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Fat, SMART, and Happy

January 5, 2017

Headed back to Union Glacier

Headed back to Union Glacier

Greg and team made the smart mountaineering call this morning and took advantage of another day of good weather and began their descent to Vinson base camp.  When they arrived, a Twin Otter aircraft was  waiting and within 45 minutes they were airborne and headed to the Union Glacier camp.  ALE, the flight service, provides sensational meals, 24 hr hot water and a large tent with tables and chairs for eating, playing cards or reading.  The IL isn’t scheduled to fly for another couple of days but that’s totally fine.  Vinson is in the bag, the team’s healthy and they are totally ‘living large’.

Phil Ershler

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A Perfect Day In Patagonia

January 4, 2017

The team this morning making their way to Refugio Grey.

The team this morning making their way to Refugio Grey.

Chris Meder called in from Refugio Grey this afternoon to report an absolutely perfect day today. They trekked from Paine Grande to Refugio Grey enjoying big views of Lago Grey and the icebergs from Grey Glacier floating therein.  After lunch and getting settled in they took advantage of the nice afternoon weather and went kayaking. Chris reports that an iceberg recently calved off the main glacier and is currently adrift right off shore. “It’s a couple hundred feed above water and who knows how deep it goes! Needless to say we gave it a wide berth on our kayak tour,” Chris added.  A late dinner followed. And if that wasn’t enough they wrapped up the day with a beaut of a sunset down at the lookout point.

There’s still plenty to do tomorrow!

Tye Chapman

P.S. Tomorrow we’re going to try to squeeze a photo of the iceberg out of the limited service that exists near the hut.

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Success on Vinson! Aconcagua Team Prepares for C2

January 4, 2017

Three old guides on the summit of Vinson (prior expedition)

Three old guides on the summit of Vinson (prior expedition)

IMG’s first expedition to Vinson was in 1989.  That expedition to Vinson was successful, as has been every IMG expedition there since.  Today’s trip was no exception ——- Greg called shortly after noon to let me know the team and he were standing on the summit!!  Great weather and a super team.  Couldn’t have gone much better.  We couldn’t be more excited for them or prouder of their accomplishment.  Heather, Jacy, Sam AND Greg – congratulations!  They’ll spend tonight at high camp and be back at Vinson base by tomorrow evening.  After that – their fate is in the hands of the weather gods and airplanes.  It’s easy to be patiently waiting for a flight when you have a safe summit climb under your belt.

Josh, too, called in from Aconcagua.  As expected, winds were strong today at C1 and certainly much stronger at C2.  The team stayed put.  Tomorrow is the planned move day now to C2.  Winds are forecast to begin lessening.  Let’s hope the forecast is accurate.  Everyone’s fine and certainly benefited from another day at C1.  The chess game continues.

Phil Ershler

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IMG Everest 2017 base camp site claimed

January 4, 2017

IMG 2017 EBC site claimed (Chewang Lendu)
IMG 2017 EBC site claimed (Chewang Lendu)
It looks like a gravel pit now, but after a few months and a few thousand hours of work it will be a small village! (Chewang Lendu)
It looks like a gravel pit now, but after a few months and a few thousand hours of work it will be a small village! (Chewang Lendu)

The 2017 Everest expedition is just around the corner, and in less than 3 months our trekkers and climbers will be on their way.  Ang Jangbu reports that yesterday Chewang Lendu and Pasang Nima claimed our IMG base camp site.  This has been our site for the last several years, but since it is on the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier (with moving ice underneath) it changes every year.  The base camp looks pretty desolate now, but after a lot of work it will be a small village for our teams.  We like this place because it is some distance  away from the big BC encampment, has more space for our tents, and has water nearby.  Chewang and Pasang spent the night before at Gorak Shep, then headed up to Base Camp yesterday to claim the site by leaving a marking banner on a rock.  Then, they headed back home to Phortse.

Eric Simonson

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Teams Push Higher on Vinson and Aconcagua

January 4, 2017

Antarctic view from above
Antarctic view from above
Return to C1 on Aconcagua
Return to C1 on Aconcagua

 

All’s going according to plan in Argentina and Antarctica.  Greg called in Tue afternoon to say the team made the move to high camp.  Weather’s good with only light winds.  Everyone’s ready to take their shot on Wed.  We have high hopes.

On Aconcagua, Josh and crew made a tough carry to C2, approx. 18,500’.  Windy day made for a hard push.  The chess game begins.  How hard to push, when to push, and when to wait.  Forecasts are just forecasts and not guarantees, but they help.  Team is planning on just staying at C1 tomorrow and let the mountain ‘blow’ for another day.  It’ll be good for their strength and acclimatization and just make them stronger for the days ahead.

Phil Ershler

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All Smiles Despite A Little Driving Rain

January 3, 2017

The entrance to the French Valley. (Chris Meder)

The entrance to the French Valley. (Chris Meder)

It rains in Patagonia. It’s windy in Patagonia. Sometimes it hails in Patagonia. Sometimes it does all three at the same time. Chris called in this afternoon from Refugio Paine Grande reporting that they had a pretty good day on the trail. The French Valley was predominantly socked in with clouds but they were able to get the occasional peak at the hanging glaciers. Instead of heading up to the viewpoint they opted for Plan B and went down to the river at the toe of the glacier.

After lunch they were ‘motivated’ to get to the hut by a little wind, rain and hail.  Refugio Paine Grande is a hut in name only, it sits lakeside and has more of a hotel feel. If I know this team they’ve already found the bar.  The weather has since cleared up a bit allowing for some great views…from the bar.

Tye Chapman

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New Years Weekend in New Hampshire

January 3, 2017

Getting that Technique Dialed (Craig John)
Getting that Technique Dialed (Craig John)
Busy Day at Champney Falls (Craig John)
Busy Day at Champney Falls (Craig John)
One of the Best Playgrounds Around (Craig John)
One of the Best Playgrounds Around (Craig John)
Champney Falls Ice Climbing (Craig John)
Champney Falls Ice Climbing (Craig John)

Climbing is busy on Mt. Washington and in the White Mountains! The ice is in and there is plenty of snow in the mountains for training and climbing.

Lead guide Craig John sent in some photos from the New Year’s weekend. The weather was stormy so the crew spent some time top roping ice pitches at a couple of areas including Champney Falls.

George Dunn

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Emmons and DC Climbs Sell Out in Record Time

December 29, 2016

Mt. Rainier from White River (Robert Jantzen)
Mt. Rainier from White River (Robert Jantzen)
Sunrise High on Rainier (Robert Jantzen)
Sunrise High on Rainier (Robert Jantzen)
Descending Mt. Rainier With Little T in the Background (Mike Hamill)
Descending Mt. Rainier With Little T in the Background (Mike Hamill)

 

Wow! We’ve had a great end to 2016 here at IMG with all of our Rainier Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver (DC) climbs sold out at the start of the New Year. We would like to thank all of our future climbers for choosing IMG and look forward to a fantastic summer in 2017.

Still looking to climb Rainier, but not signed up yet? There are still options available. We have a few openings on our August 19-25 Glacier Skills Seminar. This 6.5 day climb focuses on building key mountaineering skills for 4 days before taking off for a full on summit attempt.

If you’ve got a bit of mountaineering experience and are comfortable on steep snow and a bit of ice, our Kautz climbs have openings throughout the summer. This is an amazing intermediate route, and a guide favorite.

Our Little Tahoma Seminar, July 2-7, is also looking for climbers. While not on Mt. Rainier proper, Little Tahoma provides a true mountaineering challenge involving both glacier travel and a significant rock scramble on summit day, all with breathtaking views of Rainier and the surrounding area.

For those winter warriors out there, check out the Denali Seminars. This program is focused on skills training, teaching the critical techniques necessary to climb in the greater ranges. Learning proper camp set up and maintenance, introduction to avalanche assessment, navigation and sled hauling make this a ‘must do’ seminar  for the aspiring mountaineer.

Finally, if your schedule is flexible and you’re able to jump on some last minute openings we recommend joining our waitlist. Just send an email to office@mountainguides.com with your name, email, phone number, and the dates you would like to be alerted about.

We are getting excited for a fantastic 2017 season on Rainier and hope you are too!!!

Robert Jantzen

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IMG Aconcagua Teams Making Progress

January 2, 2017

Mountain Shadows

And down on Aconcagua… Jonathan Schrock and team are hiking out.  Long day but packs are super light and terrain is very straightforward.  Cold drinks and the old ‘duffel shuffle’ in Penitentes and then a couple of hours on the road to get back to Mendoza.  Quick shower, clean clothes and a late evening dinner at a sidewalk café.  Just a guess but steak, red wine and cerveza will be likely be on the menu.

Back on the mountain, Josh called in from C1, about 16,000’.  They moved up today to this new camp and altitude.  All went well.  They’ll keep plugging away now, as the winds permit.  No precip shows up in the forecast for the next week.  They still have two more camps prior to taking their summit shot.  A bit too early to start making predictions.  It’s simply one day at a time for now.

Phil Ershler

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A Day In The Bader Valley

January 2, 2017

Leaving the Bader Valley all smiles. (Chris Meder)
Leaving the Bader Valley all smiles. (Chris Meder)
Back down to the main trail back to the hut. (Chris Meder)
Back down to the main trail back to the hut. (Chris Meder)

Lunch at the 'big boulder'. (Chris Meder)
Lunch at the ‘big boulder’. (Chris Meder)
Dinnertime at Los Cuernos. (Chris Meder)
Dinnertime at Los Cuernos. (Chris Meder)


Today our Patagonia Trekkers enjoyed another day on the trail, this time up in the Bader Valley.  The weather wasn’t perfect but that didn’t stop them from having a nice lunch at the “big boulder”, a great vantage point even in less than ideal weather.

After lunch it was back to Refugio Los Cuernos for some bootleg sangria. That’s right, bootleg sangria. The team has taken to combining the fruit from their lunches with the wine served in the refugios to make their own sangria. It’s rough livin’ on this trek.

Tomorrow they’ll load-up and head over to Refugio Paine Grande, stopping in the French Valley for another postcard moment, weather permitting of course. Tomorrow is a bit longer of a day but a very enjoyable hike!

Tye Chapman

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