Everest and Lhotse climbers preparing to head up

May 8th, 2024

: Phunuru-demonstrates-the-oxygen-mask-Phunuru-Sherpa

: All-dressed-up-ready-to-go-Phunuru-Sherpa

The fixing Sherpas are aiming to establish the route to the summit of Everest in the next couple of days. Phunuru reports that the IMG climbing team is eager to get started! Today, the team practiced with their oxygen systems and fine-tuned procedures for use at high altitudes in very cold conditions, where all skin must be covered and masks and valves can freeze. The team will head to Camp 1 and Camp 2 in the next couple of days, depending on weather forecasts and the progress of the route fixing. We’ll keep you updated!”

Everest Update – May 6

May 6, 2024

Climber headlamps on Everest by moonlight (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Good news from Everest, the high winds of the past week have subsided and today the fixing team reached the summit of Lhotse, so that route is ready to go. Next up for them is fixing to the summit of Everest, which will hopefully occur in the next couple days. Ang Jangbu reports that today six IMG sherpas carried to Camp 2 and returned to Base Camp along with Sonam Tashi and Lhakpa Nuru who carried yesterday to the South Col in preparation for our summit bids. Lower down, the IMG climbers are moving back to Base Camp and they will all be back by tomorrow after several days of R&R down lower. So far so good at Mt Everest!

Spring Ama Dablam is a wrap

May 4, 2024

: Ama Dablam summit shot (Porter McMichael)

: Climbing along the ridge on Ama Dablam (Porter McMichael)

: On the way to Camp 2.7 on Ama Dablam (Porter McMichael)

: Porter and Giacomo (Ang Jangbu)

Ang Jangbu hiked down to Mingbo to meet up with Porter, Giacomo, Chhiring and Gyaljen. They were tired and happy after their very cool trip up Ama Dablam. It was fun to hear their tales and see some of the nice photos they came back with. Well done team!

Tomorrow their plan is to follow the resting IMG Everest climbers as everyone starts heading back towards Everest Base Camp for the upcoming summit bids. Hopefully the EOA fixing crew will be able to start working above the South Col in the coming days

Ama Dablam Summits!

May 3rd, 2024

Route-above-Camp-2-on-Ama-Dablam-Adam-Clark

The Ama Dablam team played their cards perfectly, ascending yesterday to Camp 2.7 in improving (but not perfect) weather, then enjoyed a perfect day today. They were up at 1am for an alpine start, and were climbing an hour later. The first part of the day was finishing off the top of the Mushroom Ridge, then the steep icy slopes of the Dablam Glacier above. Finally the summit ridge leads to an incredible 360 degree view for the ages. Porter says the conditions were good, with plenty of ice to keep things interesting. Descending from the summit they made it back to Camp 1, where they are spending the night. We look forward to seeing their summit photos when they get down to Mingbo tomorrow and can send them. Congrats to Porter, Giacomo, Chhiring and Gyaljen. Well done Team!

Ama Dablam climbers move up

May 2nd, 2024

Heading for high camp on the upper ridge of Ama Dablam

While the climbers on Everest were pinned down by another windy day up high, lower down the Khumbu valley the Ama Dablam team were able to move up to Camp 2.7. This camp is situated on the ridge between the traditional camps 2 & 3. Porter reports that they are doing OK, and that the wind has dropped off a bit. They’ll see how they are doing in the morning, and make a decision at that time whether to push for the summit.

Windy day on Everest and Ama Dablam

May 1st, 2024

Weather map May 1 2023

It’s the time of the season that everyone starts to pay close attention to the weather reports! Our custom weather forecaster says that the jet stream is moving across the Himalayas, with winds currently over 100 knots at the summit of Everest. Ang Jangbu reports from Everest BC that most of the IMG climbers have descended down to Pangboche for a few days of rest at lower altitude. Up on Everest, we’ve heard that some teams lost their big tents at Camp 2. Our sherpas at Camp 2 have kept our camp from blowing away, thanks to their hard work! Down at Ama Dablam, Porter McMichael says the team had a smooth trip up to Camp 1 today, and that they are tucked in, protected from the wind and doing well, but that up higher it is blasting. Hopefully it will start diminishing tomorrow!

Nepal climbers return to Base Camps

April 29, 2024

: Negotiating the Bergschrund on the Lhotse Face (Justin Merle)

: Approaching Camp 3 on Mount Everest (Phunuru Sherpa)

: IMG Camp 1 (Phunuru Sherpa)

: IMG Camp 2 & Lhotse Face (Phunuru Sherpa)

: Ama Dablam lower ridge (Adam Clark)

The IMG climbers and sherpas on Everest and Ama Dablam are back at Base Camp now, after their respective rotations. The Everest crew tagged Camp 3 yesterday and descended to Camp 2, then descended the Icefall today in the early morning, arriving to Everest Base Camp in time for a late breakfast. Over on Ama Dablam, the team overnighted at Camp 1, then tagged Camp 2, and are now back down to Mingbo Base Camp. Next up for everyone are several well-deserved days of rest.

It has been windy up high on Everest the last couple days, but nonetheless the EOA fixing team has managed to get the route fixed to the South Col, which is great news. Now the various teams will begin stocking Camp 4 for the summit bids.

Everest and Ama Dablam Update

: Climbers-in-the-Western-Cwm-on-the-way-to-Camp-2-with-Everest-and-Lhotse-behind.

: Ang-Jangbu-with-our-Liaison-Officers

: Unloading the helicopter at Mingbo near Ama Dablam Base Camp looking Southeast at Malanphulan and Kang Thari (Porter McMichael)

April 26th, 2024

Ang Jangbu reports that the EOA fixing teams reached the Yellow Band today, so they are making good progress on Lhotse Face. Hopefully they will reach South Col in next couple days. Phunuru and our IMG climbers are doing well at Camp 2, acclimatizing and planning to take a short hike up towards the Lhotse Face tomorrow. We also have a team of sherpas carrying from EBC up to Camp 2 today.

At Everest Base Camp our IMG Liaison Officers Khim Goutam and Suraj Paudyal came up for a visit and to attend a meeting with the various expedition teams called by the Municipality regarding the enforcement of the new rule requiring climbers carry all poop down from the upper mountain. At IMG we have been doing this for many years at Rainier and Denali, so it’s not a big deal for us to comply. We are supportive of the new rules to keep the mountain cleaner.

Down at Ama Dablam, Porter McMichael’s team took an easy day at Mingbo BC, after flying up from Lukla yesterday. Next up for them is an acclimatization lap up to Camps 1 and 2. All’s well in Nepal!

IMG Climbers on the Move!

: Crossing a ladder in the Icefall (Porter McMichael)

: Climbers descending into Camp 1 (Porter McMichael)

: IMG 2024 Everest BC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

April 24th, 2024

Phunuru reports from Camp 1 that the IMG climbers are safe and sound up there, after a smooth trip today up the Icefall. Camp 1 is located among the crevasses above the Icefall, which provides protection to the Camp in case anything comes off the West Shoulder. The climbers will spend two nights at Camp 1 for acclimatization, with a hike up into the Western Cwm scheduled for tomorrow. Higher up, the Camp 2 team got the dining tent erected and that Camp is now ready for occupation. The rope fixing team on the Lhotse Face has been making good progress and IMG senior sherpa Ang Karma climbed up to Camp 3 to claim our campsite there.

Lower down, Porter McMichael and the Mera team flew from Khote back to Lukla, and are enjoying a night of thick air down there. They are scheduled to fly up tomorrow morning to Mingbo Base Camp, at Ama Dablam, where they will continue their alternative acclimatization program with a climb of Ama Dablam, before moving up to Mt Everest. So far so good, everyone is doing well and the team is on schedule.

Mera Summits!

April 22, 2024

: IMG 2024 Team on the summit of Mera Peak (Porter McMichael)

: IMG climbers on the descent from the summit of Mera Peak with Everest & Lhotse in the background (Porter McMichael)

IMG leader Porter McMichael reports that the team got an early start and had a beautiful Mera summit day with great views of Makalu, Lhotse and Everest. They have now descended back to Khare, arriving in time for lunch. Well done team!

Over at EBC the team is taking a rest day. All’s well in Nepal!