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Full Circle: Elizabeth Hawley Passes

January 26th, 2018

Liz Hawley and Her Trusty VW (Eric Simonson)

Liz Hawley and Her Trusty VW (Eric Simonson)

I met Liz in 1979 on my first Himalayan Expedition and she wanted to know everything about what happened.  Since then, I met her dozens and dozens of times in Kathmandu, as I traveled back and forth to Nepal over the years with our climbing teams.  Ever the journalist, Liz was all business in terms of recording expedition details.  When that was done, though, we appreciated that she would open up a bit and allow some talk of the other mountaineering issues of the day.  I was always relieved to know that somebody was paying attention to what climbers were doing, and claiming to be doing.  Facts matter, and Liz was all about the facts.  Nowadays when everyone is their own reporter and they can tell any story they want on the internet, it’s good to know that the legacy of truthful reporting that Liz put in place continues.  Best wishes to Billi Bierling, Richard Salisbury, Jeevan Shrestha, and Rodolphe Popier for all the great work they have done bringing Liz’s Himalayan Database to the world.   From the old days of paper forms and tables completed in pencil, the Himalayan Database now accessible online.  It was her life’s work and she lived to see it come full circle. We’ll miss her.

Eric Simonson

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2019 Everest Dates Released; 2018 Prices Until May 1

January 25, 2018
The views of Everest & the Khumbu Glacier are breathtakingfrom the summit of Kala Pattar. (Tye Chapman)

The views of Everest & the Khumbu Glacier are breathtaking from Kala Pattar. (Tye Chapman)

While the 2018 Everest Expedition hasn’t officially began, we’re happy to report that we’ve already had some strong interest in our 2019 Everest Programs!

The dates are set, but it looks like prices will be going up for the Spring 2019 Everest programs (Everest, Lhotse, Lobuche, EBC Treks). There’s just no way around it. The good news is that for climbers and trekkers who are ready to sign up for 2019 Everest programs, we will be extending the current 2018 prices until May 1, 2018.

Take a look at the dates for our 2019 Everest Programs and give it some thought. Drop us a line if you’re interested!

Tye Chapman
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Time to Head Home

January 22nd, 2018

Heading for the Barn (Peter Bilodeau)
Heading for the Barn (Peter Bilodeau)
Plaza Mulas (Peter Bilodeau)
Plaza Mulas (Peter Bilodeau)

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and crew are at Plaza Mulas, base camp on the Horcones Valley side of Aconcagua.  The summit and traverse are complete and they are down.  Living is large at this lower altitude with Grajales Expeditions, our service provider on Aconcagua (and long term friends) are doing all the cooking.  Life is good.

They’ll do some serious gear sorting and readying loads for the mules.  Tomorrow is the walk out to the road with light packs.  Another ‘gear shuffle’ in Penitentes and then the ride back to Mendoza.  It’ll be a long one tomorrow but no one cares.  These horses are heading for the barn.

We’ll call it a wrap for this expedition.  A safe, successful and fun expedition.  Everyone did their part and gave it all they had.  By any measure, that’s success.

Team 4 finalizes prep in Seattle this week and then meets up in Mendoza this weekend.  Luke Reilly, fresh from a successful Vinson expedition, Jay Lyons and Leandro Villegas will be meeting their team of IMG climbers in Mendoza.

One more time – congratulations to all the climbers and guides on this trip.  Just another great job.

Phil Ershler

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It’s Ice Climbing Season in New England!

January 22nd, 2018

Craig Starting Up the Ice, Willie's Slide (Joe M.)
Craig Starting Up the Ice, Willie’s Slide (Joe M.)
Joe M. Following Up the Route, Willie's Slide (Craig John)
Joe M. Following Up the Route, Willie’s Slide (Craig John)

Our programs are operating out of the Mt. Washington area and in full swing now.

Lead guide Craig John shared some photos taken on Willie’s Slide on Mt. Washington last weekend. A nice long, moderate ice route with great training along the way. Not a bad way to spend a winter’s day!

George Dunn

 

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Aconcagua Team Summits!

January 21, 2018

Just what we wanted (and expected) to hear: the team had a safe and successful climb today. They are all back at high camp. Weather held, and they put one foot in front of the other and got the job done. What can you say except, Congratulations.

View from the top (Peter Bilodeau)

 

As you’ve often read in the IMG posts, Aconcagua is a very physical climb. One of the more demanding. Deceptive because there really are no technical difficulties, but make no mistake, 23,000’ is high. Couple that with two weeks on the mountain, and the cold, windy weather for which Aconcagua is famous, and it all adds up to a real test of a climber’s strength, endurance and just plain old willingness to hurt.

Everyone made good decisions and kept in mind our three priorities: safety, success and enjoyment. This team did well.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team Preparing for Summit Bid

January 20, 2018

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and crew are at C3 — high camp. A little precip today as they moved up but wind is essentially nil. Clouds and no wind actually provides a bit of ‘green house’ effect, making camp fairly comfortable.

The trail is up (photo: Peter Bilodeau)

 

Packing, prepping, eating and drinking going on. Forecast still is MOS for tomorrow. Team is going to take their shot early tomorrow morning. Right decision. Doesn’t make a ton of sense to stay at high camp in good weather. Wind, above all, is the concern on Aconcagua. With winds forecasted to stay at a low ebb through tomorrow, they’ve got to go. We’ll let you know how it all works out. Time to wish them luck.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team at Camp 2

January 19th, 2018

C2 (Peter Bilodeau)

C2 (Peter Bilodeau)

Carry got made to high camp (C3) today.  Everyone currently back together at C2.  Tomorrow’s the final move.  They’ll try to get into C3 relatively early and establish camp.  Best to have as much time as possible to prep for the summit; eat, drink and rest as much as is possible at that altitude.  Forecast (remember, it is just a forecast) calls for winds to be at their lowest ebb on Sunday.  Maybe a little precip but nothing which looks too significant.  Plan is to attempt the summit on Sunday.  They’re putting themselves into a good position so let’s hope all the variables remain as they currently are.

Phil Ershler

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Program Feature: Mt. Khuiten In Western Mongolia

January 18, 2018

Last year we sent IMG Guides Greg Vernovage and Charlotte Austin to far western Mongolia to lead our inaugural Mt. Khuiten expedition. They had a blast! Charlotte, being an adventure writer, couldn’t help but put pen to paper (so to speak). Below is her trip report.  (Before you ask, the 2018 Dates are July 15-27!)

The team! (Charlotte Austin)
Mongolian Eagle Hunter (not to be confused with a hunter of eagles). (Greg Vernovage)
Yup this is a camel. Look at that sky! (Greg Vernovage)

Route to Summit in Red. (Greg Vernovage)
Summit Plateau of Mt Khuiten. (Greg Vernovage)
Happy climbers after a traditional Mongolian dinner. (Greg Vernovage)

By Charlotte Austin

What an adventure! We’re lucky to travel to lots of neat places with IMG, but I have to say that Mongolia has been one of the best. The scenery is mind-blowing, the cultural experience is unbeatable, and the climb was scenic and rewarding. And shoot, when else are you going to go on a camel-supported trek through the Altai Mountains?

Here’s a specific breakdown of this year’s adventure:

Travel days (Seattle to Ulaanbaatar): Long flights, but everything went smoothly. We all watched lots of movies, ate noodles during our layover in Seoul, and arrived in Ulaanbaatar with all of our luggage. The duffel shuffle was successful! We were met at the airport by our local Mongolian guide with a private van and bottled water. He transferred us to the hotel, and we immediately fell into bed.

Ulaanbaatar: After meeting the whole team at our hotel in Ulaanbaatar, we made the best of our short time in Mongolia’s capital city. We toured the Gandan Monastery in the morning, where we were able to see local people performing religious ceremonies and making offerings of bread, milk, and rice. We also visited the National Historical Museum which features lots of cultural displays: costumes, archeological artifacts, even hand-carved jade snuffboxes! Then we hit the Sukhbaatar Square in the city center which features a huge statue of Genghis Khan. Photos taken: approximately one million.

Lunch was a traditional Mongolian meal: lamb, dumplings, and meat soup with a side of milk tea. In the afternoon we enjoyed a one-hour cultural show, which the whole team agreed was a highlight of the trip — there were traditional Mongolian throat singers, dancing troops, and even a contortionist! Then we hit a local restaurant for our official welcome dinner, and the trip was off to a great start.

Travel day (Ulaanbaatar to Olgii): We had a very early wake-up call (4am) to catch our 6:30am flight to Olgii. The flight was smooth, and we were served pickle sandwiches (no, really) by the flight attendants. In Olgii, we met our local drivers, tossed our duffels into our vans and hit the road, or more accurately, the unpaved countryside. It’s a bumpy six-hour drive from Olgii to the trailhead, and we took lots of breaks to stretch our legs, take photos, and enjoy the views. This is a long day, but the whole team agreed that it’s amazing to see so much of the countryside.

Trekking day (trailhead to base camp): After a night in tents at the entrance to the park, the whole team was excited to hit the trails. We broke camp, loaded our duffels onto the camels (!!), and enjoyed a mellow day of walking to base camp. Highlights include brilliant wildflowers, glimpses of local sheep and yaks, and time to chat with our local staff. Base camp is beautiful; it’s nestled into a small valley at the edge of the lateral moraine below Mount Khuiten. Our staff set up tents, a kitchen, and a nice dining set-up, and we made ourselves at home. Elevation is roughly 10,000′.

Training day: On our first full day at base camp, Greg and I took the team out to the base of the Potaniin Glacier to do some basic skills training. We covered cramponing, ice axe use, and rope skills. The team was stoked to get on the glacier, and we came back to camp for a mellow afternoon.

Continue reading…

—Charlotte Austin, IMG Guide

 

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Two Teams are Heading Home

January 18th, 2018

Cerro Aconcagua and the Polish Glacier (Peter Bilodeau)

Cerro Aconcagua and the Polish Glacier (Peter Bilodeau)

 

The Ecuador team is on their way home AND so is the Vinson team.  Heard from Greg this morning and they were literally heading onto the IL 76 for their flight back to Punta Arenas.  Go figure – off the Ice with a great summit and 2 days AHEAD of the best case scenario.  I guess we can’t do much better than that.

Additionally, just got off the sat phone with Nickel from C2 on Aconcagua.  Team did a fine job today with the move.  Camp is established, they’re getting fed and hydrated and making plans for C3 and their summit attempt.  Forecasts show a little precipitation is possible for the next couple of days but then clearing.  Forecasts are just that – forecasts – but the team is doing well and in good position now to take their shot when the mountain says ‘yes’.

Phil Ershler

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Catching Up with Our Teams Down South

January 17th, 2018

Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp (Phil Ershler)
Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp (Phil Ershler)
Trail to C2 (Peter Bilodeau)
Trail to C2 (Peter Bilodeau)
Good Night to Get Back to the Hut (Romulo Cardenas)
Good Night to Get Back to the Hut (Romulo Cardenas)

 

OK, catch up time with all the IMG teams ‘down south’.  Greg, Luke and the Vinson team got down to Vinson base camp yesterday.  No word today so their either still at Vinson base or have moved over to the Union Glacier camp.  Possible flight off the Ice tomorrow.  Has not yet been confirmed but a good possibility.  A second opportunity to fly back to Punta Arenas is on the 20th.  They are in a SUPER position.

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and crew called in after their successful carry to C2 today.  Went well.  Weather was reasonable and the team was strong after their rest day at C1.  Plan is to make the big move tomorrow to C2.  That’s a big milestone as they’ll then be within striking distance of the summit with just one more move.  They’re all performing well.

Emily, Romulo and team have had the best of times together and the worst of climbing conditions.  We’re typically hoping for more snow when heading to Ecuador to climb.  Be careful what you wish for.  Too much snow, at the wrong time, was the issue this year.  The crew really didn’t have a chance on Chimborazo.  Had been snowing hard and was snowing hard when they took off.  You just can’t risk climbing in the avalanche conditions they encountered.  Obvious to all but still disappointing.  Regardless, this trip is coming to an end.  The Team will be catching flights home on Thursday.  Lots of good memories, good new friendships and here’s hoping there will be a ‘rematch’ back in Ecuador for the guys soon.

Phil Ershler

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