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Teams Push Higher on Vinson and Aconcagua

January 4, 2017

Antarctic view from above
Antarctic view from above
Return to C1 on Aconcagua
Return to C1 on Aconcagua

 

All’s going according to plan in Argentina and Antarctica.  Greg called in Tue afternoon to say the team made the move to high camp.  Weather’s good with only light winds.  Everyone’s ready to take their shot on Wed.  We have high hopes.

On Aconcagua, Josh and crew made a tough carry to C2, approx. 18,500’.  Windy day made for a hard push.  The chess game begins.  How hard to push, when to push, and when to wait.  Forecasts are just forecasts and not guarantees, but they help.  Team is planning on just staying at C1 tomorrow and let the mountain ‘blow’ for another day.  It’ll be good for their strength and acclimatization and just make them stronger for the days ahead.

Phil Ershler

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All Smiles Despite A Little Driving Rain

January 3, 2017

The entrance to the French Valley. (Chris Meder)

The entrance to the French Valley. (Chris Meder)

It rains in Patagonia. It’s windy in Patagonia. Sometimes it hails in Patagonia. Sometimes it does all three at the same time. Chris called in this afternoon from Refugio Paine Grande reporting that they had a pretty good day on the trail. The French Valley was predominantly socked in with clouds but they were able to get the occasional peak at the hanging glaciers. Instead of heading up to the viewpoint they opted for Plan B and went down to the river at the toe of the glacier.

After lunch they were ‘motivated’ to get to the hut by a little wind, rain and hail.  Refugio Paine Grande is a hut in name only, it sits lakeside and has more of a hotel feel. If I know this team they’ve already found the bar.  The weather has since cleared up a bit allowing for some great views…from the bar.

Tye Chapman

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New Years Weekend in New Hampshire

January 3, 2017

Champney Falls Ice Climbing (Craig John)
Champney Falls Ice Climbing (Craig John)
One of the Best Playgrounds Around (Craig John)
One of the Best Playgrounds Around (Craig John)
Getting that Technique Dialed (Craig John)
Getting that Technique Dialed (Craig John)
Busy Day at Champney Falls (Craig John)
Busy Day at Champney Falls (Craig John)

Climbing is busy on Mt. Washington and in the White Mountains! The ice is in and there is plenty of snow in the mountains for training and climbing.

Lead guide Craig John sent in some photos from the New Year’s weekend. The weather was stormy so the crew spent some time top roping ice pitches at a couple of areas including Champney Falls.

George Dunn

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Emmons and DC Climbs Sell Out in Record Time

December 29, 2016

Mt. Rainier from White River (Robert Jantzen)
Mt. Rainier from White River (Robert Jantzen)
Sunrise High on Rainier (Robert Jantzen)
Sunrise High on Rainier (Robert Jantzen)
Descending Mt. Rainier With Little T in the Background (Mike Hamill)
Descending Mt. Rainier With Little T in the Background (Mike Hamill)

 

Wow! We’ve had a great end to 2016 here at IMG with all of our Rainier Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver (DC) climbs sold out at the start of the New Year. We would like to thank all of our future climbers for choosing IMG and look forward to a fantastic summer in 2017.

Still looking to climb Rainier, but not signed up yet? There are still options available. We have a few openings on our August 19-25 Glacier Skills Seminar. This 6.5 day climb focuses on building key mountaineering skills for 4 days before taking off for a full on summit attempt.

If you’ve got a bit of mountaineering experience and are comfortable on steep snow and a bit of ice, our Kautz climbs have openings throughout the summer. This is an amazing intermediate route, and a guide favorite.

Our Little Tahoma Seminar, July 2-7, is also looking for climbers. While not on Mt. Rainier proper, Little Tahoma provides a true mountaineering challenge involving both glacier travel and a significant rock scramble on summit day, all with breathtaking views of Rainier and the surrounding area.

For those winter warriors out there, check out the Denali Seminars. This program is focused on skills training, teaching the critical techniques necessary to climb in the greater ranges. Learning proper camp set up and maintenance, introduction to avalanche assessment, navigation and sled hauling make this a ‘must do’ seminar  for the aspiring mountaineer.

Finally, if your schedule is flexible and you’re able to jump on some last minute openings we recommend joining our waitlist. Just send an email to office@mountainguides.com with your name, email, phone number, and the dates you would like to be alerted about.

We are getting excited for a fantastic 2017 season on Rainier and hope you are too!!!

Robert Jantzen

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IMG Aconcagua Teams Making Progress

January 2, 2017

Mountain Shadows

And down on Aconcagua… Jonathan Schrock and team are hiking out.  Long day but packs are super light and terrain is very straightforward.  Cold drinks and the old ‘duffel shuffle’ in Penitentes and then a couple of hours on the road to get back to Mendoza.  Quick shower, clean clothes and a late evening dinner at a sidewalk café.  Just a guess but steak, red wine and cerveza will be likely be on the menu.

Back on the mountain, Josh called in from C1, about 16,000’.  They moved up today to this new camp and altitude.  All went well.  They’ll keep plugging away now, as the winds permit.  No precip shows up in the forecast for the next week.  They still have two more camps prior to taking their summit shot.  A bit too early to start making predictions.  It’s simply one day at a time for now.

Phil Ershler

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A Day In The Bader Valley

January 2, 2017

Leaving the Bader Valley all smiles. (Chris Meder)
Leaving the Bader Valley all smiles. (Chris Meder)
Back down to the main trail back to the hut. (Chris Meder)
Back down to the main trail back to the hut. (Chris Meder)

Lunch at the 'big boulder'. (Chris Meder)
Lunch at the ‘big boulder’. (Chris Meder)
Dinnertime at Los Cuernos. (Chris Meder)
Dinnertime at Los Cuernos. (Chris Meder)


Today our Patagonia Trekkers enjoyed another day on the trail, this time up in the Bader Valley.  The weather wasn’t perfect but that didn’t stop them from having a nice lunch at the “big boulder”, a great vantage point even in less than ideal weather.

After lunch it was back to Refugio Los Cuernos for some bootleg sangria. That’s right, bootleg sangria. The team has taken to combining the fruit from their lunches with the wine served in the refugios to make their own sangria. It’s rough livin’ on this trek.

Tomorrow they’ll load-up and head over to Refugio Paine Grande, stopping in the French Valley for another postcard moment, weather permitting of course. Tomorrow is a bit longer of a day but a very enjoyable hike!

Tye Chapman

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IMG Vinson Team Waiting on Weather in Antarctica

January 2, 2017

Just off the sat phone with Greg Vernovage from C1 on Vinson Massif.  They snuck in a carry yesterday, just the fixed ropes and cached just short of high camp.  Forecast was calling for higher winds yesterday and today that don’t seem to be developing.  Greg and crew are taking a day off today at C1 and will be ready to move to high camp tomorrow, winds permitting.  They’re feeling quite strong and ready to push to the summit as soon as ‘signs say yes’.

Antarctic scenery near C1 (photo: Phil Ershler)

Indication is for milder temps (by Antarctica standards) for the next couple of days, so we’re crossing fingers.  Bottom line: all’s good with the crew and they now just need two reasonable weather days to take a shot at the summit.  Can’t ask for a lot more than that.

Phil Ershler

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Another IMG Team Summits Aconcagua

January 1, 2017

Always happy to report on a summit but even happier to report that a team has returned to high camp and made their safe descent down to base camp the following day.

Some of our summit crew

That’s exactly where Jonathan, Martin and team are after their successful climb.  And they are VERY happy to be off that upper mountain.  Cold and nasty at high camp while everything is better at Plaza Mulas.  We traverse the mountain, returning to Plaza Mulas, as it gives us an easier/quicker descent from high camp, and it also cuts off one day of the walk out.  Plus, it’s just kind of cool to do a traverse.  Jonathan’s team will be eating steak in Mendoza by late Monday evening.

Cold climbing on summit day

Josh McDowell also checked in.  Team made a carry today to C1 and anticipate moving up to that camp in the morning.  It’s one step at a time for those guys.  Don’t rush but just keep plugging away.

Phil Ershler

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Patagonia Trekkers Move To Los Cuernos

January 1, 2017

Los Cuernos Panorama. (Photo by Tye Chapman)

Los Cuernos Panorama. (Photo by Tye Chapman)

Chris Meder checked in from Refugio Los Cuernos this evening after a nice leisurely trek from Refugio Chileno. They took their time stopping at all the viewpoints – just enjoying where they were in the world. Chris said they rang in the new year in style last night. “The folks in the kitchen grilled up some meat & even put out a chocolate fountain for dessert. I can safely say nobody was expecting that.  In the end, it was a great celebration full of people from a lot of different backgrounds which made for a good time. We counted down from 10 in Spanish and rang in the new year with all of our new friends. Perfect ”

Tomorrow is an out and back day for the team, no huge rush. They’ll head up into the Bader Valley, another special permit valley where they’ll have the trail all to themselves. A couple might opt to stay along the lake for the day, while others might cut the day a little short, perfectly reasonable decisions if you ask me!

Tye Chapman

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Patagonia Trekkers Enjoy Some Silence

December 31, 2016

A panorama of the Silence Valley with La Fortaleza and El Escudo in the in the middle (L to R). (Tye Chapman)

A panorama of the Silence Valley featuring La Fortaleza and El Escudo. (L to R). (Tye Chapman)

Our Patagonia trekkers enjoyed a great day up in the Silence Valley. Where the trail ends, our team kept going. The trail quickly turns from a wide trail full of trekkers into a ‘choose your own adventure’ through a boulder field, followed by a narrow foot path that meanders next to a swift stream. After a quick break they turned it uphill through a dry creek bed to the treeline. Once they caught their breath they pushed above the treeline and traversed onto the lateral moraine of the Silence Glacier. From there they enjoyed views of the massive granite peaks La Fortaleza (fortress) and El Escudo (shield). After lunch they made their way back down to Refugio Chileno where they will ring in the new year. According to Chris, the cooks were grilling up something special tonight!

Tomorrow is a relatively low key day (nice timing after NYE!).  Their one and only goal is to make their way to Refugio Los Cuernos, a manageable goal even with a hangover.

Let the countdown begin!

Tye Chapman

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