August 16, 2017
Huayna Potosi (Greg Vernovage)
Luke checked in from Campamento Argentino reporting that all is well, though they’re socked in with some fog at the moment. They’re hopeful the weather improves overnight for their summit attempt early tomorrow morning. We’ll know more when he calls tomorrow afternoon!
Tye Chapman
August 16, 2017
Woo Hoo! (Photo Dave Feinleib)
After a brief blip when a bridge high on the mountain collapsed on August 12, causing one IMG climb to miss the summit on August 13, a concerted effort by all three guide services resulted in the reestablishment of the route up Rainier. We are now back in action with the results to show for it. Yesterday’s climb on August 15 summited 7 of 8 climbers. The summit team is pictured here, thanks to Dave Feinleib, a member of the group.
The weather remains clear and calm for the most part, but still cold on summit mornings! We are still requiring that all of our climbers bring everything on the IMG Rainier gear list, it is all used.
Thanks to the guides on yesterday’s climb who helped put this effort together: Sara Cohen, Mike Haft, Kim Haft and Josh McDowell. Thanks also to IMG guides who were working behind the scenes to help put in the route. Jason Edwards and Phil Nicoletti climbed through the night ahead of the team to help shovel and work on the new trail reroute. Justin Merle and Rikki Dunn climbed yesterday afternoon after the climb descended and continued work on the route to create a good solid path all the way to the top.
Thank you, IMG guides! Your efforts are often behind the scenes, but they don’t go unrecognized.
George Dunn
August 6, 2017
IMG lead guide Austin Shannon sent us a couple of photos yesterday during a climb he led on the North Ridge of Baker. Conditions continue to be excellent on the route and it should hold up at least through the end of the month. There is still time to get in some late summer ice!
George Dunn
August 15, 2017
Altiplano & Huayna Potosi (Greg Vernovage)
IMG Guide Luke Reilly checked in from Huayna Potosi Base Camp today reporting ‘all is well’ and that everything went as planned today. They got down to their ride by mid-morning and were in El Alto in time for some pizza and a resupply of rations for their next climb. By early afternoon they were at Base Camp enjoying a little R & R. A very efficient day.
The plan for tomorrow is to get up and moving about 9am and head up to Campamento Argentino, aka high camp. If the weather holds, Luke’s got his sights set on Thursday as their summit day.
Tye Chapman
August 14, 2017
Pequeno Alpamayo (Greg Vernovage)
Luke just checked in from Base Camp after a great climb of Pequeno Alpamayo. The weather was perfect. Not a cloud in the sky and no wind on top for the Team today.
The climb starts off with a short trek to the tongue of the glacier. Once on the glacier, they climb to the first summit where they get a great view of the rest of the climb. From the first summit they down climb some class 3 rock and head across the saddle to the summit ridge. The summit ridge holds your attention and gives you great views to the East and West.
Everyone is back in camp relaxing and getting ready for their first post-summit dinner. Tomorrow, they will get up early, pack camp, have breakfast and trek down two hours to the pickup point. From there, they load the bus and head to Huayna Potosi Base Camp at 15,300 ft.
Great climbing is happening in Bolivia!
Greg Vernovage
August 13. 2017
Pequeno Alpamayo. (Luke Reilly)
Yesterday, Luke and the Team had a nice climb up Pico Austria (17,454 ft). Luke said it was a great day with no wind and clear skies.
Today, the team had a great day out on the glacier brushing up on some fundamentals. They wrapped things up with an early dinner so they could get to bed early, in anticipation of their early morning wake up call. The plan for the entire team is to head out of Base Camp at 4am for the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo.
All members of the Team are ready to take a shot and the weather looks favorable!
All continues to go well in Bolivia!
Greg Vernovage
August 11, 2017
Pequeno Alpamayo/Condoriri Base Camp. (Greg Vernovage)
Luke just checked in from Pequeno Alpamayo Base Camp. The Team broke camp and hit the trail early today and had a great trek up to 15,000 feet. The scenery is always enjoyable as they head up the valley and see the mountains of Pequeno Alpamayo and Condoriri for the first time.
Trekking over the last hill, they are greeted by one of the most beautiful lakes we get to see on the trip. Trout swim in this lake and with any luck, after the summit climb of Pequeno Alpamayo, they will dine on fresh caught trout out of the lake!
Tomorrow, the Team is planning on taking their acclimatization hike to the summit of Pico Austria (17,454ft). Later, they will finish up rigging their harnesses and training for the climb. The weather has been nice and the Team is enjoying their home for the next few days.
All is well in Bolivia!
Greg Vernovage
August 10, 2018
Huayna Potosi (Greg Vernovage)
Luke reported that the Team is doing well and they are on schedule in Bolivia. The Team was up at a reasonable hour this morning, got breakfast and put Copacabana in their rearview mirror.  It is time to fine tune their sights on the Cordillera Real Range. To do this, they will spend one night at an intermediate camp called Tambo Condoriri. This camp is quiet, in fact, I call it an IMG camp because there has never been another team in this location at the same time as IMG. To the left is Condoriri and Pequeno Alpamayo and to the right is the west face of Huayna Potosi.
The afternoon was spent sorting gear and taking an acclimatization hike to around 15,000 ft. “The Team did great and are now ready for some home cooking and a good night sleep,†Luke said.
Tomorrow, the team will wake up, pack up camp and load the donkey’s and llamas for the trek to Condoriri and Pequeno Alpamayo Base Camp. It is a mellow trek with great views up and down the mountain range.
All is well in Bolivia!
Greg Vernovage
August 9, 2017
The dock on Sun Island. (Greg Vernovage)
As scheduled, the Team was up early, heading to the boat for their Sun Island adventure. Lake Titicaca was like glass as they headed out on the cool morning. Once on the island the Team then trekked up through the small village to the summit of Sun Island (13,900 feet). From the top they could see much of the Cordillera Real Mountain Range, including Illimani, way off in the distance.
Lunch was lakeside and included a lot of traditional foods like freshly caught trout, corn, vegetables and a number of different varieties of potatoes. (My personal favorite is the purple one, it tastes like a baked sweet potato).
Back on the boat in time for a little rest at the lodge before a final dinner in town. The Team will be up early tomorrow to head to their first camp at Tambo Condoriri (14,000 feet). With some good weather and staying awake until dark, they might get a great look at the moon rising above the west face of Huayna Potosi.
All is well in Bolivia!
Greg Vernovage
August 9, 2017
No glitches getting to St. Petersburg from Mineralnye Vody and a good time was had there by all. Visiting both Moscow and St. Petersburg really is the only way to do this trip. I doubt most of our climbers plan on returning to Russia any time soon so why not make the absolute most out of your time, money and efforts? In addition to the other ‘stuff’, they squeezed in a visit to the Grand Palace in Peterhof. Fairly impressive.
Last dinner is complete and the team is ready to go their separate ways.  July and August are the best months to be on Elbrus. Remember, visas take a bit of lead time so don’t miss out as you begin planning for your own trip to Russia soon. Thanks to the IMG guides, Igor and Sasha, our Russian guide friends and the biggest thanks to all the climbers who joined us this season on one of three hugely successful expeditions. Thanks, all, for climbing with IMG.
Phil Ershler
