photo: Eric Huang Collection)

: Thumbs up from Eric (photo: Eric Huang Collection)

Starting from high camp obviously gave us a lot advantages. We took many 30 secs breath catching breaks and still manage to reach the Ventimilla summit at 4:40. It was still dark so we continued onto the main summit and by 5:15 Romulo and I stood on Whymper! We took some pictures and watched sun raise.

Romulo and I are off the mountain now and will have a celebration lunch. Romulo will drive me to airport tonight.

Thanks, and Happy thanksgiving!

Eric Huang, IMG Climber

Kautz Glacier Route: A Mt. Rainier “Classic”

November 22, 2016

: Climbers in the Kautz Ice Chute (Photo: to Pattie O’Rourke)

: Kautz Route (Photo: Mark Ursino)

: Kautz Route (Photo: Mark Ursino)

Mt. Rainier continues to be one of the most sought after climbing objectives in the United States.Â For decades it has served as a place for people to â€œtest outâ€ mountaineering.Â It has also served as the premier training ground for people preparing for expeditions to Alaska and the Himalayas.Â Although it is the most heavily glaciated peak in the lower 48, with over 50 different climbing routes, the Disappointment Cleaver remains the most heavily used path to the summit.Â Roughly 60% of climbers on Rainier use this route.

If you have climbed the Disappointment Cleaver Route, or are looking for something a little more challenging and off the beaten path, the Kautz Glacier Route might be exactly what you are looking for.

This Kautz provides great climbing, and is a true Mt. Rainier â€œClassic.â€Â It is a perfect fit for anyone with prior alpine climbing experience looking to increase their climbing skills.Â The highlight of the climb is the 1000 foot Kautz Ice Chute.Â It a 50-60 degree slope with a variety of exciting route options.Â This section gives participants a chance to climb moderately steep ice, all while using more advanced climbing techniques.Â Climbers often come away from this trip with a greater appreciation of what is possible in the mountains.Â It is for all of these reasons that the Kautz Glacier Route is a guide favorite!

If this sounds like something you would be interested in, you can read more about it at the following webpage: http://www.mountainguides.com/rnr-kautz.shtml.

Hope to see you next summer!

Josh McDowell

Ecuador: Hike up Pinchincha

November 22, 2016

: Hiking on Pinchincha

: Hiking on Pinchincha

: Hiking on Pinchincha

Luke and most of the team arrived home today.Â They wrapped up Monday with a hike up Pinchincha, outside of QuitoÂ and a final dinner together in town before heading to the airport and flights home. Â Â One member, Eric, wanted to make an attempt on Chimborazo so Romulo and he are off to do just that.Â Weâ€™ll be wishing them good conditions and good weather.

Phil Ershler

That’s a Wrap: Ecuador and Mexico

November 21, 2016

Ecuador team relaxing at the Hacienda San Augustin

Over the weekend, we wrapped up the Mexico trip and the gang in Ecuador will be flying home late tonight.Â Working with the Reyes family in Mexico made all the logistics issues down there simple.Â After their successful climb of Orizaba, the team had a nice dinner (after nice showers) at the Reyes family compound in Tlachichua and then spent the night there.Â They traveled in private transportation back to Mexico City Saturday morning and all got back together that evening for one final dinner.Â It was a good trip and everyone caught flights home Sunday morning.Â Next expedition to the Mexico volcanos is 28 January with Josh McDowell leading.Â Still time and space to join the team.

The team in Ecuador was bummed with the weather they â€˜drewâ€™ on Antisana but determined to make the most of their last bit of time in country.Â They visited an old friend, Jorge Anhalzer, who is â€˜retiredâ€™ climbing guide and a simply great photographer.Â Heâ€™s authored, with Romuloâ€™s assistance, a number of coffee table books about the people and country of Ecuador.Â Then, Romuloâ€™s wife, Patricia, prepared the Ecuadorian delicacy cuy as lunch for the crew at their house.Â For those who donâ€™t know, cuy is guinea pig.Â Monday will be a hike up Pinchincha and then off to the airport for flights home.

Luke heads back to Ecuador with our next team on 5 January.Â 2 slots remain.

Next up â€“ Vinson Massif.Â First expedition of the season begins on 23 November with flights to Punta Arenas, Chile.Â Mike Hamill and team will kick off the season for us.Â Stay tuned.

Phil Ershler

Ecuador Team Ready For Antisana

November 18, 2016

Hotel La Cienega

Luke and team had a chance to check in this afternoon from high camp on Antisana.Â Weather has been good today.Â A little foggy now but likely to clear tonight.Â Theyâ€™re ready to take a shot in the morning.

Reports have it that conditions are reasonable up high.Â Thereâ€™s often a problem with a bergschrund just below the summit but doesnâ€™t seem to be the case this season.Â A couple of steep sections which can likely be safely passed with a couple of running belays.

Luke will try to report in when they get back to camp tomorrow.Â If all goes well, theyâ€™ll try to get all the way to the Hotel La Cienega, near the town of Latacunga, tomorrow evening.

Phil Ershler

Mexico Team Summits!

November 18, 2016

: Team on the Summit

: Start of the Glacier

Back in the saddle this morning for Austin and crew in Mexico.Â Great climbing conditions and good weather made for a sweet climb of Orizaba this morning.Â Orizabaâ€™s the third highest peak in North America.Â Well done, team.

Theyâ€™ll head back to Mexico City in the morning for one final â€˜day on the townâ€™ together.

Phil Ershler

Update from Mexico and Ecuador

November 16, 2016

: High Camp on Ixta

: Team on Ixta

: Climbing Cayambe

: Summit of Cayambe

Letâ€™s get caught up on this morningâ€™s summit attempts.Â Down in Mexico, Austin and team gotÂ shut out.Â Weather turned for the worse last night and heavy snow kept the team in camp.Â Bummer.Â Teamâ€™s retreated and is heading now for the city of Puebla.Â Theyâ€™ve still got another shot when they head tomorrow morning to Orizaba.Â Weather said no this morning but the teamâ€™s upbeat and ready for an attempt on Orizaba.

Better luck in Ecuador.Â Luke and team summited Cayambe this morning.Â Cold and a bit breezy but clear.Â Theyâ€™re off the mountain and now on their way to the hot springs of Papallacta.Â If itâ€™s clear, theyâ€™ll get a good view of their next objective â€“ Antisana.

Phil Ershler