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Kautz Glacier Route: A Mt. Rainier “Classic”

November 22, 2016

Climbers in the Kautz Ice Chute (Photo: to Pattie O’Rourke)
Kautz Route (Photo: Mark Ursino)
Kautz Route (Photo: Mark Ursino)

 

Mt. Rainier continues to be one of the most sought after climbing objectives in the United States.  For decades it has served as a place for people to “test out” mountaineering.  It has also served as the premier training ground for people preparing for expeditions to Alaska and the Himalayas.  Although it is the most heavily glaciated peak in the lower 48, with over 50 different climbing routes, the Disappointment Cleaver remains the most heavily used path to the summit.  Roughly 60% of climbers on Rainier use this route.

If you have climbed the Disappointment Cleaver Route, or are looking for something a little more challenging and off the beaten path, the Kautz Glacier Route might be exactly what you are looking for.

This Kautz provides great climbing, and is a true Mt. Rainier “Classic.”  It is a perfect fit for anyone with prior alpine climbing experience looking to increase their climbing skills.  The highlight of the climb is the 1000 foot Kautz Ice Chute.  It a 50-60 degree slope with a variety of exciting route options.  This section gives participants a chance to climb moderately steep ice, all while using more advanced climbing techniques.  Climbers often come away from this trip with a greater appreciation of what is possible in the mountains.  It is for all of these reasons that the Kautz Glacier Route is a guide favorite!

If this sounds like something you would be interested in, you can read more about it at the following webpage: http://www.mountainguides.com/rnr-kautz.shtml.

Hope to see you next summer!

Josh McDowell

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Ecuador: Hike up Pinchincha

November 22, 2016

Hiking on Pinchincha
Hiking on Pinchincha
Hiking on Pinchincha

 

Luke and most of the team arrived home today.  They wrapped up Monday with a hike up Pinchincha, outside of Quito  and a final dinner together in town before heading to the airport and flights home.   One member, Eric, wanted to make an attempt on Chimborazo so Romulo and he are off to do just that.  We’ll be wishing them good conditions and good weather.

Phil Ershler

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That’s a Wrap: Ecuador and Mexico

November 21, 2016

Ecuador team relaxing at the Hacienda San Augustin

Ecuador team relaxing at the Hacienda San Augustin

Over the weekend, we wrapped up the Mexico trip and the gang in Ecuador will be flying home late tonight.  Working with the Reyes family in Mexico made all the logistics issues down there simple.  After their successful climb of Orizaba, the team had a nice dinner (after nice showers) at the Reyes family compound in Tlachichua and then spent the night there.  They traveled in private transportation back to Mexico City Saturday morning and all got back together that evening for one final dinner.  It was a good trip and everyone caught flights home Sunday morning.  Next expedition to the Mexico volcanos is 28 January with Josh McDowell leading.  Still time and space to join the team.

The team in Ecuador was bummed with the weather they ‘drew’ on Antisana but determined to make the most of their last bit of time in country.  They visited an old friend, Jorge Anhalzer, who is ‘retired’ climbing guide and a simply great photographer.  He’s authored, with Romulo’s assistance, a number of coffee table books about the people and country of Ecuador.  Then, Romulo’s wife, Patricia, prepared the Ecuadorian delicacy cuy as lunch for the crew at their house.  For those who don’t know, cuy is guinea pig.  Monday will be a hike up Pinchincha and then off to the airport for flights home.

Luke heads back to Ecuador with our next team on 5 January.  2 slots remain.

Next up – Vinson Massif.  First expedition of the season begins on 23 November with flights to Punta Arenas, Chile.  Mike Hamill and team will kick off the season for us.  Stay tuned.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador Team Ready For Antisana

November 18, 2016

Hotel La Cienega

Hotel La Cienega

Luke and team had a chance to check in this afternoon from high camp on Antisana.  Weather has been good today.  A little foggy now but likely to clear tonight.  They’re ready to take a shot in the morning.

Reports have it that conditions are reasonable up high.  There’s often a problem with a bergschrund just below the summit but doesn’t seem to be the case this season.  A couple of steep sections which can likely be safely passed with a couple of running belays.

Luke will try to report in when they get back to camp tomorrow.  If all goes well, they’ll try to get all the way to the Hotel La Cienega, near the town of Latacunga, tomorrow evening.

Phil Ershler

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Mexico Team Summits!

November 18, 2016

Team on the Summit
Start of the Glacier

 

Back in the saddle this morning for Austin and crew in Mexico.  Great climbing conditions and good weather made for a sweet climb of Orizaba this morning.  Orizaba’s the third highest peak in North America.  Well done, team.

They’ll head back to Mexico City in the morning for one final ‘day on the town’ together.

Phil Ershler

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Update from Mexico and Ecuador

November 16, 2016

High Camp on Ixta
Team on Ixta
Climbing Cayambe
Summit of Cayambe

 

Let’s get caught up on this morning’s summit attempts.  Down in Mexico, Austin and team got  shut out.  Weather turned for the worse last night and heavy snow kept the team in camp.  Bummer.  Team’s retreated and is heading now for the city of Puebla.  They’ve still got another shot when they head tomorrow morning to Orizaba.  Weather said no this morning but the team’s upbeat and ready for an attempt on Orizaba.

Better luck in Ecuador.  Luke and team summited Cayambe this morning.  Cold and a bit breezy but clear.  They’re off the mountain and now on their way to the hot springs of Papallacta.  If it’s clear, they’ll get a good view of their next objective – Antisana.

Phil Ershler

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Tomorrow is Summit Day

November 15, 2016

Cayambe
Ixta

 

Tomorrow is summit day — for both Austin and team in Mexico and Luke and his crew in Ecuador.  Everyone on each team is at high camp and ready to take a shot in the morning.  Ixta and Cayambe are both alpine climbs meaning alpine starts.  Teams will be getting up around midnight, having a quick breakfast and starting to walk.  Weather tends to be a bit more settled, snow is better for cramponing and the team also gives themselves a ‘cushion of daylight’ at the end of the climbing day to deal with anything which might arise.  You always hate getting out of the sleeping bag at that hour but you end up never regretting an early start.

Weather looks reasonable for each team so let’s see how tomorrow goes.  We’ll be getting two sat phone calls at some point and will let you know what we hear.  Wishing everyone the best.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador and Mexico Teams Checking In

November 14, 2016

Mexico Team Near Cortez Pass

Mexico Team Near Cortez Pass

A quick update from our teams currently in Mexico and Ecuador.  Austin and crew had a great acclimatization hike yesterday and are making a carry with some gear/water up to high camp on Ixta today.  All’s good and looks like a fair amount of new snow on the mountains.  Team will stay at the Altzimoni Hut at Cortez Pass tonight.

In Ecuador, Luke, Romulo and crew are heading to the refugio on Cayambe today.  A skills refresher tomorrow.  Two nights at the refugio and an extra day there will help with the acclimatization.  So far, so good.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador and Mexico Teams off to Good Start

November 13, 2016

Luke reported in saying all luggage is now in hand and that everything else is going smoothly.  Since arriving in Otavalo, the crew’s been hiking around Cuicocha, visited a local weaver who’s a good friend of Romulo (and ours) and spent Saturday morning visiting the animal market as well as checking out the famous Otavalo Market after breakfast.  Dinner was at a beautiful hacienda about 30 mins from town.  Hiking Fuya Fuya is on the agenda for Sunday, with the team ending up at Papa Gayo, near the town of Cayambe, for the night. All good.

IMG Mexico team
Lago Cuicocha
Hacienda Pinsaqui
Hacienda Pinsaqui

 

A bit north in the country of Mexico, Austin Shannon is leading our first Mexico Volcanos trip of the season. Everyone arrived Saturday afternoon AND with all their luggage.  After introductions and a short team meeting at our hotel, the team headed out to their first dinner together.  They’re off Sunday morning for the town of Amecameca and their first look at Ixta as well as their first acclimatization hike. Off to a good start.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador Team Enjoying Quito, on to Otavalo

November 11, 2016

Team at the Monument to the Virgin of Quito

Team at the Monument to the Virgin of Quito

Our first Ecuador trip of the season has begun.  IMG Senior Guide, Luke Reilly, and our Ecuadorian partner, Romulo Cardenas, are at the helm.  We’re wishing them all good weather and good luck.

All members arrived late last evening.  One bag is still “MIA” but we’re hoping to see that soon.  A tour of Old Town, a visit to many of the famous cathedrals and a stop at the equator filled the morning.  The team is now in the town of Otavalo, north of the equator.  Visits to Peguche and the famous Otavalo Market are on the agenda for tonight/tomorrow and pizza is on the menu for tonight.

Stayed tuned.  We’ll have many more updates from Luke, Romulo and the team.

Phil Ershler

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