May 2nd, 2024
Heading for high camp on the upper ridge of Ama Dablam
While the climbers on Everest were pinned down by another windy day up high, lower down the Khumbu valley the Ama Dablam team were able to move up to Camp 2.7. This camp is situated on the ridge between the traditional camps 2 & 3. Porter reports that they are doing OK, and that the wind has dropped off a bit. They’ll see how they are doing in the morning, and make a decision at that time whether to push for the summit.
May 1st, 2024
Weather map May 1 2023
It’s the time of the season that everyone starts to pay close attention to the weather reports! Our custom weather forecaster says that the jet stream is moving across the Himalayas, with winds currently over 100 knots at the summit of Everest. Ang Jangbu reports from Everest BC that most of the IMG climbers have descended down to Pangboche for a few days of rest at lower altitude. Up on Everest, we’ve heard that some teams lost their big tents at Camp 2. Our sherpas at Camp 2 have kept our camp from blowing away, thanks to their hard work! Down at Ama Dablam, Porter McMichael says the team had a smooth trip up to Camp 1 today, and that they are tucked in, protected from the wind and doing well, but that up higher it is blasting. Hopefully it will start diminishing tomorrow!
April 29, 2024
The IMG climbers and sherpas on Everest and Ama Dablam are back at Base Camp now, after their respective rotations. The Everest crew tagged Camp 3 yesterday and descended to Camp 2, then descended the Icefall today in the early morning, arriving to Everest Base Camp in time for a late breakfast. Over on Ama Dablam, the team overnighted at Camp 1, then tagged Camp 2, and are now back down to Mingbo Base Camp. Next up for everyone are several well-deserved days of rest.
It has been windy up high on Everest the last couple days, but nonetheless the EOA fixing team has managed to get the route fixed to the South Col, which is great news. Now the various teams will begin stocking Camp 4 for the summit bids.
April 26th, 2024
Ang Jangbu reports that the EOA fixing teams reached the Yellow Band today, so they are making good progress on Lhotse Face. Hopefully they will reach South Col in next couple days. Phunuru and our IMG climbers are doing well at Camp 2, acclimatizing and planning to take a short hike up towards the Lhotse Face tomorrow. We also have a team of sherpas carrying from EBC up to Camp 2 today.
At Everest Base Camp our IMG Liaison Officers Khim Goutam and Suraj Paudyal came up for a visit and to attend a meeting with the various expedition teams called by the Municipality regarding the enforcement of the new rule requiring climbers carry all poop down from the upper mountain. At IMG we have been doing this for many years at Rainier and Denali, so it’s not a big deal for us to comply. We are supportive of the new rules to keep the mountain cleaner.
Down at Ama Dablam, Porter McMichael’s team took an easy day at Mingbo BC, after flying up from Lukla yesterday. Next up for them is an acclimatization lap up to Camps 1 and 2. All’s well in Nepal!
April 24th, 2024
Phunuru reports from Camp 1 that the IMG climbers are safe and sound up there, after a smooth trip today up the Icefall. Camp 1 is located among the crevasses above the Icefall, which provides protection to the Camp in case anything comes off the West Shoulder. The climbers will spend two nights at Camp 1 for acclimatization, with a hike up into the Western Cwm scheduled for tomorrow. Higher up, the Camp 2 team got the dining tent erected and that Camp is now ready for occupation. The rope fixing team on the Lhotse Face has been making good progress and IMG senior sherpa Ang Karma climbed up to Camp 3 to claim our campsite there.
Lower down, Porter McMichael and the Mera team flew from Khote back to Lukla, and are enjoying a night of thick air down there. They are scheduled to fly up tomorrow morning to Mingbo Base Camp, at Ama Dablam, where they will continue their alternative acclimatization program with a climb of Ama Dablam, before moving up to Mt Everest. So far so good, everyone is doing well and the team is on schedule.
April 22, 2024
April 21, 2024
Ang Jangbu and Phunuru report that the Everest climbers did their dry run today up into the lower part of the Khumbu Icefall, to test their systems and get some practice. Meanwhile, we had 6 Sherpas carry to Camp 2, and our Sherpa Camp 2 cooks moved up to Camp 1 to acclimatize (yes, sherpas need to acclimatize too!). All the sherpas and climbers will take a rest day tomorrow, with the plan to move up to Camp 1 the following day.
Over on Mera Peak, Porter and team moved up from Khare to the high camp (about 19,000 ft) and will be shooting for the summit tomorrow. Best wishes to them!
April 19, 2024
Ang Jangbu and Phunuru report that the Everest climbers had a good day of training today on the glacier near Base Camp, practicing crossing ladders and making the transitions between ladders and steep icy slopes. These skills are critical for moving smooth and fast in the Khumbu Icefall! Meanwhile, we have six sherpas carrying to Camp 1 today, to start getting that campsite prepared. The climbers will take a rest day tomorrow, then will be planning their “dry run” the following day, going partway up the Icefall to get familiarized with the terrain and rope systems.
Over in the Hinku valley, Porter McMichael and his team had a good acclimatization hike today from Khare up to the Mera La (about 17,750 ft). They will be taking at least one more rest day before heading to the High Camp. All’s well in Nepal!
April 18, 2024
IMG Sherpas Sonam Tashi and Nima Sona did a round trip to Camp 2 yesterday, departing EBC at 2am and returning at about 11:30. They were successful in getting our campsites established, and had a chance to inspect the route work done by the Icefall Doctors. Our Sherpas report that the 2024 route is longer and windier than in the past few years, going closer to the West Shoulder below Camp 1. Over the coming weeks, the route will likely change some more, so we’ll see where it finally ends up. On deck for tomorrow, Ang Jangbu reports that we have 6 Sherpas carrying to Camp 1, and the IMG climbers will be doing ladder training on the glacier near Base Camp, in preparation for their upcoming acclimatization rotation.
Over in the Hinku Valley Porter and the team moved up to Khare today (5000m, 16400 ft), stopping off at the Sabai Lake along the way. Porter reports the team is doing well and enjoying the views of the surrounding mountains.
April 17th, 2024
Good news from Everest Base Camp. Ang Jangbu and Phunuru report that the IMG team is doing well and that the Icefall Doctors have managed to push the route past the bottom of Nuptse. Apparently it is very icy this year in the Icefall (go figure) and there are several big crevasses and ice walls in the lower part of the Western Cwm which made it more difficult than normal to get to Camp 1 and then to get around more obstacles near Nuptse. Above that it is a straight shot up to Camp 2. We have IMG sherpas Sonam Tashi and Nima Sona heading up tomorrow morning to stake out our campsites at Camp 1 and Camp 2.
Over in the Hinku Valley, IMG leader Porter McMichael reports the team had a nice hike today up to Thagnak (about 14,300 ft), near the head of the Hinku Valley. Tomorrow they will take an acclimatization hike up to see Sabai Tsho, the glacial lake that was hit by an avalanche in 1998 which caused the moraine to break and a huge flood to sweep the Hinku Valley. Alls’s well in Nepal!
