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Two Teams are Heading Home

January 18th, 2018

Cerro Aconcagua and the Polish Glacier (Peter Bilodeau)

Cerro Aconcagua and the Polish Glacier (Peter Bilodeau)

 

The Ecuador team is on their way home AND so is the Vinson team.  Heard from Greg this morning and they were literally heading onto the IL 76 for their flight back to Punta Arenas.  Go figure – off the Ice with a great summit and 2 days AHEAD of the best case scenario.  I guess we can’t do much better than that.

Additionally, just got off the sat phone with Nickel from C2 on Aconcagua.  Team did a fine job today with the move.  Camp is established, they’re getting fed and hydrated and making plans for C3 and their summit attempt.  Forecasts show a little precipitation is possible for the next couple of days but then clearing.  Forecasts are just that – forecasts – but the team is doing well and in good position now to take their shot when the mountain says ‘yes’.

Phil Ershler

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Catching Up with Our Teams Down South

January 17th, 2018

Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp (Phil Ershler)
Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp (Phil Ershler)
Trail to C2 (Peter Bilodeau)
Trail to C2 (Peter Bilodeau)
Good Night to Get Back to the Hut (Romulo Cardenas)
Good Night to Get Back to the Hut (Romulo Cardenas)

 

OK, catch up time with all the IMG teams ‘down south’.  Greg, Luke and the Vinson team got down to Vinson base camp yesterday.  No word today so their either still at Vinson base or have moved over to the Union Glacier camp.  Possible flight off the Ice tomorrow.  Has not yet been confirmed but a good possibility.  A second opportunity to fly back to Punta Arenas is on the 20th.  They are in a SUPER position.

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and crew called in after their successful carry to C2 today.  Went well.  Weather was reasonable and the team was strong after their rest day at C1.  Plan is to make the big move tomorrow to C2.  That’s a big milestone as they’ll then be within striking distance of the summit with just one more move.  They’re all performing well.

Emily, Romulo and team have had the best of times together and the worst of climbing conditions.  We’re typically hoping for more snow when heading to Ecuador to climb.  Be careful what you wish for.  Too much snow, at the wrong time, was the issue this year.  The crew really didn’t have a chance on Chimborazo.  Had been snowing hard and was snowing hard when they took off.  You just can’t risk climbing in the avalanche conditions they encountered.  Obvious to all but still disappointing.  Regardless, this trip is coming to an end.  The Team will be catching flights home on Thursday.  Lots of good memories, good new friendships and here’s hoping there will be a ‘rematch’ back in Ecuador for the guys soon.

Phil Ershler

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Nothing But Good News from the Southern Hemisphere

January 15th, 2018

Top of the Bottom of the World (Phil Ershler)
Top of the Bottom of the World (Phil Ershler)
Water fall in Ecuador (Emily Johnston)
Water fall in Ecuador (Emily Johnston)
The Crew in Ecuador (Emily Johnston)
The Crew in Ecuador (Emily Johnston)
Aconcagua Team at C1 (Nickel Wood)
Aconcagua Team at C1 (Nickel Wood)

IMG has some news from each of our teams south of the equator.  First and foremost, Greg Vernovage, Luke Reilly and their team summited Vinson today and have begun their descent.  I spoke with Greg 15 minutes ago.  He said it was a little breezy but folks did well and that they’re beginning their descent.  He’ll check back in tonight once the team has returned to high camp.  Remember, the time everyone uses on Vinson is Chilean time, meaning it’s 5 hours later there than in Seattle.  Also keep in mind that even though they won’t get back to high camp much before midnight, the sun will still be shining and that camp is already established.  They’re doing fine.

Nickel called me just before Greg and said the entire team did a good job today on their move to C1.  C1’s around 16,000’ so that’s a big accomplishment.  They’ll have at least 2 nights, maybe even 3, at that altitude before making the move to C2 and occupying that camp.  Staying healthy and continuing the acclimatization process are the big concerns.  Obviously, there’s work to do but one step at a time is the key right now.

Emily, Romulo and team are just having too much fun in Ecuador.  Some of the crew heads home today and 3 members stay to attempt Chimborazo.  Ecuador is so much more than ‘just’ a climbing trip.  Between spending time with Romulo’s family and meeting some new friends, they also squeezed in a hike today.  Everyone’s hoping the conditions/weather on Chimborazo are favorable.

Nothing but good news right now from the Southern Hemisphere.

Phil Ershler

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All Well in the Southern Hemisphere

January 14, 2018

Let’s get caught up with the comings and goings for IMG teams in the Southern Hemisphere. Report from Emily and Romulo in Ecuador was — close but no cigar. Great morning for climbing but just couldn’t find a way around, over or through the schrund right below the summit of Antisana. Team had a super day on the mountain but just couldn’t quite ring the bell. That’s always a bummer, but I think the amount of fun this team is having makes up for that last couple of hundred feet. Chimborazo is next on their agenda.

Route finding high on Antisana (Emily Johnston)
Experiencing the beauty of Antisana (Emily Johnston)

 

On the way to Vinson C1 (Emily Johnston)

In Antarctica, Greg, Luke and team established Camp 1 on Vinson without problems and are now working on their carry and move to high camp, C2. There’ll be at least one rest day thrown in there somewhere. We try to stick one in after the carry to high camp and before moving up. Once we get to high camp, it’s game day. As soon as the mountain provides a weather opening, the team will take their summit shot. Not quite yet but won’t be long.

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and team have made consistent progress down on Aconcagua. We always take a rest day after reaching base camp. A little time is needed to pack for the upper mountain, and 13,600’ is a great place to get a bit more acclimatization. Plus, Grajales Expeditions, our service provider for the last 30 plus years, is feeding them too much good food.

Team ready to head up the Relinchos River on Aconcagua (Nickel Wood)
Final 2 hours to base camp on Aconcagua (Nickel Wood)

 

Regardless, their first carry with heavier packs is today, as they head towards C1 at just over 16,000’. Always a big test to see how they’re doing.

One step and one day at a time.

Phil Ershler

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Ouray In Style!

January 12, 2018

Good Form! (Eric Remza)
Good Form! (Eric Remza)
Just a Beaut of a Day (Eric Remza)
Just a Beaut of a Day (Eric Remza)
Eric and Don wrapping up Four days in Ouray (Eric Remza)
Eric and Don wrapping up Four days in Ouray (Eric Remza)

 

IMG Lead Guide Eric Remza has been busy in the Ouray Ice Park where conditions have been absolutely perfect. Eric reported good ice forming up and a couple of dustings of snow the last few days. Good temps and great ice make for a heck of an experience. Apparently good enough for Don, Eric’s climber, to send his first WI5 route in good style! Congratulations Don!

We’ll be guiding in Ouray as long as the ice lasts. If you’re looking to improve your technical skills, or just get out and have the most fun day of your life, book your trip!

Robert Jantzen

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Ecuador Team Heads to Antisana

January 12, 2018

Antisana (Phil Ershler)

Antisana (Phil Ershler)

 

Emily texted this morning early, saying the team was packed up and heading to camp on Antisana.  She checked in again once there saying the weather was clear but a tad breezy.  Clouded over a bit in the afternoon with light rain.  That’s more the exception than the rule in Ecuador.  Let’s see what tonight brings.

Antisana is a beautiful peak.  Maybe even the prettiest of the Ecuador volcanoes.  The tricky part from a climbing standpoint is a large ‘schrund which pretty much encircles the mountain just short of the summit.  It can be tough to find a way over/around/through that thing.  Fingers crossed, as always, for the team.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team Settles into Basecamp

January 12, 2018

Above the Relinchos River with Aconcagua and Ameghino in the Distance (Peter Bilodeau)

Above the Relinchos River with Aconcagua and Ameghino in the Distance (Peter Bilodeau)

Quick call via sat phone just came in from our team on Aconcagua.  Everyone’s at base camp, tents are up. Everyone’s doing well and Grajales Expeditions (our service provider) is doing all the cooking.  Nice.  Rest day tomorrow before the first carry to C1.  Still a little precip in the forecast through Sunday but that should work out just fine.

Phil Ershler

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Moving Forward for Our Aconcagua and Ecuador Teams

January 11th, 2018

The End of a Long Climbing Day (Emily Johnston)
The End of a Long Climbing Day (Emily Johnston)
Casa Piedra (Peter Bilodeau)
Casa Piedra (Peter Bilodeau)

 

Fun, fairly straightforward days for our groups in Ecuador and on Aconcagua.  After a night at the thermal baths of Papallacta, the Ecuador team did a little prepping and a little shopping and headed towards Guaytara for the night.  It’s close to Antisana and puts the team in position to head to camp on Antisana tomorrow.

In Argentina, the Aconcagua team put in a good Day 2, as they continued their approach and are now settled in at Casa Piedra for the night.  A little precip but not bad.  Base camp is the objective for tomorrow, at about 13,600 ft.

Phil Ershler

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Weather Has Been Good to the Vinson Team

January 11th, 2018

Twin Otter at Union Glacier (Greg Vernovage)

Twin Otter at Union Glacier (Greg Vernovage)

Let’s get caught up with the team on Vinson.  Everyone understands that flying to the interior of Antarctica can be problematic, at best.  2000 miles (more or less), land on hard ice in an IL 76, then fly another hour in a ski-equipped Twin Otter to Vinson base camp.  What could possibly go wrong?  In the case of our current team —— NOTHING.  Took off exactly on schedule from Punta Arenas, Chile and 6 HOURS LATER were putting up their tents at Vinson base camp.  No way we can do better than that!

Team carried to C1, near 10,000 ft yesterday.  Weather is still good, so they made their move up to C1 today.  Forecast remains favorable.  Doesn’t get much better, currently, than this.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team 3 is on the Move

January 10, 2018

The Team is Ready To Walk! (Nickel Wood)

The Team is Ready To Walk! (Nickel Wood)

 

Word from Nickel, Rikki, Martin and their team is that day one of their approach is now complete.  There’s ‘moisture’ in the area but the group got day one in without getting wet.  That said, they’re expecting some rain tonight and have all the tents up at Pampas Lenas.  Looks like the possibility of precip remains in the area until Sunday.  Perfect.  That’s the day they’ll make their carry to C1.

Phil Ershler

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