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Patagonia Trekkers Taking It All In

January 5, 2016

The team at dinner at Refguio Grey. (Photo Tad Sotomayor)
The team at dinner at Refguio Grey. (Photo Tad Sotomayor)
The iceberg mentioned yesterday. Photo Tad Sotomayor
The iceberg mentioned yesterday. Photo Tad Sotomayor

Chris Meder called in from Refugio Grey this afternoon to report yet another great day in Torres del Paine. The team explored the Grey Glacier area today, enjoying every minute! They were on their way to dinner when Chris called so I didn’t get a ton of details other than “everyone is having a blast”. I think I was getting the brush off.

Tomorrow is their last day in Torres del Paine and it’s not to be wasted. They’ve seen and done it all so tomorrow can be as casual as they want – a few might head up the trail a bit to get the sunrise, others will sleep in a bit and stretch the legs to the lookout, while others might enjoy a cup of coffee and some time reading in the lounge. Bottom-line is they have a boat to catch tomorrow so they’ll all reconvene for lunch before hopping on the Grey III boat and heading back to their awaiting van ride back to Puerto Natales for their celebration dinner.

One more check-in tomorrow and this trek is a wrap.

Tye Chapman

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Chess Game

January 5, 2017

Artistic ice

Artistic ice

Josh and team are ‘working their plan’.  The team moved to C2 today.  Our great Argentine guide, Martin, stayed at C2 with the crew to make sure all was good.  While Martin was taking care of the crew, Josh and Nickel, each grabbed a big pack full of group gear and continued up to Camp 3 (high camp).  A huge effort by these two guides to help put the team into position.  As has been forecasted, winds are lessening and supposed to stay ‘lower’ for the next couple of days.  Josh’s plan is to move to high camp tomorrow with the team, using a bit of extra porter support.  Signs say Saturday will likely be the best day for a summit attempt and that’s exactly what the team hopes to do.  It is indeed a ‘chess game’.  Winds need to stay at a reasonable level and our team needs to stay healthy.

So far, so good.

Phil Ershler

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Fat, SMART, and Happy

January 5, 2017

Headed back to Union Glacier

Headed back to Union Glacier

Greg and team made the smart mountaineering call this morning and took advantage of another day of good weather and began their descent to Vinson base camp.  When they arrived, a Twin Otter aircraft was  waiting and within 45 minutes they were airborne and headed to the Union Glacier camp.  ALE, the flight service, provides sensational meals, 24 hr hot water and a large tent with tables and chairs for eating, playing cards or reading.  The IL isn’t scheduled to fly for another couple of days but that’s totally fine.  Vinson is in the bag, the team’s healthy and they are totally ‘living large’.

Phil Ershler

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A Perfect Day In Patagonia

January 4, 2017

The team this morning making their way to Refugio Grey.

The team this morning making their way to Refugio Grey.

Chris Meder called in from Refugio Grey this afternoon to report an absolutely perfect day today. They trekked from Paine Grande to Refugio Grey enjoying big views of Lago Grey and the icebergs from Grey Glacier floating therein.  After lunch and getting settled in they took advantage of the nice afternoon weather and went kayaking. Chris reports that an iceberg recently calved off the main glacier and is currently adrift right off shore. “It’s a couple hundred feed above water and who knows how deep it goes! Needless to say we gave it a wide berth on our kayak tour,” Chris added.  A late dinner followed. And if that wasn’t enough they wrapped up the day with a beaut of a sunset down at the lookout point.

There’s still plenty to do tomorrow!

Tye Chapman

P.S. Tomorrow we’re going to try to squeeze a photo of the iceberg out of the limited service that exists near the hut.

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Success on Vinson! Aconcagua Team Prepares for C2

January 4, 2017

Three old guides on the summit of Vinson (prior expedition)

Three old guides on the summit of Vinson (prior expedition)

IMG’s first expedition to Vinson was in 1989.  That expedition to Vinson was successful, as has been every IMG expedition there since.  Today’s trip was no exception ——- Greg called shortly after noon to let me know the team and he were standing on the summit!!  Great weather and a super team.  Couldn’t have gone much better.  We couldn’t be more excited for them or prouder of their accomplishment.  Heather, Jacy, Sam AND Greg – congratulations!  They’ll spend tonight at high camp and be back at Vinson base by tomorrow evening.  After that – their fate is in the hands of the weather gods and airplanes.  It’s easy to be patiently waiting for a flight when you have a safe summit climb under your belt.

Josh, too, called in from Aconcagua.  As expected, winds were strong today at C1 and certainly much stronger at C2.  The team stayed put.  Tomorrow is the planned move day now to C2.  Winds are forecast to begin lessening.  Let’s hope the forecast is accurate.  Everyone’s fine and certainly benefited from another day at C1.  The chess game continues.

Phil Ershler

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IMG Everest 2017 base camp site claimed

January 4, 2017

IMG 2017 EBC site claimed (Chewang Lendu)
IMG 2017 EBC site claimed (Chewang Lendu)
It looks like a gravel pit now, but after a few months and a few thousand hours of work it will be a small village! (Chewang Lendu)
It looks like a gravel pit now, but after a few months and a few thousand hours of work it will be a small village! (Chewang Lendu)

The 2017 Everest expedition is just around the corner, and in less than 3 months our trekkers and climbers will be on their way.  Ang Jangbu reports that yesterday Chewang Lendu and Pasang Nima claimed our IMG base camp site.  This has been our site for the last several years, but since it is on the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier (with moving ice underneath) it changes every year.  The base camp looks pretty desolate now, but after a lot of work it will be a small village for our teams.  We like this place because it is some distance  away from the big BC encampment, has more space for our tents, and has water nearby.  Chewang and Pasang spent the night before at Gorak Shep, then headed up to Base Camp yesterday to claim the site by leaving a marking banner on a rock.  Then, they headed back home to Phortse.

Eric Simonson

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Teams Push Higher on Vinson and Aconcagua

January 4, 2017

Antarctic view from above
Antarctic view from above
Return to C1 on Aconcagua
Return to C1 on Aconcagua

 

All’s going according to plan in Argentina and Antarctica.  Greg called in Tue afternoon to say the team made the move to high camp.  Weather’s good with only light winds.  Everyone’s ready to take their shot on Wed.  We have high hopes.

On Aconcagua, Josh and crew made a tough carry to C2, approx. 18,500’.  Windy day made for a hard push.  The chess game begins.  How hard to push, when to push, and when to wait.  Forecasts are just forecasts and not guarantees, but they help.  Team is planning on just staying at C1 tomorrow and let the mountain ‘blow’ for another day.  It’ll be good for their strength and acclimatization and just make them stronger for the days ahead.

Phil Ershler

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All Smiles Despite A Little Driving Rain

January 3, 2017

The entrance to the French Valley. (Chris Meder)

The entrance to the French Valley. (Chris Meder)

It rains in Patagonia. It’s windy in Patagonia. Sometimes it hails in Patagonia. Sometimes it does all three at the same time. Chris called in this afternoon from Refugio Paine Grande reporting that they had a pretty good day on the trail. The French Valley was predominantly socked in with clouds but they were able to get the occasional peak at the hanging glaciers. Instead of heading up to the viewpoint they opted for Plan B and went down to the river at the toe of the glacier.

After lunch they were ‘motivated’ to get to the hut by a little wind, rain and hail.  Refugio Paine Grande is a hut in name only, it sits lakeside and has more of a hotel feel. If I know this team they’ve already found the bar.  The weather has since cleared up a bit allowing for some great views…from the bar.

Tye Chapman

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New Years Weekend in New Hampshire

January 3, 2017

Champney Falls Ice Climbing (Craig John)
Champney Falls Ice Climbing (Craig John)
Getting that Technique Dialed (Craig John)
Getting that Technique Dialed (Craig John)
One of the Best Playgrounds Around (Craig John)
One of the Best Playgrounds Around (Craig John)
Busy Day at Champney Falls (Craig John)
Busy Day at Champney Falls (Craig John)

Climbing is busy on Mt. Washington and in the White Mountains! The ice is in and there is plenty of snow in the mountains for training and climbing.

Lead guide Craig John sent in some photos from the New Year’s weekend. The weather was stormy so the crew spent some time top roping ice pitches at a couple of areas including Champney Falls.

George Dunn

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Emmons and DC Climbs Sell Out in Record Time

December 29, 2016

Mt. Rainier from White River (Robert Jantzen)
Mt. Rainier from White River (Robert Jantzen)
Sunrise High on Rainier (Robert Jantzen)
Sunrise High on Rainier (Robert Jantzen)
Descending Mt. Rainier With Little T in the Background (Mike Hamill)
Descending Mt. Rainier With Little T in the Background (Mike Hamill)

 

Wow! We’ve had a great end to 2016 here at IMG with all of our Rainier Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver (DC) climbs sold out at the start of the New Year. We would like to thank all of our future climbers for choosing IMG and look forward to a fantastic summer in 2017.

Still looking to climb Rainier, but not signed up yet? There are still options available. We have a few openings on our August 19-25 Glacier Skills Seminar. This 6.5 day climb focuses on building key mountaineering skills for 4 days before taking off for a full on summit attempt.

If you’ve got a bit of mountaineering experience and are comfortable on steep snow and a bit of ice, our Kautz climbs have openings throughout the summer. This is an amazing intermediate route, and a guide favorite.

Our Little Tahoma Seminar, July 2-7, is also looking for climbers. While not on Mt. Rainier proper, Little Tahoma provides a true mountaineering challenge involving both glacier travel and a significant rock scramble on summit day, all with breathtaking views of Rainier and the surrounding area.

For those winter warriors out there, check out the Denali Seminars. This program is focused on skills training, teaching the critical techniques necessary to climb in the greater ranges. Learning proper camp set up and maintenance, introduction to avalanche assessment, navigation and sled hauling make this a ‘must do’ seminar  for the aspiring mountaineer.

Finally, if your schedule is flexible and you’re able to jump on some last minute openings we recommend joining our waitlist. Just send an email to office@mountainguides.com with your name, email, phone number, and the dates you would like to be alerted about.

We are getting excited for a fantastic 2017 season on Rainier and hope you are too!!!

Robert Jantzen

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